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JohnnyG
climber
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haha! I slept jammed into the bottom of that chimney once. Miserable night. Good riddance flake!
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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That makes the third major feature I've climbed past that is gone.
Wiesner route at Seneca, the Gendarme, now this.
Fourth, if you count the rotten log.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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ATTENTION
the route Tis-sa-sack has a lot of missing features :(
I climbed the route in 2001 and believe some features are missing!
can we get the park service to fix up that route while were on the subject!!!
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Mongo88
Trad climber
Clinton,CT
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The Gendarme, the Rotten Log and The Old Man of the Mountain, too
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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I haven't climbed the NWF since 1976 or something. When I did it I led a pitch called the Robbins Chimney? Is this correct and is it still there? It was a pain in the ass 5.9 squeeze as I remember.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Honestly- some jobs in Yos are a giant waste of resources
I'm guessing you have not had much experience with our guberment.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Glad I did this route a few years ago with my son, since I wouldn't go back.
I did an early ascent of the Direct NWF, back in 1972, with John Bouchard, and we experienced an enormous rockfall, below us, around 11 PM. We were perched on a ledge, below the visor, and we thought the whole cliff was coming down.
Each time I've been up there, there has been stuff coming off, and I consider the place kind of spooky.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Each time I've been up there, there has been stuff coming off, and I consider the place kind of spooky.
Me, too, Steve. Galen Rowell told me in 1971 (before my first journey there) that he thought it was one of the most active faces in the Park.
John
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MattF
Trad climber
Bend, Or
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I just did the route last spring, and I was thinking of trying to go back and get a free ascent at some point. I was curious exactly what was missing now, so I tried as best as I could to match up the pictures with the Supertopo from the Big Walls 3rd edition I have. Here's my best guess on how much of the route is actually gone based on the topo:
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Imagine being in the midst of the tunnel through when the rock starts a subsonic sighing...
So le_bruce, are you still going to rope-gun me up this thing some day? Bivy at the base? And no more using your superhuman strength to make those blocks loose!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Seriously, a little Sugru and epoxy and the face will be good as knew.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Climbed it on June 4, 2015 and all seemed well...
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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I have. Here's my best guess on how much of the route is actually gone based on the topo:
Yeah, you can still see that corner, but the tension traverse to the start of the 5.7 chimney goes nowhere now! That chimney empties into air.
All of this is gone - you can see how the flake probably burst out about here based on the horizontal crack splitting the apex of the spreading. Nasty P-delta effects going on here. The outward sloping bits above would have fallen right off. You can see some of the remnants above still hanging in the latest photos, though ...
It looks like the entire outer flake on the right fell off, fracturing from the face somewhere just above the tension traverse:
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Strom
Boulder climber
Tiburon, CA
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Here is a video I shot before the rockfall took place. I think the piece that came off can be found around 6:09 to 6:50 in the video. I am glad no one got hurt below on the death slabs or on the route!
https://youtu.be/xxIFoegtMx4
I also found a photo of the ledge that is now missing. Apparently everything next to the main wall with the bolts on it is gone.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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I can't resist thinking about this since I saw those horizontal cracks and the huge displacement at the line partway up P12. I wonder what the NPS geologists think about this as the action that ripped that flake off?
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Leave it to government route-setters to only change a route once every decade and only one pitch at that.
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ruppell
climber
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I'll bet gravity is the action that ripped the flake off the wall.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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God dammit! I was planning on doing it this year. Guess I'm going to have to bring a few dozen bolts, good thing I'm really tall!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mark, damnit, please get the hell out with that calamity science because I'm not open to any line of thinking that renders the future of those three chimney pitches as anything but ultra stable/permanent. Easily some of the best pitches I've ever climbed - you too?
If that whole flake mass that forms those chimneys is going to peel sooner rather than later (read in our life times), someone please get up there and salvage that section of holy splitter off the 12th belay. Aesthetic overdose in me when I see that thing, can't let it get pulverized in the talus, it'd be like losing the Mona Lisa. Perfect splitter leading to perfect airy chimney leading to blue blue sky, all in that setting, ahhh
Nearly shedding a tear thinking about it.
Micronut: if that thing does fall I give you and your new truck a 24 hr window to drive up the Death Slabs, where you'll huck the remnants into the bed and deliver to Oakland for my mantlepiece, deal?
Nutjob: No but we can still go do the ski jump to spireview
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WBraun
climber
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Caltrans is coming to pave a new road up the Regular Route for all the n00bs who are crying ......
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!