Seeking Calaveras Dome Beta

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Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Feb 23, 2015 - 08:49pm PT

I will be at Cal Dome March 6 to 9 anyone wanna do Sands Of Time? I will lead all the easy pitches.
;0

Trublucali

Trad climber

Gold River

Mar 3, 2015 - 01:34pm PT

I believe this is "Dynamite Crack" located on a boulder below Upper Sargeant rock. Bad need of some brushing...

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Mar 3, 2015 - 05:02pm PT

Trublucali,

I cant be sure if its Dynamite but it looks more like what I remember. Is the boulder undercut at the bottom and overhanging to the top? Does it appear to be at least mid range 5.12? If not, you might have a new one there.
Not sure that it would' grown in like that but maybe so if its not been climbed on much.

Thanks for the picture.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 06:20pm PT

Anyone been down Ellis road recently? Is it open? Heading up for the weekend!

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 06:30pm PT

Anyone ever climb on this little gem, it is just behind the dam at Salt Springs. Google earth shows some possible lines of weakness.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 06:32pm PT

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Mar 3, 2015 - 07:19pm PT

When I was down there a lot word was that Bob Parrot did a 5.11/5.12 route on that dome. That was in the mid/early eighties.

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

Mar 3, 2015 - 08:43pm PT

Yes Highgloss. Climbed up a little over a pitch with Smith and Obanhein in 1980. We were in a steep corner with a sizable roof above climbing via liebacks and stemming. The crack eventually pinched down smaller than fingers and lack of pins and bolts forced retreat in the face of some very runout 5.11 above. I dont know if those guys ever went back, I didn't.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 10:02pm PT

Epic. Thanks for sharing!

Trublucali

Trad climber

Wilton

Mar 3, 2015 - 10:04pm PT

Ellis Road's open...last weekend though I drove through several inches of fresh snow, not doable w/o 4x4. It melted off during the day and was not in the Valley proper. Climbing on Cal Dome would be quite a cold adventure at this time...keep that in mind.

JS

Hickicick

climber

Mar 25, 2015 - 10:52am PT

Any updates on conditions for the road and the rock?

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Mar 25, 2015 - 12:06pm PT

Both are present. :)

Hickicick

climber

Mar 25, 2015 - 09:28pm PT

Thanks breh. I guess more specifically I was wondering if ellis road was good to go. Should be heading in this weekend for the first time and I'm stoked!