Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
|
Cheers Ed.... and everyone else.
Mick
|
|
Jon H
Trad climber
Teaneck, NJ
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 02:04am PT
|
Saw the premier tonight in Boulder. It was a fantastic piece of film. Inspiring, hilarious, brimming with nostalgia, and poignant, even to me as a (relatively) new climber with only 14 years under my belt.
Of course people were left out. The film was a feature length 2 hr production and I don't know of any other climbing film to hit the 2 hour mark at all, but there's no way you can tell ~70 years of Valley history in 2 hours. I knew just about every single story in the film, yet the 3 friends I was with are new-ish gym climbers and didn't recognize a single name mentioned other than Honnold.
Of course it would have been fantastic to hear/see some Porter, Skinner, Sorenson, et. al. stories and footage, but I don't think it was in the cards.
All in all, it was worth every penny of the $20 I spent and I encourage everyone to see it when Reel Rock comes to a town near you.
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 04:02am PT
|
I actually read Bisharat's piece yesterday because of this thread but I didn't have anything constructive to say about it. It didn't connect much with my experiences of climbing for more than 35 years and it really didn't make me want to see the movie. However, that wonderful post by Ed Hartouni, up above, is a whole different story.
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 06:41am PT
|
"Theres a fine line between boldness and stupidity". Love it.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 08:13am PT
|
Nice Ed, very nice indeed.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 08:49am PT
|
LOL ^^^^^
modern rock climbers seem more like efficient office workers, instead of besotted visionaries
Haha aaahahaha Too funny.
Kinda true though .....
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:10am PT
|
Give the People What They Want.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:22am PT
|
ED Thanks for what you wrote.... spot on.
Bubbles... I think I know you?????
1975..... weeping wall hang???
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:29am PT
|
Saw the film last night.
I have a hard time getting past the 14 yr old caffeinated hipster view of everything rock climbing.
The film (all of these fuk'n films..) seem to come from the perspective of a child from Kansas who's just left home and sees a naked woman for the first time in his life. Instead of going over and saying hi, or even better - trying to get laid - he freaks his sh#t out and Just Has To Tell EVERYONE about it.
Peter and Nick haven't done sh#t in the rock climbing world - and I think it shows in the depth of these films - perspectives of the rock climbing world by and for noobs.
Nice to see Lynn reveal to us, for only a few precious moments, that she's done something else with her life than climb the Nose - would love to hear more - just not through Sender Films...
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:31am PT
|
Seems clear we now realize Bachar is dead. And that nothing can be regained. Just as that bunch of kids tries to deal with what they chose to do and what they chose not to do, just as my generation wishes Pratt had not had his regrets, and just as the gym kids are thinking it will never end, there is really one and only one focus. We can affect only one thing.
What we decide to do with the next five minutes.
Be careful if you think that five minutes is no more important than any other five minutes.
Only by simple chance are you here to make your decision.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:32am PT
|
Why are we watching this film in 2014—really? And what does our pervasive nostalgia for 1970s-era Yosemite climbing culture suggest about our sport today?
Bisharat made the fatal mistake.
He called it a sport.
And then the poor bloke narrowed it all down dissected it and took it all too serious and lost his soul ......
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:35am PT
|
^^^^ Amen to that - narcissism is so much more than sport.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:40am PT
|
Ed thanks. I wish the valley was still like that.
I for one am looking forward to this movie. As a younger climber who's done some reading, I am familiar with all these characters. Obviously it's only one part of the story, but as has been said, it's impossible to tell every detail in two hours.
The way these gentlemen pushed into the unknown is very inspiring to me, and i love hearing about, and seeing old images of these climbs. I'm a history nut though. Especially when it comes to climbing or snowboarding. I enjoy seeing how the pioneers of this endeavour pushed the boundaries of the time.
See ya'll in the auditorium! I wanna beer with my movie! :)
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 09:56am PT
|
Rare Tarbuster sighting. Worth the whole thread.
60 plus posts on ST, evidence enough.
Kids are busy paying for other things. Old folks will pay to see it, HA!!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 11:20am PT
|
Ed thanks. I wish the valley was still like that.
your welcome, but go to the Valley and experience it as you find it... when we showed up I'm sure that the "Golden Age boys" had already concluded that things were so much worse than when they first started climbing there...
fact is, you can still go out and climb the climbs. There are other hassles, but there always are going to be hassles. The hassles change, the Valley stays pretty much the same.
As a climber you get to know some pretty intimate details... imagine looking at an image and thinking "I've been there, the rock texture is sort of grainy at that spot," the feel of glacier polish, the smell of bay trees mixed with angry ants, the smell of chalk mixed with granite dust, the warmth of the sun as you emerge from some deep chimney, the heat of the sun before you duck into the shadow of a corner.
forsan et olim meminisse iuvabit
The Aeneid, Book 1, line 203
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
|
fact is, you can still go out and climb the climbs. There are other hassles, but there always are going to be hassles. The hassles change, the Valley stays pretty much the same.
You're right of course. Just gotta learn how to play the game to make the hang work. Kinda like training for real life i guess! Lol
The rocks will always be there, and they are our link to the past. It's pretty cool to think about all the people who climbed these routes long before i ever even got my first glimpse of the valley.
C u at Facelift Ed!
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
|
Ed,
Exactly right. I am reminded of reading a Higgins' piece around 1980 or so lamenting that the Meadows had been overrun by young punks from LA and that the golden age of TM climbing was over.
I was probably one of those punks he was referring to and I reflected that the end of Tom's golden age was the beginning of my own.
I saw the film last night and enjoyed it. Young Yosemite climbers are experiencing their own golden ages right now, and I'll bet their experiences on the rock are not diminished much by crowds and camping hassles.
Rick
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
|
Why skip 1980 to 1998 ???
One word: Spandex
Hmm, this roughly coincides with the Bee Gees. I would still wear it, and consider it fashionable in camp 4, but then again I grew up watching Soul Train. Lycra is a great thermal layer, ideal for backcountry except for the wild colors.
|
|
steve s
Trad climber
eldo
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
|
Ed,s post was great and Werner hit the nail on the proverbial head , for a lot of us climbing is not a " sport" ! There is much more to it than just calling it a sport .....especially in the late 70,s and into the 80,s. Even now I do not consider it a sport. Peace and fuk-nes Steve S. Now Puke.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
|
Great thoughts Ed!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!