Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2005 - 04:09pm PT
|
Mountain Beast\, Aquarium, Sunflower
? do you think that Red Rocks has more stone than Yosemite??????????
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2005 - 08:22pm PT
|
RR might have more rock than Yose....there is so much back in those canyons....tough to tell....
Couple of more comments and routes to add here.....
I finished Climbing Risky Business last spring...the whole thing is absolutly stellar. It's Neighbor, Excellent Adventure is also good, but is not only a step up in Difficulty but also in seriousness.
Climbed a route Largo put up on the Mescalito...The Walker Spur...this route is extremely good. Aboout as close to climbing in the Valley as you can get in RR.
Largo....that bolt is junk!!
Also how would you feel about someone adding a bolt on the first pitch? I'm not planning on doing it, but a certain prominent local thought it would be a good idea....
josh
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
|
|
AH ha the seson is here for red rocks, so in order to keep the crowds dispursed lets keep the list going.
Did unimpeachable groping 7-8p 5.10+ sport with a direct start that was like .10+ too soo dont climb the tree, just bring green yellow and red aliens tye off tree if you need (if I recall you only need teh yellow)it was excelent. Also good was Black Magic. Frigid Air Buttress was awesome, blue bunny was a fun rap up to the day. I was wondering about Clod Tower, and the upper pitches of the Nightcrawler. I am really interested in the Gift of the Wind gods. Any body know what the route to tthe right of power failure is, I recall a bolted beautiful dihedral the upper section seemed less obvious.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
Las Vizzle, on the rizzle
|
|
Nightcrawler tops out no prob. Just keep climbing up. I find TV to be much more enjoyable and interesting than Stilgars.
Someone mentioned Texas Holdem here, and I found it to be pretty uninteresting, except for that hand's pitch which is superb!
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2006 - 02:29am PT
|
bump
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2006 - 05:07am PT
|
Risky Business (as mentioned above), very fun and .. risky just a bit. Last pitch is 10a at most, 5 bolts or so
Rap with one 70m rope.
La Clerta Edad (Strawberry Shubert). Super adventure.
Pitches 2-3 are a quite a bit harder then 9+ or 10a as suggested by the Brock's book. Bring up to #4 camalot
Walk to the right on the large ledge at the top of the pitch 4 (90' or so) and rap Unfinished Symphony (skip 5 and 6, they don't worth it)
Pitch 4 of Triassick Sands, not in the supertaco book but super, indian creek like corner perfect hands
|
|
WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2006 - 12:22pm PT
|
"Healy's Haunted House" is a good route, but be aware that the second pitch begins with a runout that carries great risk.
You rap "Dark Shadows". Excellent route I've done twice. "Lotta Balls Wall" is loaded with excellent routes as is "The Necromancer". "Frogland" is a classic.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2006 - 12:32pm PT
|
Josh wrote: "Climbed a route Largo put up on the Mescalito...The Walker Spur...this route is extremely good. Aboout as close to climbing in the Valley as you can get in RR.
Largo....that bolt is junk!!
Also how would you feel about someone adding a bolt on the first pitch? I'm not planning on doing it, but a certain prominent local thought it would be a good idea...."
Kindly refresh my memory about Walker Spur. I draw a total blank on that one. And what "bolt" are you talking about??
JL
|
|
Moonbluff
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
|
First of all, I'll second a recommendation for any of the following in Red Rock:
Bruja's Brew
Group Therapy
Stilgar's Wild Ride
Black Dagger - the best 5.7 in the park
Frigid Air Buttress
Horndog and Sundog
Spare Rib and Test Tube
Burlesque
Black Orpheus
Nadia's Nine (more like 10a!)
Arrow Place
Community Pillar
And, I'd add to the list:
Peaches 5.9 variant, Children's Crag, Willow Springs, overhanging lieback, burly single pitch
Purblind Pillar (5.8) a new route put up by Karl Wilcox and Joanne U. on Angel Food Wall
Rawlpindi (5.8) next to Birdland, a new route put up by Karl and Heidi Wilcox
The Big Horn (5.8) next to Birdland, single pitch, finger crack crux
Rainbow Buttress (5.8) we did the right side variation - the thin crack in the dihedral. Long day!
Refried Brains (5.9)
Small Purchase (5.9) a good dihedral
Splitting Hares (5.8), a new route next to Next Century
Illusion Crags, south of Windy Peak, has several good routes on quality rock. Use the Swain guide, Brock blew it here. Routes include:
Arm Forces (5.9)
Slight of Hand (5.9)
First Lady of Magic (5.9)
Deez Guys (5.8)
Solar Slab has a couple of good new routes:
Sandstone Overcast (5.8 C1) between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book, quality p1, fun 40' overhang to aid up (thin) on p3.
Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
Heliotrope (5.8R)
MysterZ (5.7) is good, but linking it to Armatron (a new 5.9 on Brownstone) is lovely!
Nevada Book (5.8) is a fun route near Running Man Wall, similar to Great Red Book.
Peanut Butter and Jam (5.9) at Chocolate Rocks is a burly Herbst OW, fun!
Lebanese Jojo (5.9) in Icebox was good until it got retrobolted.
NE Arete of Bridge (5.6) is so so climbing is a stunning setting. Getting there is all the fun.
Intestinal Flu (5.8) is good OW at Sheep Skull, a sandbag.
Take Cat in the Hat to the top of Mescalito. Lots of hiking followed by one more pitch. Descend the same. Beta in the DeAngelo book.
Drat Crack and Goodtime Charlie (both 5.8) next to Gourmet Miel in Icebox were fun single pitch routes.
Atras (5.8) in the gulley to the left of Necromancer in Icebox is a good old school route.
There is definitely good climbing off the beaten path, away from the crowds. Jonny
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2008 - 04:47pm PT
|
Yeah I frigging bailed on the route years ago. Funny because then I went out and did mushroom people. I was scared of the wide, I shoule go back now that I got Keekler under my belt.
I am winderign if any other routes are comming to mind
Primarily I am looking to do a few routes up on Wilson.
So pink tornado right or left to gwondonnaland boogie?
The Women of mountain dreams.
what else i have done Res arete and Inti .
Other routes I am wondering about is the complete Dark Shadows and Cartwright Corner. Clod tower????
????
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
|
Java on the 1st ascent of Mushroom People
One of the coolest things I remember about climbing at RR was "alpine" training on long ridges. Finding one that had ledges every 10-15' with moderate bouldering from ledge to ledge. The crux was knowing or finding a way to get down...it's complicated there.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
|
Secondhand beta alert:
A couple friends of mine did the entire Dark Shadows a couple years ago, they had an old guide and didn't know most people rapped.
They reported the climbing above as very run out, couple of crappy pieces per pitch. Mostly .8 & .9 and less? They also had an epic rappel, but I think if you know the walk off to mescalito you'd be ok.
|
|
Landgolier
climber
the flatness
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
|
Mushroom people is good, don't miss Topless Twins (5.9) and Heavy Spider Karma (5.6 but worth it) left of there. Don't get temped by the easy stuff left of HSK, though, the rock is schitt and they're twice as long as the guides say.
|
|
spectreman
Trad climber
Fort Collins
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2008 - 10:57pm PT
|
The route "Drifting" is absolutely incredible!
Check out the Jungle Wall as well, it has two classic 5.11 pitches.
|
|
Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2008 - 11:00pm PT
|
Peyote Power(5.9) to the right of Dark Shadows is a great climb and a good alternative if Dark Shadows is busy
|
|
Sherri
climber
WA
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2008 - 12:36am PT
|
Landgolier said, "...don't miss Heavy Spider Karma (5.6 but worth it) left of there. Don't get temped by the easy stuff left of HSK, though, the rock is schitt and they're twice as long as the guides say."
Thanks for the heads up on that "easy stuff" left of HSK...I was going to head over there with a couple of non-climbers, thinking they could be entertained by trying a few laps on the easier(sub 5.6)stuff before I took a stab at some of the moderates there.
Maybe not the best place for them to try their shoes out, from the sounds of it. I don't want to freak them(one of them is my mom.)
|
|
SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2008 - 01:00am PT
|
I cant't help myself here.
I love "Group Therapy" like I love a few women in my life. Such a sweet, sweet route. We did it because Tunnel Vison as taken by slow noobs. I swear, I have no regrets.
Group is a mostly easy route with places that make you go "humm" but can be protected and is fun and exposed the whole time. Just one of those routes that allways be favorite of mine forever.
And I just did one of my local favorites, "Festering Crabs" in Arkansas today. Climbed that thing a dozen times and still love it. Do some routes become like an old girlfriend, you just want to do them over and over?
SammyLee
Edit to add, Festering was my first trad lead, and today, I let (so to speak) my good buddy, Demetri, make his first lead on Festering. He did well. good on ya man!
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
|
Sammy what makes it so good? Interestingly enough I have heard similar feedback and I often don't pay much attention to 5.7 routes in RR cause of a)huge horns too eZ and b) low angle chimney/gullies/ledges. But I did enjoy black dagger and olive oil but hated Geranamo.
Fridgid air
|
|
SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
|
It was good for me because I am not such a good climber. The big horns, being less than vertical combined with good exposure made it fun. Plus that chimney near the top adds a little spice. It looks harder than it is which made me feel good about making it.
Also, it was my first multi-pitch climb and my first time at RR. You know how it is with those "First Times" ;-)
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!