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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 17, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
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A little "confusion." What I was saying, is there doesn't appear to be a bolt in the photo (and I remember that 1/4"er...scarey!)
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2006 - 07:37pm PT
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Apocalypse: re: "confusion"
Oh...gotcha. If you look closely, you can almost see the bolt, just behind the right knee.
By the way, anyone know why the belt was called a "swami"? Not a trick question...I just don't think I ever knew. Was it because it was like a wrapped turban, or something?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Jul 17, 2006 - 09:07pm PT
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Peter wrote: ...Bob D' remember a day in '78 in the Gunks? Back then you were called "the Philadelphia Flyer" and you introduced me to the time honored gunks tradition of the sandbag, I chickened out though, then you took a turn and flew!
Peter...how are you man? This site just keep getting better with all these old farts posting.
Yes I remember that day and I remember how I could make an ass out of myself.
Hope you're doing well and life is good!
Later, Bob
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 18, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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Lechlinski, el camino real, taquitz, '82
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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Notice the avante-garde shoes, the lowrider swami with leg loops, the bombproof attachment of rope to swami with standard oval 'biner, and the stellar belay technique. Santee...a couple of friends...around 1981 or '82.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:23pm PT
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How about big walls in a swami, sans leg loops. Did that a couple times and my kidneys were never the same.
JL
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
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JL - That probably would've been the case for your "Nose In A Day," yeah?
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I once had a long talk with a Swami near the Chandi Chowk in Old Dehli in the late 70s, while I was doing the year around the world on 4000$ circuit. I got an amulet and a pretty interesting fortune told out of it. Are we talking about the same thing? Maybe not.........hah
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Since I had no intention of falling while ice climbing, I figured the swami would work just fine.
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Johnny K.
Mountain climber
California
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"Adventures in swamis",reminds me of the documentary video "free climb" by Robert Redford,swami+bigwalls=adventures ensue.
"FREE CLIMB. A classic film about the first free ascent of Half Dome in Yosemite, narrated by Robert Redford. This is the incredible story of two experienced rock climbers' attempt to free climb the 2,000-foot high vertical face of Half Dome in Yosemite Valley, California in 1976. The two climbers are Art Higbie and Jim Erickson. Produced by Robert Godfrey. 30 minutes.
Half Dome Northwest Face, Regular Route
This is the first true Grade VI climb in Yosemite.
The most popular big wall route on one of Yosemite's most famous features - the vertical face that makes this Dome a 'half' rather than a whole. A great route by the legendary Royal Robbins that opened a new chapter in American rock climbing. Suffers from crowding and trashing now. A common target for speed ascents, but the average team will still spend a night or two on the wall.
All of the major walls and formations in Yosemite Valley had been climbed by the mid 1950s with the exception of the Northwest Face of Half Dome and El Capitan.El Capitan, with its intimidating 3000 foot face, was obviously out of the question for at least a few years, leaving Half Dome, with a much more manageable 2000 foot face, as the logical next goal.
The first attempt to climb it was made in 1954 by Dick Long, Jim Wilson, and George Mandatory. However, they only managed to climb 175 before retreating. A more serious attempt to find passage up this cliff was made in 1955 by Jerry Gallwas, Don Wilson, Royal Robins and Warren Harding. After climbing a mere 500 feet over five days, this party, too, retreated.
Gallwas and Robbins, armed with new chrome-molybdenum pitons made by Gallwas, recruited Mike Sherrick and set off on June 24, 1957, determined this time to finish the route. Over a period of five days, they encountered repeated obstacles and, using ingenuity and tenacity, they surmounted all these difficulties. Five days after they had left the ground, they stood at the summit. Warren Harding had hiked up the backside of Half Dome via the hikers 'trail for the occasion. He had been planning, along with Mark Powell and Bill 'Dolt' Feuerer,to give the route another attempt, but had been beat to it by the successful team. Nevertheless, Harding offered the triumphant team a warm congratulations.
In 1976 Art Higbee and Jim Erickson took the final aid out of the climb on pitch 23 near the top in this film.
http://image.bayimg.com/cakfdaacc.jpg
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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mooser's first post
1/4 inch bolts with rusty, spinning hangers. I was always happy to find one of these to clip into, but often it only gave the leader psychological comfort to continue;
Do you really think those days are past?
Swami death by suffocation: happened to an unfortunate young lad on rappel in the Pinnacles in the mid-70s.
I always tied leg loops in my swami. I'd rather have kidney failure than suffocate.
PA death: I THOUGHT I was gonna die when my PA's blew while I was offroute near the crux of Pywiak Dike Route in the mid 70s. Fortunately when I zipped past the 1/4" bolt with a rusty sheet metal hanger, it held. I went far enough it was about Fall Factor 1.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2010 - 08:04pm PT
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I thought I was gonna die when I left my PAs in the back of my VW on a really hot day in San Diego, and they curled up like those witch feet under Dorothy's house. I babysat a lot of hours to get those puppies.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Ok! I started roped climbing in 1969. Goldline-Yes, bowline on a coil-yes, PA's -no!, climbed in REI imitation RR's.
1/4" bolt with spinning hanger? Oh yeah! Even for belays. In about 1978, Avery Tichner gently explained that one 1/4" bolt for belays was "considered dangerous" in Yosemite, and we started adding a 2nd 1/4" bolt. "Bomber."
Swammi???? What was wrong with us in Idaho?? We were climbing in harnesses with leg-loops by 1971. Mostly home-made as I recall.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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All geared up Fritz-nice glasses!
Did your nurses use a Swami or did you harness them?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Guido: I have to stay on thread. Peshastin, near Leavenworth WA: is sandstone climbing, and in the mid-70's had lots of 1/4" bolts with spinning heads.
The nurse girlfriend and her sister spent the night in my tent after watching climbing all day.
The nurse whispered that watching climbers: "made her incredibly horny."
Sorry, no photos of the nurse, but it was a fantasy night.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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My longtime climbing partner dismissed even the idea of a harness with these words, "better a broken back than a set of broken balls."
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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Sounds like he'd encountered a Whillans...
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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please fritz, tell the part about the dirndl one more time, if you would
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