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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Lets be clear. No body really puts up a route.. The route is already there, just somebody goes up sticks some metal into it, so you can put sh#t metal or good metal. My question is are ya cheap or just plain stupid. Have fun putting the worst kind of rivet, bolt, drilled hole, what ever you can find in yosemite's fantastic granite. I hope this allows you to prove something to your self , your buddies, and the masses. Go on make a statement, wow your so important if you put some schwag metal in over a longer harder to place, longer lasting, reliable piece. Gee I sure look up to schwag metal boys. Perhaps in the future you could epoxy flattened copper heads onto the rock, sweet sh#t the raaadddddd statement you would be making then, wowzers. What would people say then, you ssooooo hhaaarrrdddd.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Hey Pierre -
Yeah, I think that some of the loose A3+ hooking has also come off very recently, as there was fresh dirt/obvious scar from a section being pulled off and some drilled-out spots from the previous party, (I think). The dirt scar in the A3+ hooking was very fresh, based on this I kinda think they or another very recent party pulled this in additoin to the reachy hook.
The real problem is higer, though, where there used to be a "reachy hook) there is no way around, far as I can tell.
The two heads in the pic are at the beginning of the "loose A3+" (but in solid rock) which moves up and right to the first rivit. These two equalized heads are what the prior party, myself, and addiroids & team rapped from. They are apparently pretty solid. ;)
-Kate.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Clusterbomb: work on the trolling.....
(here is where you come back big and say "I ain't trolling and all you aid guys are blowhard pussies" or something. Then threaten a chopping spree.)
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bspisak
climber
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Sounds like Pierre did the F/A of this new blank section. Therefore, everyone quit your whining, suck it up and hook out right. ;-)
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addiroid
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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dipsack:
The blown hook area is ABOVE the place that Pierre was referring to. He did the hooking out right to get to the three rivets, but it's after the third rivet that stuff is missing (as far as I could see).
and KATE:
"The heads are 'apparently pretty solid'".
Ohh, is that evidenced by the fact that more than one person whipped onto them? :) Yeah, they held my fat butt but then again, I am fairly light compared to you. But that was on a deployed screamer. After that fall I made it to the third rivet and not being able to pass the blank section in question bailed from two equalized rivets. And yes, the area where the heads in the picture are is solid, it's like 3 feet past that that it is breaking off.
And I hope you got the humor in saying that I am "light-duty" compared to ya, not a weight comparison :)
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Clustafairy,
You've obviously been drilled by bad metal!
Chez
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pyro
Social climber
I'm not telling,
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what a waste of time!
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The Dane M
Big Wall climber
Denmark
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Feb 18, 2007 - 06:03am PT
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And now I found the right place to post it:
A friend read about Re-animator in here. And I realized, I better tell the story:
I am the one, who pulled of the reachy hook on Re-Animators 5. pitch.
Sorry, I must be to fat!
In mid-october three Danes were in the Valley. We had 2 1/2 weeks of vacation, so we wanted to do some big Walls. We cruised Mescalito in our usual slow pace and wanted another Wall before we had to work again. The two of us had been in the Valley before (And are even on a photo in the latest Super Topo guide, P.O. Wall, thanks).
THE STORY:
I had placed a big fish-hook on top of the feature and was slowly climbing up my aiders. When my face was in front of the hook the feature I was hooking gave away. I fell and broke the wire around the first rivet. I flipped head down and luckily the second rivet and wire stoped my fall 20 feet down. My elbow got a blow, but was working. I pulled my self together and went back up. I looked for other possibilities, but there were non. I called down for the 6 mm drill (little bit smaller than 1/4"). I then drilled a hole an placed my Talon. I still could not reach the first head in the line, so I drilled another bat hook. From the last bat hook I could reach the head. I kept going up the head corner and placed the one bomber nut that pitch have got. I reached the anker.
At this point my two friends started talking about retreating. I had been climbing, falling, drilling on the pitch for 5 hours, and they were tired and most of all lost motivation. We had only had one day of rest since we climbed Mescalito. We agreed and went down.
But:
 I did NOT break or drill any part of the A3+ hooking. It was scetchy but do-able.
I did pull of the reachy hook feature.
I did PASS it afterwards, on two bat-hooks. Look and you will find them.
Maybe a better climber could have placed only one bathook, but I hope you will forgive me placing two ;-)
One question:
Is that A3 climbing or A4?
One bomber placement in 50 meters.
Climb well
Martin
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Feb 18, 2007 - 01:29pm PT
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The pitch has only one piece that would hold a fall??? I highly doubt that on that route after all these ascents...
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The Dane M
Big Wall climber
Denmark
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Feb 18, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
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Well no, the rivets are bombers as well, if you use the right kind of rivet hanger ;-)
I riped the wire on the first one, but luckily the next one was a little bit different. And that one held my 20 foot fall, so the rivets are bomber, if you use the right hangers.
Some of the heads were also quite big, but I would not like to fall in them.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Feb 18, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
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so what happens now!
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The Dane M
Big Wall climber
Denmark
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Feb 26, 2007 - 04:01pm PT
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Well, somebody will climb it!!!
I passed it, and I am not that good.
But remember keyholehangers or other solid rivetgear, if you want more than one bomber placment on that pitch.
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