retro bolting- colorado

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goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 02:44pm PT

Well go count all the routes at the Sport Park in your guide and let's go from there.

Why do you feel so threatened?

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 02:46pm PT

Thank you Blah..a voice of reason and experience.

I come across as a little agressive as I refuse to take or believe sh#t went I know they are wrong. Eric is wrong.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 02:48pm PT

Eric wrote: Well go count all the routes at the Sport Park in your guide and let's go from there.

Bullshit Eric....who did you toprope all those routes with...you are digging yourself a deeper hole...stop now, you might save a little face.

Eric wrote: Why do you feel so threatened?

I called bullshit on what you wrote...you are wrong and you know. This is a witch hunt.

You insulted Chris and his job...do you actually know him?

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 02:50pm PT

No Bob, there are a lot of routes that have been cut down by bolts.

Sorry you feel differently but just for shits and giggles how many bolts have been added to Castle Rock since the FA's?

I'll do a count when I get off from work but since you're the expert you should know off the top of your head.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 02:52pm PT

Blah wrote: There are rare cases where someone put a "new" line in that an old fart later claims he did in the 70s or whatever, oftentimes the old fart seems to be mistaken, and no one else really gives a damn. If you want to pretend that someone bolting a line that may have been done decades ago, but probably wasn't, and is never climbed now, is the same as retrebolting B-Y, have fun.)
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze

Classic...I was accuse of retro-bolting a route in Boulder Canyon and got hammer on MP...I ask the person or people who were doing the hammering to prove that the route was done before. No takers...just hot air...kind of like Eric.

Kurt...you should call Chris and get the full story then base an opinion upon that.

Funny in this day of being PC that by calling someone on their bullshit you are called violent or agressive.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 02:59pm PT

Dude, you're foaming at the mouth and not even quoting me but Blahblah.

Seriously settle down before your heart assplodes.
The majority of the Sport Park was top ropes set up between the '70's and early '90's. I climbed them with Mark Kelly, Oxana Medved, and Anita Allen.

Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?

In addition Tarbuster and I climbed a bunch of stuff just here and there in that canyon that Roy spotted along with Stich over the years that wasn't worth reporting to you or MP because we could care less about reporting it to the masses, wild thought I know but we did it for fun, not spray or adulation.

I'm not here to judge but remember when we retrobolted those top ropes in the South Platte on rappel just because we wanted to climb right now. Remember that toprope I pointed out to you that became a fat bolt climb the next month.

Tell us your version of climbs lead in the South Platte?
Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:07pm PT

I wouldn't call a guy of Bob's caliber names, but I'm surprised that he doesn't seem to think talking to the FA guy matters.

Bob, is there a bolting project you wouldn't defend?

I can't think of any in reading your stuff for years.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:08pm PT

Eric..I think you are full of sh#t. You don't climb 5.12 or even 5.11, most of the new routes at the Sport Park are that grade and above...they were cleaned heavily, some were chipped and glued which I do NOT agree with or do.

I never like the Sport Park and did most of the routes as first hand info for the guide. The Sport Park is a dead horse that has been beaten a thousand times over. Let it go.

Most of routes at Tonnere Tower were clean heavily with no chipping or glueing. It is the nature of a lot of new routes in the canyon that goes back to the early 80's.

If you do drive by every day you will see many climbers there enjoying the routes and also see that most of the "green" is back along the base of the routes.

nature

climber

Boulder, CO

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:15pm PT

On the other hand if the EDGE gets retro-bolted there will be hell to pay.

Uh oh.... I guess I shouldn't disclose what I've been up to ;-)

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:15pm PT

Survival wrote: Bob, is there a bolting project you wouldn't defend?

I can't think of any in reading your stuff for years.

Also I would always ask permission to retro-bolt a route...too many of mine have been but I still seem to live through it. :-)

I started climbing 71 and still climb trad and sport. I don't believe in retro-bolting WITHOUT the FA or community approval, but that is just my opinion.

I don't believe in witch hunts on the internet as it has happened to me by many people like Eric who don't have the full story or who just wants to start sh#t.

I take a lot darts in the back maybe because I do a lot, I just don't like it when they come from those who don't know what they are talking about.

Maybe Eric and Kurt should form an opinion after getting the full story from Chris.

Funny to see Eric name call and be a wise ass on the internet...real tough guy.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:22pm PT

Maybe Eric and Kurt should form an opinion after getting the full story from Chris.

You mean the full story from Thom AND Chris?

I agree Bob, but it sounds like Chris never even got the the full story dosen't it ?

JakeW

Big Wall climber

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

Same ol lame debate. Different philosophies, practically different sports.

A lot more people climb for fun(positive emotions) nowadays than to almost die(negative emotions) and get a big rush out of it(kind of positive in contrast to just experienced negativity)...and if that's what they want most just go soloing.

Claiming "standard setting" is hilarious when its just the poor engineering of some heinous route that no one wants to climb and can't even see a solid onsight attempt cuz its so weird, dirty, and originally aided/hangdogged then headpointed...or toproped if it was the yoyo days.

It seems so funny to seek out something that most/all other people don't want to do, and then prop yourself up on a pedestal for it. Seems really easy to find things to do that no one else wants to do...why do people think this is cool? "Hey I did this new route that will scare you and you probably won't have fun. Its rad and so am I. Oh, by the way its really dirty and poorly engineered cuz I just aided up it, wired it, and sent it without really caring if it was ever onsightable or worth repeating."

I've talked to so many old/bold climbers that now wish they'd put up more GOOD routes and less CRAZY and UNREPEATED routes. They realize you actually get more admiration, respect, and thanks when that's what you do...which was what the ego was originally seeking by getting all bold and spraying about it.

But I dig a nice traumatizing runout once in a while. They're good for satisfying those repressed warrior needs in our overly secure world here. However, I've learned they happen enough on accident without intentionally seeking them out, much less creating them. I did create a few in the past, almost cried in the moment then acted all tough later.

I've met Chris before. I don't really know him at all but he seems to be quite solid, and probably isn't afraid of occasional run outs. He's climbed with this guy named Honnold quite a bit.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

Kp wrote: You mean the full story from Thom AND Chris?

I agree Bob, but it sounds like Chris never even got the the full story dosen't it ?

I agree...from both. I don't think it was ever clear if the route was completed ground up on lead.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:25pm PT

Climbed 5.12 last month Bob, and if I fold my dick in half its only 6 inches.

While we are at it, how many 14er's have you skied?
How many miles can you swim in open water?
I'm up to four.

Seriously I gotta get back to work, toodles old man.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:26pm PT

Eric wrote: While we are at it, how many 14er's have you skied?
How many miles can you swim in open water?
I'm up to four.

We are not talking about those activities here...are we?

Nice try macho man.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:28pm PT

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Dude, you're foaming at the mouth and not even quoting me but Blahblah.

Seriously settle down before your heart assplodes.
The majority of the Sport Park was top ropes set up between the '70's and early '90's. I climbed them with Mark Kelly, Oxana Medved, and Anita Allen.

Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?

In addition Tarbuster and I climbed a bunch of stuff just here and there in that canyon that Roy spotted along with Stich over the years that wasn't worth reporting to you or MP because we could care less about reporting it to the masses, wild thought I know but we did it for fun, not spray or adulation.

I'm not here to judge but remember when we retrobolted those top ropes in the South Platte on rappel just because we wanted to climb right now. Remember that toprope I pointed out to you that became a fat bolt climb the next month.

Tell us your version of climbs lead in the South Platte?
Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:28pm PT

Great post Jake.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:30pm PT

You're ignoring my questions Bolting Bob.

Edit, Ron I'm very gentle and caring in real life.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2013 - 03:30pm PT

Go back to work Eric...do something productive.

Eric...what is with the name calling? I don't have to answer any of your questions...I called bullshit on your post...and it was.

What I have done in climbing in Colorado and many other places in pretty common knowledge. Never sneaky...I always put it out there.