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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Wow, Dick, I never heard that story. When I first heard that Tom's sanity might be ebbing I thought that of all the people in my climbing circle, his would be the least likely. Your conjecture that this was deliberately induced to discredit him is totally with in the realm of possibility.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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I have always suspected something was done to him to cover something up. Interesting that at least one other has thought of the same possiblity.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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My sincerest condolences to friends and family of Tom Gerughty. While I can appreciate there are deliberate events that are within the "realm of possibilities" let's not forget how close mental illness is to touching us all. Statistically psychotic illness affects 3% of the population regardless of race, gender, social economic factors etc., it's one of those bad cards in this game we call life.
Having a loved one with such a disabling and chronic illness as schizophrenia is incredibly challenging. I can say from my own experience having a son with the illness their most valued memories come from the times they shared with family and friends pre-onset of the illness. Please find peace in knowing each of you no doubt added to the wealth Tom accumulated in his life. Those days in the Valley and TM climbing with his buddies and taking photos I'm certain provided him with a high degree of satisfaction despite the bad card he got dealt later, again if that is the case which is also within the realm of possibilities.
Charlie D.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Thanks for that post Charlie.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I have a daughter who suffers terribly from schizophrenia. What angers and upsets me most is the way psychotic disease is perceived in this country.
Very few resources are available and the stigma attached to psychosis causes denial among those afflicted further hindering their treatment.
The mind is just another organ but diseases of other organs are not stigmitized. I am aware that a lot of this is due to the behavior exhibited by those suffering from psychosis, but why are they treated as if the disease is their fault?
For me, a big measure of the quality of a society is the way they treat their mentally ill. In this, the USA fails miserably.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I remember a number of interesting conversations with Tom. He seemed
like a great soul, though I never got to know him very well. I
learned of him more through Higgins... He did phone me once and,
as I recall, wrote some letter I didn't understand.... It's a
sad loss. Sometimes it surprises us who are members of the
family and how or when we must and do realize it....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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I would love to see a bunch of photos that Tom took, perhaps posted here as well as a link to any website where they might be viewed. I'm sure for those of us who knew Tom, it would help revive our fond memories of him to see his photographic work.
If there is a memorial for Tom, it'd be great to have some of his work displayed there, if available. Whoever might be putting such a memorial together, I'm open to sending high resolution copies of my pix for such an event.
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Tom & I climbed a lot together. With Beck's naming us all by first initial and middle name, he was T Charles and I was J Charles. He was really into cracks and chimneys. He was proud of the fact that his Kronhofers were worn evenly across the width of the sole, and he teased others because ours showed more wear on the insides from edging. In the summer of 1966, we estimated he had done a full mile of squeeze chimneys.
Like Erb, I got one of the letters about the yellow men in 1974 after I had moved to Santa Barbara, and I have felt badly over the years about not making more effort to keep in touch with him.
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John Morton
climber
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The heart skips a beat upon reading this news, and I am touched by the testimonials from these old pals. My memories of Tom run only up into 1967, but I received one of the packets in the mid-1970's. I don't remember the specific contents, only the impression that it all seemed outlandish, unfocused and certainly fearful.
When I remember this now I am sad to think of how little empathy I felt at the time. I had had zero exposure to mental illness, but experience since then has taught me a lot. The notion of foul play never occurred to me, but from what I know of the world now I will agree that such a thing is plausible, and the thought of it makes me angry.
The photos are beautiful, powerful and incredibly evocative of Tom. He was a vital presence in those days, truly a great guy. Thanks to all for your contributions.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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One of my friends from high school was schizophrenic (fortunately not so paranoid). He was friendly and lucid. And he explained it clearly, that he "heard voices". The medication was fairly effective for that, but he wasn't functional enough to be able to work, live by himself, etc.
Depression (major depressive disorder) is possibly harder for people to understand. A simple description is that people wake up sad every day, for no reason.
The problem with understanding it is that sometimes we ourselves wake up sad, but for some reason. And we are able to "cheer ourselves up". But people with MDD can't do this so easily. Sometimes drugs and therapy help.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Major_depressive_disorder
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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I first met Tom in the summer of 1965 when his picnic table was just below mine in Camp 4. We always thought of ourselves as the more conservative members of the camp compared to some of the other characters around, and had many interesting conversations. We celebrated the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn with Sheridan Anderson and other assorted Camp 4 residents until our hip hip hoorays for Edward Whymper brought out the rangers and sent us all down to the beach. Among other topics we also spent a lot of time trying to figure out who the mysterious Chuck Ostin who came and went that summer, really was. And Tom always enjoyed my tuna casseroles, about the only protein the two of us ate that summer.
I saw him again every summer after that through 1969, including shortly after the terrible accident on El Cap. I remember him unwrapping the bandages around his hands and explaining that he was facing surgery to remove the scar tissue which had created webbing between his fingers. He was also at a memorable party in 1968 in the boulders above Camp 4, when Pratt went bonkers and attacked me screaming something about the full moon and werewolves. I really appreciated Tom's muscle power that night as he dragged Chuck off and put him to bed, not an easy feat by any means! Like Eric, I would have voted Tom the least likely climber I knew to have mental problems. He always came across to me as one of the more sensible and stable ones.
The last time I saw Tom was in 1972 just before I went to Nepal and he seemed his same thoughtful, ironic self. I was surprised and saddened when I inquired about him while trying to organize the Sacherer memorial. As a friend to both Frank and I, I had hoped he could attend. Now I'm glad to hear that he went on to do well at least for a time, at photography and school, and had a girlfriend. Like many in Camp 4 he used to worry that would never happen. Truly, may Tom as both a good friend and person, rest in peace.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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I have a date and a place for the memorial. Sat. Nov 16.
Time to be announced.
see
http://norcalhostels.org/marin
I would love to display photos- both his and of him. Not sure how to make this happen. I would also like to share some of the comments and stories about the climbing days. His nephews had no idea he was a climber.
Any help is much appreciated. This group has done much to help my other brother, my husband and I to process Tommy's passing. We appreciate everyone's comments immensely. Jane
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Jim, do you know about NAMI? Great support group. The group has helped my family a lot. This story is so familiar. I wish the best and send my support to his family and friends. God send.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I would love to display photos- both his and of him.
Not sure how to make this happen. Are you in possession of his photos?
Are they prints, black&white negatives, or color slides?
Any of these can be scanned or printed.
If you don't have the time/interest, some of us can help.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I just recalled a b/w photo that Tom showed to me sometime in the early 70s. It was a simple composition of a path through a thick forest with the sun light streaming through the trees, but probably very difficult to get right. Technically it was perfect--for those of us who saw b/w pictures through Ansel Adam's definitions. Tom was very proud of it. If that turns up, it should be included in Tom's photos.
I teased him and said it looked like an ad shot for "Diamonds are Forever." With two young lovers holding hands and walking along, it would have made a great ad photo.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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I think the negatives are on large glass plates. Have not a clue where to take them to get them printed. There is a small box of black and white prints 11" by 16" i would guess) and a few up on his walls in frames. I am thinking of a shutterfly book but hesitate since i want good quality. If several of us can do this, it would be fantastic. I have a crazy hectic job and a teenager still at home.(
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nice. I can scan 8" x 10", and I think Ed has access to a larger scanner.
The negatives on glass plates can be scanned, too. I'll see if Ed has time.
I live in Palo Alto and work in Burlingame, so I could drop by with scanner/laptop or borrow the box and return it. (I'm off to Yosemite tonight for the weekend, though).
Posting images online (e.g. on flickr) would be an effective way to share with the folks now often scattered across the US.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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EDIT: I just changed this tiny Supertopo web file to a grayscale after first posting it still in its RGB format. It had been an RGB from ST and I kept it that way to achieve certain balances and out of curiosity as well. Of course it was originally a B/W but posted in RGB, probably scanned that way.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Thanks so much for the picture, Jane. What a great photo! Thanks also, Peter, for the enhancement!
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