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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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Lorenzo has it right. Using the crack is off route. Using the bolts AND the crack shows that you probably pay for your coffee with euros.
Okay..I'll never climb at El Potrero Chico.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
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Slip N' Slide, ORG. Whatever, it was still fun as $hit.
+1
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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Silence of the Cams.....lol! Genius!
And one of the few crack routes where bolts belong it sounds like.
We got a winner!
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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2014 - 12:35am PT
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While I'd rather place my own pro, I thought Dr. Evil at the ORG was really fantastic.
I hear that, but now that the bolts are in its not possible to place your own pro.
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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2014 - 12:49am PT
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Hey fat ass, how's your latest top rope project coming along?
Ohhh shit! now wRong's all fired up. hide your bolt kits.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:11am PT
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Am I the only one who noticed that the crack itself looks like it was made with a router and that there's a picture of someone with a drill IN the crack?
That seems a little more interesting than the bolts next to it
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:33am PT
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What is hilarious is that there are a few cracks in that photo, and one of them is not yet "finished"! LOL
Do you guys make cracks wherever? I would pay you to make a crack at Ocean beach in SF. There is lots of crap rock here and some overhangs. I want to have a thin hands thru a roof and fingers thru a bulge! Where do I order?
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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2014 - 01:34am PT
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Ron, when this all gets sorted out I think you and me should get an apartment together.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:36am PT
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Limping, I think most of us were ignoring the obvious troll since he/she hasn't posted a location or indication that it's on private property.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:44am PT
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Am I the only one who noticed that the crack itself looks like it was made with a router and that there's a picture of someone with a drill IN the crack?
Good catch limping crab!
The "rock" on OP photos looks like made from Papier-mâché too
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:57am PT
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It could be a photo from making some outdoor gym or opened area somewhere? In any case it does not look like Sugarloaf to me...yet LOL
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:58am PT
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I just may start contacting my USFS and BLM ties to catch them up to date. And I'm not kidding.
Make sure you fire off some letters to various editors and establishments to complain about any number of perceived wrongs and ills. Don't forget to shake your fist!
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Mar 25, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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look how ol' turdskimmer was treated during his "ascent" of stigma.
i remember something about some potatos in a tail pipe?
Nice job disrespecting a fallen warrior... oh wait, you are bitter and old, so it's ok, even respected here in crusty, never-was ville
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Mar 25, 2014 - 11:16am PT
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We see chain perma draws dangling in all their ugliness and that seems perfectly fine to many of you.
is the same thing as:
Congratulations on the that and your "convenience anchors" just like the gyms..
...just higher up the line!
So you are going to start chopping convenience anchors on cracks right? those are so, so Rong.
I mean you have to place pro in the crack to get to the end, then you get to cheat with chains! sacless pussification of a once proud tradition of nutcraft.
What is with 'trad' climbers these days?!
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Mar 25, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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Aren't those put in by Professional Guides so they can run "clients" up a climb, that is far above their ability?
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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When I was in Joshua Tree last fall I did the route Semi Tough. In the usual JT style there was no anchor at the top and it took a few minutes to figure out the descent. What was noticeable to me was the extensive environmental damage of all the traffic on the descent. There was a dead tree and a lot of dead vegetation from people sliding down a chimney and trampling the vegetation at the bottom. There were braided trails back to the base. I couldn't help but feel that a rappel anchor at the top would have had less impact than all the people descending in a fragile desert environment.
The descent was not difficult and it wouldn't have been for "convenience" but a reasonable comparison of the relative impact of the two approaches seems appropriate to me. It is just not like it was 20, or 30 years ago. There are a lot of us and we do have an impact.
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all in jim
climber
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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^^^^
+1
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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Sorry Mike, Climber Ethics trump environmental impact. It is the tradition of the Stonemasters, upheld by Rong...
a former LEO.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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Yep Mike.
I've actually added a bolted anchor at the request of the NPS to reduce vegetation damage from walking off (late '90s at Pinnacles).
Of course with Semi-tough some of that traffic is scramblers who didn't find the standard chasm exit...
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