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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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One I use with my wife when the occasion calls for it:
"Methinks the lady doth protest too much!"
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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How much weed is in a "lid"? quarter ounce?
and when did that unit of measurement vanish from the vernacular?
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Gene
climber
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
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How much weed is in a "lid"? quarter ounce?
A bit more methinks. It also depends if it's a three or four finger lid.
Haven't heard lid in that regard in a very long time.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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Isn't a 4 finger lid a 1/2 oz?
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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I don't know how much weed was I a lid, but I knew one when I saw one.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
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When Colombian showed up is when we started weighing it up. It was always about 1/4 pounds and 1/4 ounces. Pounds were called elbows.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:47pm PT
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I recall a brick with an old tennis shoe and two spark plugs imbedded within for extra weight.
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Lanthade
climber
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Feb 24, 2015 - 11:44pm PT
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I've always been fond of the Conn's retable.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 11:47pm PT
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Ranger danger to the maxloads.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 25, 2015 - 12:07am PT
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Gill: "swinging lieback."
Recipe for endless fun on overhanging SE sandstone - my idea of mo' monkey. The only thing better is any swinging which results in climbing with your feet higher than your head. God I love that...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 25, 2015 - 05:56am PT
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From Steve Grossman in the thread http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=522822&tn=20 , the shot of Gaston (on the right) the gave rise to the nomenclature. Leavittation had not yet been invented, but wide stiff mountain boots made up for that.
Some tiltage seems to have been applied to the photos, especially to the left-hand shot.
I agree that it was Gill who heaped enough scorn on the lunge to create the fertile conditions for a more elegant replacement. Of course, the adjustment in linguistics could not, and has not, brought elegance to the activity itself, and on any given day one can see climbers lunging with all the ungainliness of their predecessors.
From Wikipedia, that unimpeachable source of all things known, comes the following description:
"The English term "redpoint" is derived from the German Rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. He would paint a red X on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot- or handhold. Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways, this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later."
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Feb 25, 2015 - 06:22am PT
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shralping is to climbing as shredding is to sking
Hi Craig
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Feb 25, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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The sooner "gnar" becomes archaic the sooner the world becomes a better place.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 25, 2015 - 08:26am PT
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Hey PB! Doesn't that apply to your old E99's as opposed to your current 5.10's? I could be wrong? Happy days to you!!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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in early 70's san diego a lid was as much as you could cram into a baggie and still fold the top over. It was always $10. A good key made about 30 lids, and some of those keys were so compacted you had to tear them apart.
We used to have breaking parties where 3 or 4 of us would fill baggies and get high. Tons of seeds and sticks went into the bags but we left the really big stuff out. Had to smoke lots of joints to get high. We never weighed lids, and no weight was expected. You paid $10 and got a bag of weed. In the mid 70's "gold" came out for $15 a lid, and the lids were smaller. I never saw a weight other than kilo until sin semillion came out around 1980, and that sold by the gram. Hash oil was always around, and you could buy an oiler (hash oil soaked joint) for $5 that would obliterate 2 people. It was a different world back then. We could have never imagined the hydroponic killer strains we have today. These kids really know their weed.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
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Now what I'd like to know is the origin of all the "points." redpoint = "rotpunkt" originated in the Frankenjura (Germany).
When climbs were done that had been led free in yoyo style,
a red circle "rotkreis" was painted (with nail polish) next to the climb name at the base of the wall.
It denoted a free ascent which was not in the highest style.
Then if someone was able to lead a rotkreis climb free, placing all non-fixed gear during the lead, they were expected to paint in the center of the red circle.
Thus adding the red point to the circle.
Or if the route was FFAed that way without yoyo, the filled circle was used.
I've seen a photo of John Bachar with paintbrush, doing it for "Ensafter", I think.
http://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/poi/9024
He had a somewhat disapproving expression his face -
I don't think he liked the idea of painting the rock. :-)
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/kurt-albert-the-climber-who-invented-redpointing
http://thestonemind.com/2012/07/24/the-rotpunkt-method/
http://thrillseekersanonymous.com/demo/meeting-redpoints-birthplace/
Later, "pinkpoint" was invented for leads with *all* gear (draws, cams, etc.) was left in place (or fixed, or preplaced that day),
but the rope is not left up through the high point like a yoyo.
Later still, people changed the definition of "redpoint" to really mean "pinkpoint",
probably because of the popular crags which were very steep and/or had fixed quickdraws.
So it would be quite a hassle to clean the draws between strict redpoint attempts.
When this change of definition occurred, many people found they could suddenly "redpoint" a couple of letter grades harder than before. :-)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 25, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
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Piano (verb) ... gradually replacing one hand with the other, a finger at a time.
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John Morton
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:54am PT
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There's another "point": the teaching concept of "three point contact", i.e. at least 3 of your 4 extremities on the rock at all times, for a secure stance. I think this originates with Robert Underhill pre-WWII, and is typically conservative. Interesting to think that one should need to teach something so obvious.
Underhill would have been aghast at a lunge, which is zero point contact. He would also been aghast at Supertopo, where some might ask whether a climber (a man, at any rate) has 5 extremities, and whether any 3 would qualify.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:56am PT
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"the leader never falls"
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