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wivanoff
Trad climber
CT
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Dec 30, 2014 - 06:23am PT
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That tugging hard on the climber's side of the rope negates the camming effect is also new information to me.
I have to vehemently disagree with that. The tugging works just fine. You just do the tug before they leave the ground, with some slack in the system. Once you're sure the device is solid the cam will rebound back.
I think you two are talking about two different things.
I understood that tugging hard on the climber's side of the rope AWAY from the GriGri to check it's operation is a "goodthing". Tugging hard on the climber's side of the rope TOWARDS the GriGri is what negates the camming effect and is a "badthing".
I'm not a GriGri user. Am I misunderstanding?
Edit: OK. From Petzl video on using the GriGri "If you grip the climber's side of the rope too tightly, you run the risk of reducing or even negating the grigri's braking ability."
Relavant MP thread http://www.mountainproject.com/v/another-accident-due-to-mis-use-of-the-gri-gri/109869225__1
Sorry for getting off topic. I hope Jim Ewing heals up quickly.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 30, 2014 - 07:37am PT
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I believe you have it correct.
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:00am PT
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6-8 hours of surgery on the menu today. Send this beast, Jim.
I remember hearing stories of Jim before meeting him, both stories of the climber and the humble person run through NE climbing circles. Stories can’t stand up to the real deal with Jim, but this is a good place for them. Here is a short one:
Chiloe introduced me to Jim and Cathy for the first time at Rumney, pre-Maxine (they had a greyhound at the time = “we aren’t parents yet, so we’ll love this dog like a kid”). Larry and I were taking turns on Barking Spiders (I’m sure I was hanging at the crux, as per usual) and there were a couple teenagers flailing on Valley Daze, which I think at the time was rated 11d but has since been upgraded to 12a (and seems to still have a sandbag reputation when I checked on MP).
The kids eventually lowered off leaving a carabiner, and a series of excuses. Apparently, the key hold had broken off and the climb was most definitely not send-able.
As they were pulling their rope, Cathy and Jim walked up. Listening to the repeating story of the broken hold, Jim asked if he could give it a go to check out the damage – I really think he was genuinely interested in seeing the broken hold more than climbing the climb. Those who’ve climb with Jim will relate to what I watched = poised, methodical (if not slow) moves with lots of looking at the rock and careful brushing with his finger tips as if on some geological or archeological exploration…and continuing whatever conversation we’d started and would have stopped long ago for most leaders. He climbed to the carabiner, looked at the “broken key hold”, brushed at it and around it, and generously without a hint of arrogance said something to the effect of “yeah, definitely, looks like something broke off here.” Then, he clipped, made a graceful move to the next hold, and finished his on-sight, continuing the conversation about the health of the planet or whatever.
It would be years later that me and my girls really got to know and spend time with Jim, Cathy, and Maxine. Of his admirable traits, the one standing out well above his gift for hard climbing is his love for Maxine and Cathy; and, as a family, they are second to none = loving, generous, and always up for fun. And, we can’t wait to get their asses back to NE to love them up, proper.
Send this beast, Jim.
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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stolen from the OP of the then came a photo thread (emac photog for the second?)
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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Jim and Maxine.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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Grigri safety deserves much thought and discussion of course, but maybe not right now in this thread? Supertopo has many other rooms.
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emac
climber
New Hampshire
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Dec 30, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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Thanks for the story, cowpoke. That is so genuinely Jim!
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angelcayman
Mountain climber
George Town
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Dec 30, 2014 - 10:59am PT
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I was on the same crag a week before the incident, I live in Grand Cayman, Brac sister island. The bolds in the Brac has been replace for titanium, making it is super safe and solid.
It was on Cayman 27 TV news as well, all the climbers in Cayman was very worry about Jim and what happen, we are sending our love to him and his family and wishing a fast recovery.
But just wonder if the grigri was using reversed? if not, you need to report to incident to petzl.
Peace & Love
Angel
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 30, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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hey there say, angelcayman...
say, as to this quote:
It was on Cayman 27 TV news as well, all the climbers in Cayman was very worry about Jim and what happen, we are sending our love to him and his family and wishing a fast recovery.
THIS is what i love so much about the climber community, from all over the world:
the deep care and concern for others, that get injured or fallen into troubles, ... hearing the news, leads to real care and compassion and not just 'some sensation' as it seems to pushed, to do, by many media systems...
thank you for sharing a look, in to this kindness of the community...
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 30, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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Sounds like a hard hit. Don't want to needlessly ramble about Grigris, just want to say: wishing you quick and full healing Jim.
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Jim E
climber
away
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
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hi everyone and happy new year. trying to dose off after stuffing my face with a big yummy burrito.
thanks for all the well wishes, healing thoughts, and prayers.
I get another surgery on Monday to fix my wrist and or ankle a little bit more.
what we are struggling with, at the moment. is the logistics of getting me and the armada of medical equipment from Florida to Maine. if anyone has experience in this area please let us know.
again, thanks for all the positve thoughts.
cheers,
jim
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
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great to "hear" your voice, Jim!
best healing thoughts are flowing your way...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
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hey there say, jim... happy new year, back to you...
praying for a good trip, back home... :)
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jim there is a branch of the Cleveland Clinic in Florida?. The Cleveland Clinic is a A+ ,
In the top five or six in the nation for most needs. Make lemonade and get their opinion.
They would be the best informed on ambulette service, and how all that works.
When you are in their system medical transport should be routine for them.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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The ultimate rule with Grigri's is that you do not treat any different the atc's etc. I've used them for twenty years, caught ton's falls, and never dropped anyone.
Yes! But we were having this discussion on the "attractive belayer" thread. Not here please.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Message received, understood.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jim- never met ya but glad to see you are back and posting up. Heal up fast.
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emac
climber
New Hampshire
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Let's get Jim Ewing home to Maine!
Jim has been a long time figure in New England climbing, and on this board as 'wootles' also. As Cathy noted, he has undergone multiple surgeries with a couple still to go. Unfortunately, his travel home is considered non-medical so insurance won't help... and he must be transported prone in a hospital bed. The out of pocket costs have been estimated between $6,000 (van) and over $18,000 (air ambulance), and I've spent all day trying to squirrel out options and favors. A gofundme fundraiser account has been setup by Sam Morton (a co-worker) so that friends and family can help bring Jim home. Jim has contributed so much to the climbing community -- whether in person, online through his rope engineering expertise or through one of the many routes and crags he has pioneered. Please consider contributing:
https://www.gofundme.com/jimewing
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Worthy bump!
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