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NASH
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Probably Cosa Nostra in the valley. FA was Cedar and Ivo. I cant find anything about it being repeated.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Did an obscure OW finish to Vendetta with Chappy.
I've done that one. It's shit!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Glad you liked it Salamanizer! I thought it was great too.....although maybe not a four star classic.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 09:07am PT
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Karma, I hear that's a bitch to rebolt.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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I've often wondered if anyone has repeated "Here On the Inside" (5.11a) a long lieback corner me and Urmas Franosch did on the right edge of Loggerhead Buttress back in 1983? Many routes over there you never hear of anyone doing, such as "Teenage Mutant Blowjobs" (5.10b) or "Mr Happy" (5.10a).
Do people even go up there?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Clint Cummins had the following to say on the "Karma Done Again" [Ken, aka "Chicken Skinner" was kidding in the title] thread:
It's not the "old bolts" that are stopping people from doing the climb.
Roger and I have replaced "old bolts" on many routes, and still nobody is doing them. Example: Greasy But Groovy. It's hard, and slabs are not popular.
The problem is that there are so many other competing routes to do.
This climb has several disadvantages:
both hard free climbing and multiple aid sections (this discourages both free climbers and aid climbers)
long approach
summer heat
supposedly a risk of getting rope cut by the dike in a leader (or follower?) fall
Pretty good guide for finding unrepeated routes.
John
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Apr 10, 2015 - 01:10am PT
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I'd be psyched to hear of someone going up on Cold, Rain and Snow. Sunshine Buttress is a really cool way up to the Diving Board.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Apr 10, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Bruce, I've done Here On The Inside, it was quite nice. I recommend it to friends often. There are some fun climbs up on that buttress.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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RE Loggerhead: Chester the Molester is great. I love that place. Thanks for reminding me about Here on the Inside. Gotta love those FZ-inspired route names!
As for slabs--more folks do them than you might imagine. My buddy did Greasy recently. But Friday the 13th? I looked at that when rapping down Shakey Flakes... Ho boy, shiver me timbers & Get Your Game On!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 10, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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I soloed Moon Patrol over 30 years ago and have never heard of a repeat.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Loggerhead Buttress.... Do people even go up there? Roger and I replaced many bolts up there a couple of years ago.
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richross
Trad climber
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Apr 10, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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Visions of the Emerald Beyond 5.12 FA 1979.
In a restricted area the less said the better.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 10, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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E Robinson:
I'd be psyched to hear of someone going up on Cold, Rain and Snow. Sunshine Buttress is a really cool way up to the Diving Board.
I scrambled up to near the base recently during a non-climbing visit. My multi-year obsession with this line continues. Now I've got the approach sussed. Maybe this summer.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 10, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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richross -- Visions of the Emerald Beyond 5.12 FA 1979.
Whoa .... looks bad ass.
Looks terrifying.
Looks real good!!!
:-)
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Apr 11, 2015 - 04:28am PT
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Le_Bruce...hope you get up there to do the route. I remember it as good fun in a great place.
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ruppell
climber
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Apr 11, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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Warbler
Hiked the base a few years ago after doing a what I think was a mostly new route on Star King. It looks pretty hard at the start. But those cracks higher up look pretty sweet. Didn't have the time to get on it that trip but it's on the list.
As for that route on Star King, I'm pretty sure it hasn't seen a second ascent. We started abut half way between West Face and West Flakes. Went pretty much straight up from there. If anyone gets the second ascent I left a fixed #5 Dmm peanut at about 10 feet below the crux. No bolts where placed. I'd guess it's 5.9+.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 11, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Predict the date when there will be more routes looking for a second ascent then routes waiting for a first ascent.
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ruppell
climber
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Apr 11, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Donini,
Never.
Warbler,
Are both bolts on the first pitch? Trying to access the memory of it. I remember a thin crack/seem for about 40 feet or so leading to what appears to be easier climbing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 11, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Kevin....I'm heading to the Creek in an hour. I have plenty of water and cams. Be there for your climbing assignment at morning formation. That's an order private!
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