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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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The push became shove I think, but they styled to the top this morning.
El Cap is rockin! You can really feel the difference when Sept. hits.
3 FA going down right now on obscure walls. Two teams on Zode, team on the Trip, Soloist still rockin Mescalito, regular Nose steadiness, one team low on Salathe.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Damn i miss that place!
So Erik, when can I expect to see you and the boy back at Martin Park?
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Mark Sensenbach
climber
CA
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Nanook thank you for all the support for the boys. Great talking w you and all the crew at the bridge!
i think a tuolumne meadows ipa drip line would work too. :)
white meats pops
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Thanks Mark! Good times.
Things are pretty mellow for Sept. here. Perfect weather!
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macleodnc
Big Wall climber
ca
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Nanook, that first team on the Zodiac was My friend Will and myself, and it was my first big wall! any chance, you or anyone down on the bridge took any photos? If there were any taken from down there it would be much appreciated if we could see them!
Cheers, Norm
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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whitemeat report!
between the smoke,breif rain, and me having to lead 90%... we did it in 31 hours! I started with a pace of getting to sickle in 1.5 hours and finished with a pace of 30 minute pitches. it was way harder then I thought it could be but I will go back and crush it some other time!
trip report coming soon!!!!!
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Sweet! Can't wait to be driving south!
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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not much. And the approach would be pretty tough with a normal amount of snow and ice. It's perfect right now ;)
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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Hey guys,
No need for any arguing. That's just the way Eric talks, like he's from Alcatraz instead of Marin ;)
Man I wish I was up on the walls instead of cranking on this book....have fun up there Eric!
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Offset
climber
seattle
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if everyone had your zen, erik...
to steal one from warren miller (sort of): on their death bed, nobody says "i wish i would have argued about bolts on more"
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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Don't know how many of you are thinking of coming down to climb. The weather is incredible and the Valley is empty. Camp 4 has had tons of spots open the last several nights.
The Nose has a couple parties below the Legs. Zodiac has Korean team fixed to 2, and another time starting to fix. Eagles Way has two parties.
Git sum!
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Haha, we've got a big Korean team and a disabled team on Zodiac, so the stars might have twice or three times as many people as the King. The Nose is pretty wide open still.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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"I saw Erik Sloan this morning in the Camp 4 parking lot. My partner and I had packs on heading for the Falls Trail."
Clearly a troll. Klaus hasn't been even been seen in the Valley in years, let along seen with climbing gear. {wink}
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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What I like about Nanook is no matter who says what about him he just keeps it civil and positive.
You make this site a better place. Thanks.
Can't argue with that.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Folks finally showed up on the Nose, with a righteous bottleneck in the Stovelegs. Of course every party but one bailed. Take it easy folks--it's fine to ask someone to fix your line if they slowed you down massively, or you can offer to send a leader up their haul line and take off leading(belayed by their leader while he hauls) to start a passing sequence.
The Nose also has a rap station and some alternate belays that can facilitate passing. Keep going up!
Team on the Salathe. A couple on the Muir. 10 people on Zodiac, more than the Nose! Two teams of 5 though(party on!). Sky Detray is leading an all veteran assent of Zodiac. Mescalito has still only seen one human all year....pretty quiet.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Super smokey today. Check the webcam before coming up if you're flexible with your dates. Cool red Sun out there but not that much fun to exercise in.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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It's more clear today than yesterday.
Looks like a couple more parties queing up for Zodiac, and Nose is getting it a bit. Otherwise pretty quiet.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Isn't "Working at El Cap Bridge," an oxymoron?
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Ikat
Social climber
Carson City
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It's an ugly job, but someone's gotta do it.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I don't have first hand knowledge about what Klaus is pissed about, but in general terms:
also pretty clear Anyone that puts bolts at belays, drills lines of
holes up blank rock has many a bolt to stand on, but not a high ethical pillar to call out from.
Someone who has the reputation of putting up very difficult lines in great style is exactly the kind of person who has a high ethical ground to speak from. There's a huge difference between putting in bolts on an FA and adding bolts to someone else's climb. If this in fact happened.
but while we are acting all preschool-what is wrong
with power drilling?
Power drilling in a national park wilderness areas is illegal and jeopardizes access and current fixed anchor policy for all of us.
And do you think you own a rock cause you climbed
it first? That is a good one
When you put up an FA you have a reasonable expectation that it will be left in it's original condition as much as possible to preserve the challenge you had the opportunity to climb. Replacing a difficult move that could be one of the most memorable highlights of a climb for future climbers with a forgettable A0 bolt move isn't cool. A climb is also a testament to the vision and ability of the FAist. Yeah it bums me out there are moderate climbs done as a free solo that I'll never be able to do, but I wouldn't consider adding bolts so I could do it, I'd just hike farther out and find my own FA to do in a style that matches my ability.
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