Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 07:41am PT
|
No big deal at all, it's a cool pitch.
Top rated stars, and no crowds there ever.
A Yosemite classic .......
|
|
Meaty
climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 07:45am PT
|
Pretty cool climb...albeit very short.
Nice cool location hidden away down there.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 07:55am PT
|
That thing is gone now because it's 2014 now ....?
:-)
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 08:04am PT
|
Skip Guerin!
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 09:38am PT
|
Dimitri,
I couldn't care less about any list. The facts are the facts, plain and simple. Choose to ignore them if you'd like. I put the first bolts on top of that thing, I climbed the center route first (with my lack of skills). When I returned to suss the bolting, I was unable to re climb it. I broke two separate key holds while trying to do so. The day I anchored and climbed the route, I did so with Kurt Smith not Joe. I never once went up there with Joe, so if he said differently, which I doubt he did, he's dead wrong.
Two days later I went to Smith Rocks for a week and before I returned, all three routes on the wall were done. Remember that? I found out from Darius Azin whom you had called in Oregon to inform me.
As for Pete, he also wrote in an article around that time that stated that I had indeed found, and Tr'd, the center route on the Killer Pillar. Remember that? You in turn bad mouthed him and all but threatened to beat him up for it.
Finally, I didn't name that gorgeous finger crack that you bagged at the Boneyard, you did. You named it Digital Delight. I can't help it if you changed the name years later. I remember that day clearly. Joe and I both climbed that route first try after you did it (with my lack of skills of course). Joe badly wanted a burn at first ascent after you fell off, but you wouldn't let him, and you did it next try. BTW, Troy Johnson found that thing, not you. How's that for a crystal clear memory?
So, again ignore the facts if you want but this is the real history, not his story. Little Guy.
Edited: Dimitri, one of your prior posts directed at me has been completely changed, and partially deleted. You were yelling about how TR ascents are invalid, and they should never make any historical lists, and how Pete Takeda and I are both liars that want TR lists created exclusively for us {joke}, and Joe was my original partner on the KP, and he said I didn't do it, and I lacked the skills to do it, and I am a little guy with a head injured, flawed memory, and you have zero respect for Deucey, and on and on. Why the re-write? Quit being a hack, stand by your words.
|
|
Meaty
climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 09:49am PT
|
Wrong again...
"Two days later I went to Smith Rocks for a week and before I returned, all three routes on the wall were done."
That is of course a flat out lie!!
Wrong once again, The FA of those climbs were not done in a two week period and one of them was done many months later. I made no such call to Darius to inform you because you had nothing to do with the FA of any of those routes,I called Darius to talk to him. I do remember Darius and many others from Bend at the time mocking you and Kurt and telling me what arrogant chumps you were and how both of you were all talk, no big surprise there...eh?
"As for Pete, he also wrote in an article around that time that I had indeed found and Tr'd the center route on the Killer Pillar. Remember that? You in turn bad mouthed him and all but threatened to beat him up for it."
Wrong again. nothing of the kind was ever written in the mags.....what I was upset with Pete for was claiming he had previously TR'd Satanic Mechanic when he had not, I established that pitch all the way to the existing anchors of the climb to the left.....Pete couldn't do the crux on a tr but wrote in the mags that he had....it's called a flat out lie.. I didn't threaten him....but keep squirming and lying!!
What's with the lame category you and Pete wanted to create ..."previously top roped"....pretty darn hollow and ridiculous.....but from you and Pete it's no surprise.
Keep squirming Ken....
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 09:58am PT
|
speaking of the 4 seasons...just like old times...hey is that a potato up your tailpipe?
|
|
Meaty
climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 10:18am PT
|
Wade, maybe you still think the multiple incidents of vandalism regarding my vehicle in Yosemite is funny....me?...not so much.
Yeah, sure you aren't mocking me.....have you ever had your vehicle vandalized by fellow climbers in Yosemite? No? Maybe you don't know how many times my vehicle was vandalized?
And that duece chump thinks this is about ego??
What a lost soulless schmuck to make that hollow accusation.
But John has indeed advocated for chopping my climbs in the valley....no bias there!!
These are in fact some of the things I had to deal with.....John calls it nitpicking, pretty shallow indeed. Pretty easy to just shrug off vandalism when you're not a victim of it.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 10:38am PT
|
Oh f*#k,
What a joke. Rant all you want Dimitri. I'm not here to bark back and forth with you. You can try to convince people about what you'd like them to believe happened, but that doesn't change what actually did.
I've been down to the Killer Pillar three times. Originally with Kurt, the day I was the first person on planet earth to climb the thing. One time with Tucker, we escaped the ledge via his hair fest FA of Elephant Malt. And once with Frank Lucido. Again, never once with Joe Hedge, and I don't believe he told you I had. Joe? Bring it.
No call to Darius eh? flat out lie? He is exactly who I first heard it from. I was in Smith Rocks that week and he said you had called him and told him that you had just bolted and led the Center route in particular. I was not there with Kurt either, I have never been to Smith Rocks with Kurt. I was there with Pete and Snyd, and find I it hysterically ironic that you should call anyone an arrogant chump. Look in the mirror bud.
BTW, ever see the bolts on the first 35' of 5.11 climbing on the Killer Pillar below the ledge? How do you think they got there? What about the bolts on top? Do you even remember telling me that I put them in the wrong spot. Come on Dimitri.
I guess what's always gotten to me about this over the years, more than anything else, and it has.... is that you've always denied that we were up there before you, let alone that I climbed the thing first. So either you're the f*#king liar, or your massive ego has gotten so out of control that you've actually become delusional.
Also, I heard from Clint that you told him you did FFA of Cats Squirrel Continuation. As you like to say..... WRONG! Remember that episode? I sure as hell do. Care to crack that egg?
Edited: Another deleted response from Dimitri of course... It's all damage control now. Large clue, quit re-writing and deleting your posts. I have screenshots of all your originals. If you think you're capable, I'd like to have an honest, intelligent discussion about this. Email me.
|
|
SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 10:44am PT
|
Yippee! ST back on track!
Susan
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 10:46am PT
|
This thread really captures the ambiance of the eighties, like Walleye said.
Hey Kenny :-)
We should all get together in the cafe and talk sh#t like the old days.
You me meaty warbler walleye swilliman etc.
Then we can go outside afterwards and beat each other up.
It will be grand!!! :-)
Walleye most likely will win and throw us all into the dumpster .....
:-)
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 10:47am PT
|
Well, the trend here will help mitigate maudlin nostalgia for the eighties.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 10:58am PT
|
I climbed the Center route before you did Dimitri. TR yes. climbed it yes. Sorry.
Kurt can tell you that because he held the rope and witnessed it. Plain and simple.
You did not climb Cats Squirrel Continuation first. Yo yo, TR, or otherwise. Sorry. Mike Hatchett did, and you know it.
Werner! Lol....love to kick it again one day man.
Edited: This last post of mine is in response to yet another deleted tirade two posts back, authored of course by Meaty the back peddler, in which he again calls me a liar, and where he claims to have yo yo'd Cats Squirrel Continuation first. In fact, all of his posts on this thread have been either changed, or deleted, or both, in order to slant and sculpt his self centered arguments the way he best sees fit. You'll never change Meat. Again though, I saved screen shots of all your original posts.
|
|
crunch
Social climber
CO
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 11:11am PT
|
Duecy, what have you done! Stirred up a hornet's nest in less than 70 posts.
The time for a making a movie about the 80s might be, say, in another ten years, 2024? Or 2034?
At some point the old arguments become water under the bridge and there's some kind of consensus about what the era meant. The movie can't really be made until that happens, and yet has to be made while the players are still around.
Watched the Valley Uprising last night. The boys did good. The movie's great. Maybe, for me, a bit too heavy, at the end, on slack-lining and BASE and Chongo, but it's their bat and ball and I can see how their vision and narrative went that direction.
|
|
OR
Trad climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 11:14am PT
|
Loving this thread.
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 11:18am PT
|
Wade, maybe you still think the multiple incidents of vandalism regarding my vehicle in Yosemite is funny....me?...not so much.
never had an opinion about it one way or another. just helping you guys rewrite history. did the rangers get prints off that baker?
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
|
the history aspect is very interesting, and it highlights the very informal manner that these matters are reported and recorded.
My list is from the last Reid guide plus some additional information from the journals: Climbing, Mountain, and the AAJ. Some names have been corrected for spelling (thanks for all that) but the attribution of who climbed what "first" is a work in progress.
I am not in a position to make any definitive decision, of course, and count on the community... but ultimately the way this sort of thing gets carried on is through the testimony of people who were involved at the time. And if they can't decide, there really won't be a way to make that definitive statement.
So given we can't resolve these issues "objectively," the complex issue of multiple claims on a route should probably be recognized.
While this is a bit of a diversion from what deuce4 had in mind, it does shine a light on these controversies which I believe are a very important part of 1980s Valley climbing.
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
|
Wow. I was just thinking of more unsung heroes like Hideataka Suzuki and a few others, which reminded me more of the atmosphere I lived in and perhaps have selectively chosen to recall- a real climbing community. And how from time to time these days, people get in touch with me--Europeans, or more recently ya old acquaintance from Japan --who tell me how I helped them out with some gear or info back in the day, and perhaps remind me of a few forgotten climbs we did together.
But then I see this nitpicky age-old battle taking over the thread. Maybe Bob DA is right. But somehow I don't recall it that way.
There was something else, something more, something actually significant (and not necessarily in a 'climbing accomplishment' context) about that era than these recent posts suggest....or was there?
Edit:looks like someone deleted a bunch of posts....
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
|
Route theft, fisticuffs, men in tights, all In the narrow confines of the gulch. Sounds like a good decade to miss.
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2014 - 02:01pm PT
|
The 80's was the beginning of climbers getting into BASE.
Leaviitt, Slater, Cosgriff, and a few others had dabbled in it, but until I spent most of 1986 jumping the snot out of the valley, it hadn't taken off in a big way among climbers. Will Oxx would have done it, but he hadn't gotten out of the military.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!