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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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On Bobs second day on the Grotto he cruised 100' of the simulator. He and I think the cross pulls, or roll ups-twist in locks feel quite a bit like crack climbing when you have cross crack reaches. He worked the bigger holds.
To make this a power routine I would normally would have added weight since I could do the set proficiently but instead I bolted on the small crimps set and in lieu of adding weight did 3 sets of 10 grasps with each hand. Bob was sliding the crash pad along and so I squeeked out the whole set? sort of by accidentally reaching for the ladder lip once. I will need a few more runs to feel adding is necessary for a power workout. 60 feet of the small crimps gave me a hell of pump which may be useful training for the real Grotto Ceiling when temps warm.
Bob has plans to move his crack machine on top of the ladder. It will work fine there.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 10, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
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cooler curls
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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Those are some big arms anita. Me jelly.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
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DMT, Dingus McGee has been publishing guidebooks by that name for well over 30 years I would guess.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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Since 1978!
Mike M, I mosly worked Spearfish canyon ice and Little Elk Creek. I did go to do the Harney ice flow but it was thin that year. Did not look good enough for the way I felt the 1972 tools worked--Chouinard rigids front pointing and their hammers.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
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A tamer version of this.
A lot of one legged balance exercises on BOSU ball.
I've been doing a lot of BOSU ball balance and agility exercises the last 4 months.
I am IMPRESSED with what a difference I feel in flexibility, agility and balance that has transferred over to biking, running and skiing.
Susan
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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I have done three different flows in little elk creek with only one being anything but low angle ice, but it rarely comes in. Did do a few rock routes there also.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Here how my week went.
Climbed on the weekend.
Jan 6th Monday – run 6 miles. Quick pace. Rest day from climbing.
Jan 7th Tuesday – bouldered 2.5 hours. Did hangboard/pull ups. Did 2 problems I couldn’t for a while, finally. Was able to start a problem I couldn’t even start 2 weeks ago. Felt good.
Jan 8th Wednesday – 20 leg raises, 25 ball crunches, 20 lateral side pulls with 45lb weight, 25-35 push ups. 4 sets with 2 minutes rest in between.
7 mile hike
January 9th Thursday. Bouldered 2 hours. Some work on a campus board. And campus training. On one of the sets did 8 reps of 8-10 seconds on with 10-14 seconds off on holds I used to do 6-9 seconds with 20 second rests just two weeks ago. Also was able to do 6 pull ups on holds I was able to do 4 pull ups max.
Today, Friday - rest.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 10, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
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I hiked and did my plank workout....
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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No more crash pad needed for the Grotto Ceiling simulator!
First we hooked a pulley tightened doubled 9.2mm single rope along the bottom of the ladder and loaded it in the center with body weight and concluded to much stretch. Then we tried a single line of 7/16 synthetic dyneeema winch cable. It had just the right stretch and impact lateral force for a fall from the ladder.
We added removable T-nutted plywood panels to the top of the ladder so we could bolt some standard ceiling type holds to the bottom of the plywood. But bingo, we can easily remove these and affix the crack machine on top the ladder.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 12, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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Go Broncos.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jan 12, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 12, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Training with this guy tomorrow. He's the bomb.
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Jan 12, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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TR soloed this yesterday. Went and ran laps on G1 today until I was too pumped to hold onto my tools.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 12, 2014 - 10:20pm PT
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A little solo aid practice yesterday at the Tunnel Crags.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 13, 2014 - 12:09am PT
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Two hours in Vertical World, Seattle, where I also ran into Ghost (David Harris) and Mari. So cool to see them!
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 13, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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21-15-9 deadlifts & box dips
then clean & jerk at my max
beeeeeeeeefcaaaaaaaaaaake@$#@
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 13, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Soloed shoestring on mt Webster.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 14, 2014 - 01:43am PT
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