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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
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Calaveras Dome area
3 Topos of Bonzai - I believe the 1st is original - note the different names at the top & then how the spelling of Bonzai changes later
Happy New Year!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Bob.
You are right - most of them are by Jay Smith, but some have an added climb
and some were by another person (maybe Ron Felton; I have other topos from him so I can check).
Several of these I haven't seen before, but I see where they fit on the crags.
It should be fun figuring out who C.M., J.B. and R.G. are!
(I suspect R.G. = Randy Grandstaff, because he did a climb with Jay at Hammer Dome in 1980).
Thanks again for sharing.
I'll definitely repost them on my site.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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And that is all of them!
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Pinckbrown:
I did the "Monk Rock" tunnel back in the late 70's, but went in from the trail-side. That was many years and many pounds ago. I looked at it last summer and I know I wouldn't fit through it now...
Eric Barrett
Ghoulwe Mtnrg Club
Spokane, WA
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Great thread. A gold mine. Thanks for posting!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Hey Bob, it's nice to see a thread like this go up in the forum, in contrast to the political BS. And it brings into perspective for a noob like myself just what a privilege it is to climb with you guys. Thanks.
John
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Hard to digest so much great info- outstanding signal to noise ratio!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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The sheer volume of hard bold climbs Jay Smith put up in the Tahoe Region is amazing. Just wish he added a bolt or two here and there for us mortals, I suppose that's what rope guns are for :^)
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Jon Taylor
Trad climber
Gardnerville
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here are some pictures of bear creek at the time...
Indian Rock
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Its not just Tahoe Charlie. Jay's got many FA's from the top of North America to the tip of South America, asia, antarctica, probably on all the continents. He's like a Fred Becky on steroids with an unlimited free airline pass. I remember introducing him to a non climbing freind in 1976 as one of the best climbers in the country. Being modest he objected to this description, but the truth be told, he was among the very best climbers even then.
Taylor, you old dog. Where you been hiding out? I've got some fa death leads for you with your name written all over them. Your ex GF and I did a couple FA's just opposite thise pictured routes in 77.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Indeed Rick, he has an impressive resume to say the least. One of the greatest climbers/alpinist to come out of California IMHO.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jon, cool photos - thanks for sharing.
Rick, do you have FA info for Old Crow and other stuff on the west side of Bear River?
Or for these east side routes?
5. Bear River - Regular Route
10. Bear River - Direct
The other mystery (to me) is where these routes are (listed in FA list but not on topos):
14. Snickers FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 9/82
15. Adventures in Paradise FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, Paul Obanheim, by 9/82 ?
(I added Bear River to my Cal Domes page, as it's so close)
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/index.htm
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Adventures in Paradise is located about 150' left of "The Only Solution" on that same dome. Crawford told me where that one was. I believe it's two pitches, maybe a short third. The anchor bolts have nearly rusted off and all the bolts need replaced. I gave it a quick look over when putting up a new route 40 or so ft to it's left this summer.
I Re-bolted Abba-Zabba a few years ago or maybe another route just to it's left. It was two bolts w/ some gear to a two bolt anchor. Jays topo doesn't show an anchor but it looks to be the same route.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Chad. It looks like an interesting area.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Well Clint, its been 38 years and the two routes I did were not that memorable. The only thing I remember distinctly was they were about 5.7 and 5.9 and seeing as how I had neither bolts or pins along they seemed a bit runout between features. Both were 2 or so pitches. Of the other established routes I know little to none.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Rick. I was just checking in case there was something unusual.
Of course it doesn't always turn out that way. :-)
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Jon Taylor
Trad climber
Gardnerville
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Sumner:::Thought you were dead. What did you do with my old GF BTW...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Well Taylor, I can tell you we didn't go swimming. The water coming out of the bottom of that reservoir is as cold as the polar bear plunge in AK. Carol was always a freind and only a freind. Let's go climbing ya old maroon.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Hey, Bob, this is quite the find! I think folks heading up to Blue Wind on the Lower Buttress at the Leap and expecting to find 5.9 climbing are going to be in for a BIG surprise--heh, heh.
I don't know if you remember me, but I was a good friend of Reiner and Clancey back in the day. I think we did a few climbs together at the Leap. You and Clancey and I were together when the cop tooled you on the drive home, claiming you were drunk but were way more than stone cold sober. Did you have long hair then? Actually ran into Clance last year at the Leap, first time seeing him in over 20 years. Time do fly, don't it? BTW, my real name is Scott.
Be well, and find a good place for those golden oldies. Great find.
BAd
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I remember years ago after mentioning to Petch our days plans which included doing a warm up on Blue Wind before heading up to the Main Wall. His exact words were "Blue Wind is NOT a warm up, it's a GOAL".
He wasn't kidding.
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