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Avery

climber

Jun 23, 2015 - 07:40pm PT

Thanks Clint, I've made the necessary change.

Bldrjac

Ice climber

Boulder

Jun 25, 2015 - 02:35pm PT

Mark,
Thanks so much for giving credit to Jack and Simon....you didn't need to do it, but it would mean a lot to Jack, and means a lot to me. I recall he was very psyched about the ascent of the Denali Diamond (I seem to remember when you and he were corresponding), as he felt it was great that that particular face was getting some interest again, after so long.
Hopefully Simon's book will be ready by Christmas. Their two climbs were incredibly visionary for the times, and it will be cool to see their story (s) put together in one package! Anyway, I have always appreciated your support of Jack and his Alaska climbs........I know he would be grateful, as well.
best,
Pam Roberts

Avery

climber

Jun 25, 2015 - 02:57pm PT

Thanks Pam, I grew up reading about Jack and Simon's colorful exploits. Like you, I'm looking forward to Simon's upcoming book.

I Parnell

climber

Jun 25, 2015 - 03:24pm PT

Sorry to mess up the list having now had a good google - a lot more reliable than my memory - I can confirm that Kenton and I did DD in 2002, in 2001 we did mini moonflower, moonflower and a new thing on Fathers and Sons wall. Sorry for the confusion - it is a long time ago - a least a few lifetimes.

MarkWestman

Trad climber

Talkeetna, Alaska

Jun 25, 2015 - 03:46pm PT

Oh geez Ian, and here I was worried that my memory- usually reliable- was fading.

2002 it is then.

Pam, thank you. Jack left behind a towering legacy which has inspired many of us, and I'm sorry for your loss.
I too look forward to Simon's book, it's going to be great!

Avery

climber

Jun 25, 2015 - 07:44pm PT

Thanks Ian

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Jun 26, 2015 - 04:44am PT

SiCk sTuFf

velvet!

Trad climber

La Cochitaville

Jun 27, 2015 - 03:25pm PT

"American climbers Chantel Astorga and Jewell Lund made the first female ascent of the Denali Diamond, one of Denali's most difficult routes. The pair made the ascent in 5 days after spending 2 weeks acclimatizing at 14K and higher on the West Buttress. They found more rock than usual for this difficult mixed route."

http://www.nps.gov/dena/Field-Report-June-24.htm

yea ladies!!!

Avery

climber

Jun 27, 2015 - 04:24pm PT

Thanks velvet!

Jdizzle

Boulder climber

Lander, wy. Born 1992. student of physics and pain

Jun 30, 2015 - 10:12pm PT

@ Christoph Benells

Jun 17, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
there were a couple parties up there this season trying it.

female team including jewel lund ( who has completed polarchrome, mt. huntington, and deprivation, mt hunter)

and montana badasses keenan waeschle and co., who did french route up hunter's N butt previously this season in an 80 hour push.

Kurt Ross from CO, and myself from WY were on the 80 hr push climbing the french route as a party of 2.(our trip report). Keenan and Dave did not climb the french route with us, but they attempted it the week previously with Kurt. They shared coffee, food, and laughs with us on the glacier. They then went up for an attempt on the Diamond.

@ all: thanks for the beta, this looks like a beautiful route.

and: congrats to Lund and Astorga!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jun 30, 2015 - 11:48pm PT

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-chantel-astorga-jewell-lund-climb-denali-diamond
Story and photos. 4.5 days.
Chantel Astorga has set the women's speed record on the Nose a couple of times:

September 16th 2011 Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga set the women's speed record on the Nose route. Congrats Chantel and Libby! 10 hours and 40 minutes.

New Women's Nose Record by Mayan Smith-Gobat and Chantel Astorga on Sept 23rd [2012] in a time of 7:26. They also were the first all women team to do the HD/EC linkup.
from Hans' site:
http://speedclimb.com/

Avery

climber

Jul 1, 2015 - 12:25am PT

Thanks Clint, for a timely link.

Avery

climber

Jul 1, 2015 - 02:04am PT

Ascents List, Update:

1st Ascent: Bryan Becker and Rolf Graage. 1983: 17 days.

2nd Ascent: Ian Parnell and Kenton Kool. 2002: 5 days.

3rd Ascent: Katsutaka Yokoyama and Fumitaka Ichimura. 2005: 5 days.

4th Ascent: Chris Brazeau and Ian Welsted. 2005: 44 hours bergschrund to summit. (avoided entire upper crux corner due to spindrift by moving left several hundred feet and finishing on terrain on or near to the McCartney-Roberts line)

5th Ascent: Colin Haley and Mark Westman. 2007: 45.5 hours bergschrund to summit.

6th Ascent: Kazuaki Amano, Ryo Masumoto, and Takaai Nagato. 2010: Four days. First free ascent of the route's crux pitch at M7+.

7th Ascent: Chantel Astorga and Jewell Lund. 2015: Five Days. 1st (all) Female Ascent.

Thanks to Mark Westman

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jul 1, 2015 - 11:47am PT

The updated list looks good, except the 2nd ascent is supposed to go back to 2002 now that Ian reviewed it further.
Did you notice that the new Alpinist article linked to this thread? :-)

Avery

climber

Jul 1, 2015 - 03:58pm PT

Thanks Clint, don't know where this thread would be without you.
My observation leaves much to be desired: I didn't notice the Supertopo link.
Still, it shows we must be doing something right!