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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Oct 18, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
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Bump. Anybody have any more info? Thanks.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 18, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
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Huh?...Smrz? Knutson? Harrington (I'm guessing maybe Split Mt.)?
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Oct 18, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
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I was on Gilbert Oct.,2-4. It was in good condition. Sorry no pics. Snowed 2-3 inches on us at camp. A bit more above. Made the moraine approach very tedious.
Tony
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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Oct 18, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
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TYeary,
When you say, "Gilbert was in good condition," do you mean alpine ice? snow,styrofoam?
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tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
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Oct 18, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
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N. Gully, Mt. Emmerson 10-8-06
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 18, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
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well, looks sort of icy above the cups.
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 19, 2006 - 06:45pm PT
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any recent trip reports to mendel or the palisades?
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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Oct 19, 2006 - 06:54pm PT
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ha! Funny you should say that. My buddies went up to the U-Notch last weekend. There was so much snow I guess it took five hours to reach the coulior from the moraine. I guess there was some ice (i have not got the details yet). They did two pitches and got stormed off. They said it was cold as hell. you boys out there? post up!
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 19, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
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not encouraging...
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Oct 19, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
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Gilbert had about 2-3 inches of fresh, wet snow over alpine ice. Short streach of water ice in the middle section. Some black ice as well. Upper half was all ice covered by a few inches of snow. All in all pretty nice. I hear it snowed again dumping more snow so perhaps the game's over for this year.
Tony
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Oct 23, 2006 - 07:50pm PT
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Anyone know if the colouir climbing is still good for this coming weekend? Any specific info would be appreciated...thinking of going down the east side for a sat. climb.
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Oct 24, 2006 - 03:12am PT
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Thanks Dave
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2006 - 03:26am PT
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did Dana couloir yesterday. mix of frozen snow, alpine ice, and dinner-plating water ice. would have been a romp had I not been sick.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Oct 24, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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hey Mark - when you say 'alpine ice' I assume you mean neve ? How much water ice was actually present ? Got any pics ?
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Oct 29, 2006 - 11:41pm PT
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Answered my own question - went and soloed the Dana Couloir this morning. Lots of hard neve, a couple hundred feet of blue ice in the top half or so in streaks and patches, some pockets of fresh snow (well relatively fresh anyway), and some aerated whitish ice here and there.
Seemed like it would be fairly easy to avoid most of the ice in the couloir if one so desired (and I did not :)
Solstice Couloir looked like it was still filled in to the top. When I soloed it on 9-Sept it was all neve, but I thought I caught a glimpse of blue up high this morning ... maybe it was just a shadow ...
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McC
Trad climber
Livermore Ca
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Oct 31, 2006 - 03:08am PT
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Hiked the right-most of the three couloirs left of the summit of North Peak on Saturday-10/28. Neve with no ice exposed. Some exercise but no adrenaline. Left-most gully had rocks exposed in 2 places -- looked easy to get over or around the rocks. Upper prtions of the middle gully appeared entirely melted out. Nice views from the top -- another beautiful day in the Sierra.
Friends of a friend climbed Ice 9 in mid-September. Sounded and looked like even less ice than 9/04 when I last climbed it -- so little ice to get over crux chockstone that they took off their crampons to climb up to and through the crux, and about 50 feet higher. Said they found the most beautiful line of ice had "ever laid eyes on. The ice was FAT, crystal clear, and there was no evidence of anyone ever having climbed it." Nice job Brian and Calvin!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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any news? thinking of getting a last blast in this weekend. Mendel? Palisades?
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Nov 13, 2006 - 03:14am PT
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We saw ice in the couloir on Mt. Gilbert on Sunday, perhaps 2 or 3 pitches worth.
But it depends on how much you want it. The approach slabs weren't too bad, even with a dusting of snow from Saturday's storm, and this melted off during the day. The several inches of freshies and ice on the seemingly endless talus was what really sucked though.
I understand that another system is coming in Monday. Oh well... the mountain will still be there next year.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Nov 17, 2006 - 11:42am PT
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Your right about Gilbert. We went in all the way to the base Wednesday (11/15). Beautiful water ice up high but miles of post-holing in one to two feet of fresh snow over big talus fields. What a stressful work out - one wrong step and you'd drop in up to you neck between two huge boulders. Then we got to the base of the couloir and started getting big "thawamps.." as the wind-packed powder slab settled over sugar snow. Time to turn and run... What a disappointment.
Next year I'll be back.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Nov 17, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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Yep, sounds familiar ... but it was great to be out there anyway.
Curse you Red Baron ...
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