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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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Just took the plunge on an Edelweiss Curve 9.8 mm x 70 meter rope from Bent Gate in Golden, Colorado.
Will report back after I take it out climbing. This is a 9-fall rated rope, with 33% dynamic elongation. The Edelrid equivalent rope was the Heron, which is only 8-fall rated with the same dynamic elongation. Price is a bit higher for the Edelweiss, though. I've had a lot of good luck with their ropes in the past, and my currently in-use 10 mm x 60 meter rope is an Edelweiss.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:07am PT
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Suggestions? Lead everything with it noose-tied around your neck.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:05am PT
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Yikes!. I can't believe y'all keep recommending that Maxim Glider. Am I the only one who hates it? Absolutely the worst rope investment I ever made in my life. Don't do it! I've got a 60m 10.2 I'll give away to anyone who wants to pay the shipping. Don't make me link my gear review...
Edit @Rudder... I'm dead serious.. do you want it?^^^
Personally, I stick with the old faithfuls. Sterling or Mammut. Last two have been Sterlings and I have zero complaints.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:30am PT
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just doing a butterfly coil is tiring. :-)
True that. My hands can't get around the last 20-30 feet.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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^"bump" it up onto your wrist/forearm...then your hand will be free to coil the remaining meters.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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New England Maxim Glider 9.9x70 Bi-pattern, dry rope, 1 over 1 sheath weaving.
I've had 2 and will always stick with them. Made in USA too.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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I've been very happy with my Edelweiss 10mm x 60 meter rope, which led to my recent purchase of the 9.8 mm x 70 meter. My recent European excursion has delayed my use of the new rope, and bad weather is now upon us. I've decided to buy another Edelweiss in a contrasting color at 9.8 mm x 70 meters, based on a favorable rating given me by several of their employees while visiting Neptune's in Boulder recently.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Oct 18, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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JUSTTHEMAID, yes, I'll take it. :)
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Oct 18, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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I've had 2 Maxim gliders.
The first one was great, lasted like crazy, still does occasional TR duty,
The second not so much, was a fuzzed out mess in a year, then I destroyed it by sloppy hauling.
Skinny ropes= hard on the hands IMO.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Oct 18, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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Blue Water has a line of long lasting, incredible ropes.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Bump because
I need a 70 bi-pattern for trad and sport, between 9.2 and 9.8. Any new ideas? There was a thread a while back but I couldnt find it in search. Thanks! Hoping to catch some end of season sales.
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couchmaster
climber
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My son just gave me a bi-pattern Edelweiss 9.8mm. I FRIGGAN LOVE IT. Too cheap to buy it myself, and the pup knows it. He got a pro deal so it's not like he's rich or nothin....I also have a 9.1 x 70m Beal Joker. Pairs nice with the 9.8 if we need to rappel long stretches. Jokers are not bi-pattern however, and the middle mark wears off fairly quickly. (insert sad emoji here)
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I've only led on a 70 meter rope a couple times. In June I led the very-well bolted 4 pitch sport route Theatre of Shadows, at City of Rocks. Mark & I knew we would need a lot of quickdraws, and I skipped a few bolts. No problems, no extra rope-drag with his skinny new Edelrid.
In August, Mark & I climbed an old trad route near McCall Idaho that we had considered a climb you dragged girlfriends or novices up back in the 1980's. In August, I usually ran out the full 70 meters, but on one of the crux pitches, I ran out of most of my pro, long before the logical end of the 70 meter lead.
Duh! The rack that I've been carrying for 50 meter ropes from 1980 to 2010 & the newer rack I've been carrying with double mid-range Camalots & double old Chouinard stoppers, for 60 meter ropes from 2011 to now, does not extend to a difficult 70 meter lead for old guys, that want to place pro every 10-15 feet or so.
Duh!
My reward was a long runout above the crux move, that I did protect very well, and a single blue Camalot & jammed biner belay.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I don't know about that jammed biner, but that cam looks like it would hold a truck.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I second that if you are going to invest in a good tool, go all the way. Bi-Pattern and dry treated, if you go alpinaneering.
I like Sterling, USA made (Still? yes?) and extremely durable. Maxim is a close second for extreme durability, the glider is an awesome feeling line.
Pretty much all modern ropes are wet dream inducing....
Big Mike - The Glider Galaxy bi pattern 70m is my current rope, freaking bombproof.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 01:47am PT
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I have a 70m Mammut Infinity. 9.5mm, iirc. I love it. It's super smooth, feeds well, coils/packs well, nice and light. I've only had it since April, so I can't speak 100% towards its durability, but I've been beating the hell out of it sport climbing and TRing and it still feels and looks great. My only complaint is that it isn't bi-pattern. I didn't realize how much I'd miss that until I didn't have it.
2 1/2 years later still loving my smooth Mammut. Lacking bi-pattern, a bit of climbers tape at the middle has served well as an obvious middle marker.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 03:28am PT
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Metolius ropes. Very good. Made by Tendon Ropes (Czech?) Anyway, Im on my third, (9.8mm and a fat one at that) as durable or better than anything else, no need to spend extra cash on bi weave, it has a neon tassel in the middle that you can see and feel go through your belay device. I plan to buy a fourth. Worth a look.
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