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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The Eiger would have been in a totally different league.
Ha! With all due respect the Eiger would have been a punter's warmup for North Twin.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Amazing stories gentlemen. Proud work on that Ascent Steve. Great story Chris. Have any of you seen the foreign film North Face. Quite well done. Amazing cinematography and a good story from an iconic period. Its the Kurtz story and its well put together.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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I'm gonna.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Wow....the full length film is actually on you tube if you look it up. Yall gotta see this thing. The wall footage is full on sweaty palm and the acting is very stylish.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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I was there in 2011, attempted the monch and wetter, failed, but it was such a beautiful place..
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I am still in awe of the challenge it presented to anyone armed only with hemp, wool, tricouni nails and without helmets
and that's why it didn't get done until heckmair led it in 12 pts.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Lou Renner. He had some great tales about climbing in the Alps. He is a great partner and guide.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Charlie Fowler soloed the face.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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Peter Arbic.
I think PA did the 2nd ascent of the North Face go Alberta with Tim Auger as well.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 10, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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Lewis and Swenson did the 2rd ascent of N Face Alberta. Barry Blanchard and Greg Cronn did the 3rd. Ward Robinson and Dan Guthrie did maybe the 4th.
PA climbed it with Tim Auger who was in his late 40's at the time I think.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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Ueli Steck soloed it in what? 2 1/2 hours?
Amazing.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2013 - 10:43am PT
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Even more amazing...he doesn't hold the record...
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 10, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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Bill Pilling. Can't remember who he did it with.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 10, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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OK, I was wrong about PA's ascent of Alberta, apologies.
I'm pretty sure he climbed the Eiger though.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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20. april 2011: Daniel Arnold (Switzerland) solos the North face in 2 hours 28 minutes, using the fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser Traverse. Arnold was 19 minutes faster than Ueli Steck in 2008, but Steck climbed the route entirely without aid and, unlike Arnold, completed the route in the official winter season.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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The word I hear, and I might have mentioned it before, is that it isn't typically climbed in the summer anymore. The icefields are now tiny and the rockfall is too bad. Late spring or even in winter is the time.
So it requires a fair amount of modern mixed climbing skill.
I tell ya, being young with a pack bristling with ice tools is a babe magnet, especially when you tell them you are on your way to solo the Eiger.
It also helps hitching rides.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Dec 10, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 11, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Steve Swenson and Todd Bibler did it sometime back in the eighties.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Dec 11, 2013 - 07:19am PT
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Great thread, thanks Steve for the info about Eric Jones, he seemed like someone you would instantly want to share a rope with. So with all this experience commenting on the Eiger, I've always wanted to know what in North America would be similar, or what alpine routes would be a good primer.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:21am PT
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One of my Survival Instructor school buddies pulled it off with no trouble at all!
I guess he was there with the right partner on the right day.
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