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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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The only problems I've ever run into with Metolius cams are design related, and opinion based at that.
Although the new single stem cams are a bit longer, I've always thought Metolius pieces were a bit short, and since you can't pull just two of four lobes on the Metolius cams (especially the newer ones), they can get stuck if you're not careful.
They're super light, dependable cams. Not SH#T. Definitely not SH#T.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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Vitaly,
Go back, try and get the cam out. Check the base for the string.
I tried to get it out so I can send it in, but it didn't work and it walked in and was upside down. If you want to take it out, do your best. It is on Sherrie's crack at Pat and Jack. If not, I really hope someone can bring a saw and take that garbage out. I would if I could.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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It's the Friends I'm always replacing trigger wires on. Usually one cam breaks each climbing trip. I have to keep asking myself why I still consider them my good friend.
Lots of Metolius in my arsenal but I don't think I've ever broken a trigger wire. The trigger wires are more exposed (on the outside of the stem) with Friends and they're protected a little better on the Metolius but I don't know anything of the new kevlar strings.
Trigger wires are an issue still that I think could be improved upon both for longevity and equally important, ease of replacement.
Arne
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Over the years I've found that all sizes (ESPECIALLY the large ones) of the TCU's have weak trigger wires, feel flimsy and less reliable, and wear out quickly. The large sizes in the master cams are fine and comparable to C4's (although like most, BD's have just become my standard in these sizes), and the smaller sizes of the master cams (yellow and below) tend to be the sh#t and what I prefer over BD C3's. But that's just me.
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vlani
Trad climber
mountain view, ca
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Vitaly, did you lubricate them recently or something? I wonder what things like WD40 would do to those glued kevlar tips.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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I like my Masters, but I agree that the trigger cords on them suck. I have had a couple of them that were fairly new where the cord sheath has separated and bunch up in the trigger. Another where the cord has broken outright. All on cams that were less than a couple years old, whereas every other broken trigger I have had has taken years.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I had a mangled, smaller 4cu after my partner took a huge fall.
The cam stops broke. It was not operable when I sent it in to Metolius for inspection.
I sent it in with a letter explaining the situation, and that I would like the unit to be sent back for sentimental reasons, and the fact that it was my property when they were done with it.
They sent back a letter, explaining that the cam failure was due to user error (Most likely), and that they destroyed the unit.
I wrote them back multiple times and asked why my property was destroyed and not returned to me as I had requested.
They never replied.
I am not a fan of the any Metolious cams for reasons mentioned above. I do have the older generation TCU's, and they are in storage unless I need a 4th set for something.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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Vitaly, did you lubricate them recently or something? I wonder what things like WD40 would do to those glued kevlar tips.
No. What is crazy about this situation is that this cam is almost new. It was probably a year since I got it, but it was almost never used since most people I climb with like BDs and had own BDs of that size to supplement my rack.
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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V..
I use Metolious masters and offsets for all my small gear and have for years. I don't use any sizes larger than yellow except in the offsets for a short list of routes... like the Nose for example.... I have taken many whippers on them, aided a bunch on them, etc..., and they have been bomber.. I do also have some with the new kevlar wires, and they too have been fine..
I can't speak to placing/removing the larger (non-offset) ones... but the large offsets have been awesome (when you need em) and I / my followers have not experienced any weirdness with them..
With that said, the blue and yellow sizes can be sticky to remove in my experience, even when well placed..
The only real issues I have had has been self induced... After a pretty long fall onto a yellow on space walk, I had to give it some TLC and lube... and a few others have needed lube from sheer usage and falls..
dustin
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Vitaliy is spelled with an I, yes?
sorry for the fasttypo
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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and METOLIUS is spelled without the second O in the thread title.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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Too bad I didn't spell it right. Would hate for people to not see it in the search engines and buy this piece of sh#t.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Had both and while the cam lobes are more durable than the soft metal alien/totem basics, I prefer that softness and consider it a "feature". I still have a set of offset and master cams but am essentially Aliens for small cams.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Camalot triggers have given me way more grief over the years, especially the early versions. Less of a problem with C4s but still. I haven't had problems with Metolius, the older or the newer kevlar trigger wires. I haven't been that hard on the newer ones though (kids, work, what can I say?)
Rigid friends are pretty much the only thing that will take years of abuse without trigger problems.
Vitaliy's problem sounds like an unlucky fluke?
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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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The problem I have with Metolius Powercams and TCU's is that the trigger doesn't have anything to stop it from being pushed *forward* (the way Camalots do). When the trigger is pushed forward to the base of the lobes it puts a serious kink in the trigger wires, and over time they will fray and break. Another annoyance is that the cam lobes themselves can rotate on their axle (again Camalots don't allow for this because of the dual axle design), which sucks when you go to place one in a desperate situation only to find that it's all tweaked, or if one walks around in a crack enough it can become "inverted" and a pain to retrieve.
Luckily they do a great job with replacing the trigger wires if you mail them in.
I don't own any mastercams, but in general any flexible stem cam is going to be much harder to retrieve. I've never had to leave a cam behind, and that's probably at least in part due to me not owning any flexy stem cams.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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if one walks around in a crack enough it can become "inverted" and a pain to retrieve.
I lost another green cam of theirs on NE Buttress of Higher for exact same reason. When I placed it. I was not in a desperate stance and remember doing a good job. When my friend said it got inverted I could not understand how. Got down, looked at it, and it really was. So I lost 2 green cams, 1 purple because it walked in and got stuck, had trouble with two yellows, now only one of them doesn't work. So about half of my metolious rack (aside from offsets) was lost for no good reason. I do like their offsets and Yellow/Orange sizes for climbing, but not a big fan overall. If that is not obvious in the OP.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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I have three sets of most sizes of Metolius cams. They are quality gear.
I've broken a couple wires over the years. This is to be expected.
Sorry you're having bad luck but, like Russ says, chances are Metolius will stand behind their product.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I have been using MET TCU/FCU's for over 20 years and have NEVER had them fail in any fashion. Never.
Well Chief, there are a few of us who have, hence the thread.
Besides, those ultralights have the worst head on them. The cable terminations bulge out and offer the least amount of placement options.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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So I lost 2 green cams, 1 purple because it walked in and got stuck, had trouble with two yellows, now only one of them doesn't work. So about half of my metolious rack (aside from offsets) was lost for no good reason.
F*#kin' A.
Have you lost lots of other gear too or only Metolius?
Just wondering.
I've never had to leave a cam behind for any reason.
Only have one older Metolius unit and just got an orange mastercam.
Maybe that's why.
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