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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 22, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
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What if Superman fought The Flash? I would think The Flash would be able to run to get to some kryptonite, but then isn't Superman just as fast??? Superman would TOTALLY kick his ass!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 22, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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So Ondra flashed or one hung all those pitches, many 5.14?! In a day??
I think he could do the Dawn wall quickly if he cared to.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jan 22, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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smokey got it right
yeah, the nitpickers love to come out of their cave to "debate" the FFA.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 22, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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Exactly Jebus, exactly.
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 22, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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I did have a question of why ,on the traverse of pitches 14 and 15, they broke it into 2 pitches of 50 and 90 feet, instead of one long pitch.
Is there a natural stance at the pitch 14 belay or is it too sustained to do in one go?
There are probably sling belays elsewhere on the route.
They did a lot of belaying from porta ledges.
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
47N 122W
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Jan 22, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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Wow,I got tooled; I am so upset I think I am gonna cry in my beer about days long gone past. Drink the Grape-flavored Kool-Aid if you must. Hasta Superbaby!
EDIT: I Don't really care if they used a ladder to climb the thing I just don't want to have to read about it in one of those dang climbing magazines.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 22, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
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Sarcasm Jebus?! Well I never!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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It's fun to break others achievements down with a microscope - not so much for our own. Trying to de-legitimize their ascent while you got pix jumaring 10B (something I've done as well)... Not a good move ;)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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All you punks got trolled by the anti troll, RB.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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Superbaby!!!!11!!!
EDIT: See ya KOOK!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:49pm PT
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All you punks got trolled by the anti troll, RB.
You guys know I love you ;D
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
47N 122W
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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^^^ thanks Jefe ...
Some people don't understand my dry sarcastic humor and may not realize that I am OK with the criticism and all. For those who don't know me, I am a pretty straight shooter; I say it like I see it and I won't sugarcoat it either.
But I am who I am, and I didn't mean to "disrespect" the climbing effort.
The Boys pulled hard, I said that in my first post, but I also lamented on the purist side of climbing. Pulling hard on a big wall, no matter how you climb it is an accomplishment in itself.
I analyze things and break them down into basic elements ... it's the curse that I must bear.
Well, enough said ... Peace on fellow 'topians.
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clockclimb
Trad climber
Orem, Utah
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Jan 22, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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^^^^^^Refreshing to see someone who can take some pretty sharp criticism without melting down. Take notice.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
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What KJ and TC both accomplished is a 19-day ascent, and they deserve credit in history and bragging rights for what they accomplished -- by piecing together (rope-bouldering) all the moves of an extremely difficult 2900-ft El Cap aid line, and free variations thereof. But it is not “Free Climbing” … it’s bouldering with a rope on a big-wall using aid. They used siege tactics, had assistance from others, previewed, rehearsed and preplaced protection and ultimately fell multiple times and weighted gear. The style they used is best described as a rehearsed, big-wall rope-bouldering ascent using aid (because they weighted their equipment/ropes – which by definition make it 6th class or “Aid.”) It’s really, as simple as that. – the ascent is not exactly the purist definition of a first free ascent (FFA) style -- such as the enviable “on-sight flash, no falls, no hangs.” And while this story is culturally significant, they are not the first in history to claim or accomplish this on El Cap.
Very eloquent . . . probably the purest description of the ascent style.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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RB, we have more in common than you think. Respect your opinion, but don't totally agree. And that's ok. Unfortunately neither of us were up there climbing and the real reason many of us are on this forum is because we love climbing. I'm not here to be a dick to other guys. All the best to you and everyone else. No more about Dawn wall from me. Screw this topic.
PS: I would be the last one buying a magazine to read about it.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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“on-sight flash, no falls, no hangs.”
TC and KJ worked most of the pitches on the route. No biggee since this was a very hard climb. But, having worked the pitches they don't get an "on-sight flash."
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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That rig could go 5.9 A2 no problem.
Hell Grossman could do it with just micro wires all clean
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 22, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
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Hey my apologies Jebus,
I had something to do for a sec but Hadn't forgot about you here in fantasy land.
So for fantasy's sake let's say this all takes place 5 or so years from now.
Once he's done establishing the worlds first 15.d Ondra finally hears about the hardest record big wall free climb in the world which is still unreapeated.
He wonders how he could have missed this on 8a and checks it out only to see that the hardest pitch is more than a full number grade below his rising limit and a grade he onsights most days before lunch.
He thinks for a second about how nice it would be if America would hurry up and get around to installing some more challenging routes, it's 2020 after all, but he figures it will be a fun outing with his gf while taking a few rest days from riding roller coasters on his upcoming Disneyland vacation.
So he rolls into the valley with a 1000m rope, Mickey mouse club helmet, and 240 or so quickdraws and proceeds to slide on his sportiva futura slippers and onsight all the way to the crux traverse where he slips off the end.
The swinging pendulum fall combined with Ondras screaming and flailing limbs causes many tourists with binoculars to panic and report to the Rangers a potential mountain lion caught swinging by its tail in one of the fissures up on the mountain. Werner is sent to investigate.
He ends up jumping back on and one hanging it in a single pitch, thus proving the route stands the test of time.
Then something amazing happens! A somewhat disappointed Ondra goes back to the awanhee with sore toes and gets online, somehow he reaches the highest levels of world of war craft later the next evening in a single push, something that has never been done before! Major news outlets descend and the Valley becomes a circus like never before. Ondra is signed to a 500 million $ contract by Sony and gets his own starring role in a remake of blame it on the bellboy as the new Balky Bartholemus.
Thus finding his own dawn wall, Ondra is finally satisfied, feeling as though America gave him the opportunity to progress and the free wifi to do that which he was meant for, which is all that really matters in fantasyland as well as real life most of the time.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 23, 2015 - 07:54am PT
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What? No sex, drugs, or big ass explosions in your fantasy Ryan? Oh I see you went the World of Warcraft route, yeah guess those things wouldn't belong there.
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JohnnyG
climber
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Jan 23, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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Can we make a bumper sticker for the haters to buy and be done with it?
Something like "Dawn Wall is neither"?
hahaha that is awesome. Yes, it really should have been called the "Dusk Wall" considering when they climbed it.
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