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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
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Alex just rapped down to scope out the hard pitch for the 2nd ascent...solo.
JK/LOL ;-)
Great work Gentlemen!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 30, 2014 - 04:02am PT
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climb ! Stoke Isee climb at night (Barrels? like the original fuel?)
or batten down there is a storm!
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kshenk
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Dec 30, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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More details on day 3 / p10:
Wonder what Pitch 10 looks like? Here's a great shot from Brett Lowell of Big UP Productions.
Day 3 was supposed to be a rest day, but there's some seriously cold and windy weather on the horizon. So, we decided to push through the fatigue left over from pitches 1-9 and climb today anyway.
The goal was simple. Pitch 10, 5.14a.
50' of two finger pin scar lie backing protected by 7 consecutive beaks leads to a 20' permanently wet section for both hands and feet. Nails. After a good rest where you can dry your hands and shoes, you climb 35' of 5.12 terrain. This all leads up to a crux undercling boulder problem capped by a nerve wracking, tenuous face traverse to the anchors (pictured).
After 3 attempts each, Tommy Caldwell and I both sent. Now for a rest day! from
http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson?fref=nf
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
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wow... and that's not even the crux. Unbelievable!! I have a feeling that they are going to do it this time!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 31, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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That lower picture of the portaledges shows that they went straight up on the Dawn Wall, or even left of it, instead of climbing that right leaning crack that leads to the molar.
Or they may just be bivying there because it is a good safe spot.
Is there any news?
edit: I just checked Kevin's Facebook Page and they took a rest day. They are probably climbing again right now.
Rough rest day on the wall....watchin Netflix 1,200 feet up El Cap....
He has posted a few goodies, if you are on FB:
https://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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They have ropes all over the wall to move around. The actual route does, I believe, go up the right leaning crack to the Molar. If you check Tom's El Cap Report, you can see some shots Tommy climbing through the obvious wet streak in that leaning crack.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:26am PT
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Rough rest day on the wall....watchin Netflix 1,200 feet up El Cap....
Why not just get down and hang out in the Valley? They have the whole El Cap fixed with dozens of different people coming up to take videos, bringing food/water and to hang out.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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I believe they are trying to do a continuous push and not come back to the valley floor until it is done?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I was just out there in El cap meadow.
Eric was the only guy out there.
Man oh man is it cold and windy to boot.
Freezing ass cold .....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 31, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
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The rules of big wall free climbing make about as much sense as the rules of Tennis : /
15-love!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Kevin
Eric said these guys are resting today.
Me I would have run away to to the heater.
My room is nice 80 degrees right now ..... aaaahhhhh so nice :-)
Tomorrow they will attack again?
I'll go to the cookie and do one pitch and then finished.
Old man can't do sh!t when it's this cold.
The river is freezing solid.
I think their anchors are gonna freeze and crumble.
They might have a blow torch up there to keep the anchors warm?
I asked Eric where's Tom. Tom's hiding in the cafe.
Pussy ... hee hee
Anyways Happy New Year bro ........
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sempervirens
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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A page or two back there is a brief mention that this project must be done in cold weather. Why?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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So your hands don't sweat, the rock is clean from airborne pollutants (after the rains), your shoe rubber is at it tackiest point.
Although if it's too cold maybe then it won't work so well?
Better ask those guys up there, holler up to em.
They would know what's working the best right now.
I only know one thing.
It's way too cold and windy today ...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 31, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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This particular wall is quite hot a lot of the year and rubber is stiffer when cold and thus better on all the micro-edges they are using. You hands won't be sweating much either. I would think too, there aren't regular parties going up the routes of this zone on El Cap.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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I'm guessing that the topo we are all looking at needs an update, seeing as the topo Clint re-posted (which went public a year or two ago) says pitch 11 goes at 12+, but Tom's El Cap Report (thanks Tom!) lists the 11th pitch, which went down today, at 13c. That's quite a difference. Maybe the belay was moved, changing the difficulty of the pitch?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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the topo Clint re-posted (which went public a year or two ago) says pitch 11 goes at 12+, but Tom's El Cap Report (thanks Tom!) lists the 11th pitch, which went down today, at 13c. That's quite a difference. Maybe the belay was moved, changing the difficulty of the pitch? Yeah, I think they probably moved the belay (11) up, to make it slightly easier to redpoint the remainder of the old p12.
Similarly, they split the first dike traverse pitch last year.
Tommy's facebook post suggests the current first part of the first dike traverse is 5.12d. (Might be a typo, though, as the last thing he led last year was 5.14d).
Day 5 on the #DawnWall. After resting yesterday, the boys put down pitches 11 and 12 today. When we shot their push in 2010, 12 was the pitch that shut down @kjorgeson, so getting through it today marked a team high point. Now the crux 5.14+ traverse pitches loom next. @tommycaldwell sending 11 pictured here, photo @brettlowell from BigUpClimbing Instagram:
http://instagram.com/p/xTOImmOzrZ/
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This New Year's Eve was great on the Dawn Wall. We climbed pitch 11 and 12 and they felt awesome. This means Kevin blasted by hishigh point and I am 1 12d pitch away from my high point. Now we really get into the meat of it. photo @brettlowell from
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430
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A few friends needed groceries so I brought eggs, cucumbers, crackers, salami, bourbon, and candy to the guys on the Dawn Wall. The ice blocks crashed onto camp once but conditions seemed perfect. Kevin managed to redpoint Pitch 12, a 5.14b technical arch for the first time. he was probably motivated by the sour Skittles. Tommy sent as well. This is the 3rd 5.14 pitch. The boys are entering the meat of the climb with 5 5.14+ pitches in a row. Shine the lights boys @tommycaldwell @kjorgeson @patagonia from
http://www.facebook.com/james.clayton.lucas?fref=nf
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Day 5 Recap: New Year's Eve
Yesterday was equal parts exhilarating and utterly terrifying.
The day began with a series of major ice falls right above our camp. It's hard to describe the feeling of helplessness as you watch huge chunks of ice explode and plummet toward you. A direct hit by the large chunks would have been serious. Maybe it wasn't actually that bad....Maybe we got lucky. Depends on how you look at it I suppose. Either way, I had a little anxiety stored up throughout the day as a result. My eyes rarely left the skyline unless I was climbing.
Oh right, the climbing. The goal for the day was to get through the Molar Traverse, 5.14b, which shut me down on our 2010 push. First, we had to climb the awkward corner of Pitch 11, which Tommy led like a champ and I followed on TR (pictured). Then, it was time to throw down on Pitch 12. I went up once to quickly rehearse the moves, then began lead attempts. On my first go, I numbed out and fell onto a fixed pin at the crux (backed up by a 000 C3). On my next go, everything went smooth and I managed to redpoint the pitch! After a few warm up attempts, Tommy followed on TR and we called it a night!
Now, we get to the meat of the route: three consecutive pitches of 5.14/+. Game on.
Thanks to Big UP Productions for the photo!
adidas Outdoor from
http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson?fref=nf
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Just got a text from Kevin (1:03 PM). Says, "Starting momentarily."
So they're into the crux traversing pitches as I write this. They battle through the next 3 leads and they are well set up for the send, if the weather and their tips hold out.
Thar she blows!
JL
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