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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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LA (John) you are one of the heros I mentioned in my initial post when I started this thread. Thanks for sharing. Talked to some of your buddies at Mustache wall the other day and they said you had recently redpointed some badass climb. I'll be sending good vibes to Annie on her future back surgery. You guys are both an inspiration to me
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
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rgold. I guess you got me on that one. But I'll make amends with full disclosure: (WARNING - the following is very boring and I would suggest you not read it) "Real" Name: John Robinson (Hence johnr9q) Elk Grove, California, Birthday Aug 30, 1944 (Opps, looks like I have a birthday coming up) WW2 vet (or was that Vietnam, Can't recall) Pretty much a sport climber. Occasionally get up an 11a. Used to do a lot of Trad but scares me too much these days and don't want my heart to quit. Health issues: None (I do take statins for cholesterol - before statins mine was total 230, LDL 120, HDL 65. This isn't too bad but my cardiologist said he could would like to see it better and most cardiologists are on statins cause they are a wonder drug. Now it is Total 160, LDL 80, HDL 65). My dad had bypass surgery when he was 58 so don't want to follow in his foot steps. Blood pressure is usually on the low side and pulse rate is good. I also love mountain biking and am taking a hang gliding lesson on the 12th of Sep. (I've always admired birds) Any more disclosures anyone wants and I'll reveal more. Oh yes, been with the same woman for 45 great years. Two daughters that adore me and I them. 5 grandkids. I love to build things like houses and campers etc
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Aug 27, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Your disclosure is refreshing, John.
Your turn, High Fructose Corn Syrup.
(don't hold your breath)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2016 - 08:55am PT
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I know it's not "politically correct" to play the numbers game but, since this is my thread, I will. And also, since it's my thread, my emphasis is on sport climbing levels. We had three of my heros report in (see my original post) and 2 of the three are leading right at 5.13a. Reno/Rifle Herman and Bishop John. John is 72 and Herman is also around 72. Can anyone beat that? (I can't even get close)
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Holy f7k!!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I have mentioned John Fantini in other posts. He is an Aussie who lives in Penticton much of the year and climbs a lot at Skaha. He redpointed his first 5.13 while in his sixties,is probably 70 or 71 now and still climbs 5.12. He hikes 5.11. Makes it look like he is climbing a ladder
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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This has gone on long enough that now I'm 72, with 58 years of climbing logged. Unlike most of the other old folks mentioned, I'm still working full-time, at a job with a 140 mile round-trip commute, so I don't get anything like the kind of time for conditioning and actual climbing that most people my age have. And I don't post with my real name (although it isn't hard to figure out and certainly many people here know it) just to keep a little separation between work and recreation.
I must say I'm in awe of folks who can climb 5.12 or harder at my age, partially because 5.12 trad was the absolute best I ever managed, and not much of that. Although I don't have any ongoing health issues, my hand endurance has steadily declined over the last 5-10 years, making steep hard continuous climbing without rest opportunities harder and harder for me. I do what I can and enjoy it, and am continually experimenting with conditioning protocols to increase hand endurance (but nothing has really had much effect).
I plan to retire at 75 and maybe then I can see if a more full-time conditioning regimen will give me back some of that hanging-on ability! But if not, there's plenty to do at the sub-5.10 trad level I can still manage, so I hope to soldier on.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2016 - 09:55am PT
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So here are the winners so far. (if an item is in a parenthesis, it is approximate - maybe someone can give me the proper info) I won't use full names unless they have be previously disclosed or I have permission.
John From Bishop (5.13a) age 72
Hermann Gollner 5.13a (age 72)
John Fantini (5.12) (age 70)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2016 - 07:48am PT
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As I mentioned in an earlier post I want to do the Triple in Tuolumne free solo (Tenaya, Matthes Crest and Cathedral Peak) and I have it scheduled for July 10. For a warm up, I just did Whitney East Face in a day, free solo, alone. Never saw anyone else in the North Fork Drainage. I was going to come down the Mountaineers route but it looked like it had too much snow so came down the trail instead. It was a long day and I was tired at the end. (I had forgotten how scary and exposed the Fresh Air Traverse and the Tower Traverse are)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2016 - 07:20pm PT
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I turned the triple into the double. I fell on my way from Matthes Crest to Cathedral. Did a summersault and landed on my back. Knocked the wind out of me and out of my sails. Shortly thereafter started vomiting and couldn't hold any water down. Probably didn't get in good enough shape to do all three. I guess sport climbing isn't adequate to prepare for an adventure like that. I read tales of Donini doing long days in the mountains. If I did what he does (based on my previous experience of doing Matthes Crest, East Face of Whitney and attempting the triple all of which, I vomited and didn't feel well and couldn't hold water down) I'd be vomiting my guts out. Maybe some of the problem is altitude, dehydration and not being in proper shape. But anyway, this thread isn't turning out the way I had hoped with me going on about my issues.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jul 26, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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Don't apologize. The debilitation curve gets steeper and steeper with age (from first-hand experience!).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jul 27, 2016 - 12:03am PT
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Gnarly!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jul 27, 2016 - 06:10am PT
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OMG you f'ing old farts. 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, 5.13! F! I'm 53 and really really really happy to climb 5.9. If I can send Jackie (Gunks 5.4+++) on a tight TR at 70 I'll be living large.
I do have a question: How do you fit a harness over those Depends?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 27, 2016 - 07:44am PT
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You're doing the "Seventies is better then Heaven" club proud! I have an advantage over many living at 7,700 ft. In the San Juan Mountains. I like to do fast mountain hikes several days a week. Shorter days I do a minimum of 3,000 vertical, longer days are 5,000 plus. These hikes nearly always take me to 13,000 plus feet.
I hike at a pace that is uncomfortable but manageable and try to hit certain time objectives. The trails in the San Juans are steep.....some averaging over 1,000 vertical feet per mile. In National Parks like the Tetons trails generally aveage only about 650 vertical feet per mile and I can easily average three miles per hour at altitude for multiple miles on those trails going uphill. I generally jog the downhill sections.
About once a week I like to do longish, off trail, enchainments of multiple 13ers which are in abundance where I live. On these hikes I rarely see another human and the terrain is often sketchy enough to require great care.
The bottom line is to keep the engine tuned with regular exercise that PUSHES you. If what you do is comfortable enough to engage in conversation while you are doing it....you are not doing enough.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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If I did as Donini does (live at 7700' and do major mountain hikes a couple of times a week) I would do better at Whitney and Matthes Crest etc. For me to do that would be difficult. I live at sea level and major mountains are distant. I think I will concentrate on sport climbing which is much more convenient for me and when I want to do a mountain excursion I will need to spend a month or so getting in shape. Thanks for the heads up Jim. I wish I could figure out how to avoid dehydration. I force myself to drink on these excursions but usually end up drinking and vomiting what I drank. (probably conditioning?)
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jul 29, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Hi, For a variety of reasons (mostly computer issues) I haven't been on here for a while, but briefly have access to a non-work, functioning computer, did some lurking, saw this thread and decided to check in. I turned 71 a few days ago and am still climbing as much as I can---not well, but try to pack in alot in a day. Like my old friend rgold I am still working full time but am fortunate enough to have a selection of small but good quality crags nearby and a good gym literally on my daily commute so am able to maintain a good level of activity. I'm dealing with a variety of aches and pains and diminishing strength (not that I ever had that much) but, so far, nothing that has stopped me for long and, more significantly, have bounced back from some more serious issues from a few years ago. I also try to get in some road trips--was in El Chorro in Jan, the Red River in April. I'm in Nova Scotia now--a family trip but have hit the little bouldering gym near my hotal a couple of times to keep my hand in. You all inspire me and I hope to keep going as long as I am able. We have a 90+ (Ed Daniels) around here who still climbs, so he gives me something to aspire to.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jul 29, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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Here's a comment that may prove relevant for some of you as you age another eight to ten years beyond the benchmark 70: After tremendous pain due to a badly degenerate lower spine in October I was told to never do upper body exercises again. So I didn't, for seven months. Then in May another surgeon told me he didn't see why I shouldn't do them, so I decided to try to regain a little strength - all of which I had lost. At first all I could do was hang momentarily with no strength to pull up. I was 79.3 years of age. Could I ever regain strength to do a pull-up, much less anything beyond that? Well, now I am able to pop several pull-ups fairly easily plus a tad more. So, yes, even at this advanced age it is possible to gain or regain upper body strength, working slowly and carefully with several days between workouts.
FWIW
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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Thanks jgill, moosedrool and Donini. Those are the kind of posts I was hoping for, encouragement and ideas to keep it up.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 29, 2016 - 11:11pm PT
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John, so glad to hear you've been able to return to the kinds of activities you have enjoyed for most of your life. Best wishes for continued progress!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Hey John, a great inspirational thread. Got to keep moving to keep up with some of these old guys, here's Dick Dorworth at 78 on Spare Rib in the Gallatin Canyon MT a few weeks ago:
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