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WBraun
climber
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Let me know if field testing is needed.
Hee hee hee .....
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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Come on Werner,
get a groove using human power
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WBraun
climber
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Banquo
Your ideas are always great here.
My post was in response to Mike. as he's probably thinking along with me in reference to Erik S wedge bolts recently added on BOR to be removed.
Keep up the good work .....
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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I thought "get a groove using human power" was pretty funny. My wife has tried to explain humor to me. She says humor doesn't work on the internet.
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Greggonator
Trad climber
Broomfield, CO
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Warbler -
If I understand you correctly you would be putting a lot of pulling force on the bolt while turning it. That sort of torsion breaks the bolt every time for me. That's why I went to a square spacer for the Doodad tool with a square nut on the Acme threaded rod that keeps the whole mess from rotating when you tighten the big nut.
Geir Hundal's Hurley bolt puller can work, too. I don't like the three-point base because it doesn't support the rock in the cone of stress created by the wedge and you could get a dinner plate rock failure. It's also more expensive/difficult to manufacture. (http://www.supertopo.com/photos/28/54/406949_27758_L.jpg);
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Since we are talking about this, I decided to go out to the garage and triy again. This time I used some rock dust and water to help with grinding an edge on the wedge. I think it worked better and I only spent about half as much time spinning at I did last time.
After spinning, I pulled on the bolt until it got tight. It came up maybe 3/8". I knocked it back down and pulled it a couple more times until the sleeve wore out enough so it came out. I did spall some surface off the rock so I probably pulled too hard near the surface. I should have spun longer. I think I should have pulled more gently knocking it in and pulling the sleeve up more times.
Whole thing, including making some rock dust, took about an hour.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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The slurry I mentioned was rock dust and water intended to grind a groove in the wedge.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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One of the reasons you don't want to be twisting a wedge bolt while you are trying to pull it out is that wedge bolts have a design issue which creates a point of weakness. To allow the cone to be placed on the bolt shaft a portion of the shaft has to be less than the overall diameter of the bolt. This narrower section of the bolt is the point of weakness.
If you just want to break off a wedge bolt and patch the hole it is pretty easy, in hard rock!, to just put a breaker bar on the nut and overtighten the bolt until it snaps.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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I'd say that's one successful and speedy first attempt.
Nice work Banquo.
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DanMerrick
Social climber
Mo' Hill, CA
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My latest version of Greg's doodad. The all-thread and hydraulic pullers aren't practical.
Ball screw and nut ~$25 on Ebay
Thrust bearing ~$12
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Bolt studs don't stand a chance against that device!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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really wish I had already built the puller. need one now, won't be back anytime soon to this one-bolt station, and I ducking hate crap wedge bolts in Ss!
it would have to be a one-for-one replacement per the Rules
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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The ASCA received all of John Bachar's bolting gear. The tool he developed in the 1980's to remove bolts is eerily similar to the Hurley, Sr. which was developed a generation later. I guess great minds think alike.
BTW, I was part of the demonstration videos that Steve Grossman posted. What was interesting about the Hurley SR is that Jason Haas, who is using it to remove a Rawl/Powers 5-piece bolt, pulled the bolt and cone right past the sleeve(which stayed in the hole). Now that's a lot of force.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 14, 2018 - 06:03pm PT
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Hey, check your email, eh?
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