Your 1st, first ascent

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 41 - 60 of total 91 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

neverwas

Mountain climber

Dec 15, 2013 - 08:18pm PT

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

From Panorama City, CA

Dec 15, 2013 - 08:20pm PT

I was mainly talking about on sighting routes with no route knowledge as a way to get that golden FA feeling even at climbed out crags.

It really is more about the rock than anything. Simply not having knowledge of it's secrets is where it's at. The rock is really what turns me on. I just like seeing the earth's naked crust. I dream about it regularly and always have.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Dec 15, 2013 - 08:21pm PT

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/pictures-at-an-exhibition/105722287

My first FA was with master climber Mike Paul......in 1977.......an exciting day for me.....got the "ball rolling"...so to speak..

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Dec 15, 2013 - 08:29pm PT

I initially got into climbing in order to experience some of the only unexplored real estate on this increasingly crowded planet....mountains. First ascenting presumes traversing virgin terrain on a micro (mountains) or micro micro (rock climbs) level. What the hell, it's a great way to fulfill the exploratory urge, open more generally to earlier generations.

I honestly can't pinpoint my first FA, probably in the Tetons followed by Yosemite.

crunch

Social climber

Dec 15, 2013 - 08:52pm PT

Bottom line is climbers that don't do FAs should think twice before judging those who do, whether it's how they're bolted, how they're cleaned, how they're climbed, or why they're climbed.

Nice idea, well stated. I would have fully agreed, long ago. I still agree 100 percent where the FA party leaves no permanent trace (fixed anchors, slings, etc) of their passing.

But there are so many of us now, recreating in the same landscape.

First ascent parties need to be very aware of potential issues they may provoke with other climbers and with non-climbers.

I've done quite a few first ascents. I try to be very careful to adhere to the ethics that are OK in an area. If I think a potential climb may provoke criticism, or even if I think the impacts from cleaning, bolting, nailing, whatever might be involved, are too heavy, I'll walk away. In 2013, we first ascentionists have to think about how others will view our impacts.

A first ascent opportunity is a privilege. With this comes some responsibility. My worst nightmare would be to provoke the kind of controversy created by the FA of Delicate Arch.

Ljohnson

Social climber

The land of ice, snow and rocks

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2013 - 09:05pm PT

Awesome responses! Thanks everyone.
Hearing input from people who have done thousands of FA's is pretty cool, that's why I love the Taco.

I would love to hear some more of the stories from BITD if anyone feels like taking the time to jot them down or post up a link.

As far as the whole ego v/s reporting routes etc... There are a lot of ways to look at it. I truly believe that the history of climbing is part of what makes climbing great. Thrutching up a route with modern gear that was put up with Goldline and pins allows a modern climber a peek into history and get a candid glimpse at those who were pushing the limit of possible in a previous time. The more documentation we have of our history the better IMHOP.

I have a good friend that once pointed out that it won't be too many more decades before all of the "Golden Age climbers" will be gone. And with them a lot of amazing history.

The other side of that coin is that with endless documentation in guidebook form, climbers overall tend to lose the sense of adventure that was so important to the sport in the first place. In fact, it seems as though those who have posted above with numerous ascents to their name have almost all mentioned that they do FA's for just that- a sense of adventure by going where nobody has before.

I guess my point is that regardless of ego (which I do not dispute is part of claiming FA's and climbing in general, perhaps even an integral part.) Documenting climbs is important. Personally, and partially why I started this thread in the first place, is those choss heaps that I climbed do not warrant any written history but many people's 1st, first ascents are worthy of being herd- even if only due to the fact it is a good story.

Happy Idiot

Trad climber

Santa Fe

Dec 15, 2013 - 09:08pm PT

hmmmm, I haven't been in this game very long at all. And I never really thought of myself as an FA kind of guy. But I recently found some stuff here in New Mexico that was remote, but it looked good and seemed worth some time-investment. So we've been taking the gearz for some walks:

My 1st 1st: Winter of 2013; based on the remote location, and the lack of tat or prior rap anchors, etc., it seemed pretty clear that nobody with any intent to climb had been up this frozen waterfall before:
Then I showed this other flow to my buddy, who got it on with it:
It seemed pretty humbling to nab a couple probable FAs on ice, in this day and age, considering all the hype....

2nd 1st: In the summer 2013, another friend went with me to check this tower, in the same canyon:
We climbed 400 feet in 2 pitches up the left side (south face). 5.7, with a little looseness, but ntb.
No signs of anyone prior on the summit, so we claimed it. (Although, not after my partner punked me with a dirty plastic spoon that he'd found on the trail and carried up with him... SOB!)
We rapped off slung trees; no other material left behind.

There's tons of FA potential in this canyon. And, although I'm an avid and regular user of mountainproject, I've not posted either of these route descriptions. Partly, because they're not really worth repeats. But also, these areas are remote, and are federal wilderness, and are, hmm, worth the payoff to the adventurer who seeks out the unknown. And they're my babies. But, conversely, I've hopefully left enough of a sign (in the form of slung rap anchors, summit cairn) to any future suitors that these routes are not virgin.

So, yeah, FA'ing for personal satisfaction, for ego, or legacy, or for hmmm....? Still thinking on that one, I am.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

From Panorama City, CA

Dec 15, 2013 - 09:09pm PT

I just put a link up on an earlier post in this thread. It recounts a climb I did as a teenager with Galen Rowell and Fred Beckey. It hard to forget trips like that. It took place on the East Face of Mt. Powell in the Sierra. Scroll down to the story.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2072695&tn=20

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Dec 15, 2013 - 09:12pm PT

Nice posts Warbler and crunch. Props.

Mine was a 3 bolt rap job(What?) called 5lbs 9oz at The Promised Land, Az. in '91.
It was fun, added to the area, and I was proud of it at the time.
And it got upgraded to 10a, lol.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Dec 15, 2013 - 09:53pm PT

Geez Crunch...you certainly aren't talking about sport climbers first ascents. Leave no trace....i agree but where would archeologists be?

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Dec 15, 2013 - 10:10pm PT

Jim wrote: Geez Crunch...you certainly aren't talking about sport climbers first ascents. Leave no trace....i agree but where would archeologists be?

Yes and trad climbers and mountaineers have done a great job on that...look at Everest and the tons of trash, pitons, webbing and other crap left behind these climbers. :-)

MisterE

climber

Dec 15, 2013 - 10:19pm PT

That's not ego?

Serious question. I think it is. One can contribute without legacy. Not every president needs a library?

DMT

Not really, I figure most people that climb a route won't know or care who put it up, unless it is a real stand-out.

It's just there and gets enjoyed.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Dec 15, 2013 - 10:22pm PT

Bob, the one thing that humans have perfected to an astonishing degree is hypocrisy.

steelmnkey

climber

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...

Dec 15, 2013 - 10:26pm PT

Hey Jefe, check this out...1996
Route called Bunny Slope (9+) we put up at the Promised Land.
Not my first or last. Hope it hasn't fallen down yet!

steveA

Trad climber

Wolfeboro, NH

Dec 16, 2013 - 08:38am PT

I'm really not sure, but in my case, it was probably some solo aid climb,
where I was learning how to aid, in preparation for something on a larger scale. It might of been Jane, at Crow Hill, which I did mid-winter, all iced up.
Henry Barber did the 1st free ascent, after he came onto the scene, establishing the 1st 5.11 in Massachusetts. It is a trade route now, but still, bolt free.