Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
Nov 12, 2017 - 12:17pm PT
|
A trip from Molde to Åndalsnes to Trolltindene.
Molde in Norway
The trip from Molde to Trollveggen
Molde
Aandalsnes
From Tony Howard's 1966 guide to Romsdal
|
|
katiebird
climber
yosemite
|
|
Nov 12, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
|
https://vimeo.com/231920007]
We spent about 2 weeks there this past July. We were very fortunate with weather and climbed everything we wanted and then some.
The granite is some of the best I’ve climbed - very clean, very textured.
Preston is an obvious must climb formation amongst many other routes .There is some really good sport climbing around and the bouldering is amazing.
We took a ferry out to Reine and did some routes as well - this is a cool experience and so beautiful. Highly recommended.
We also climbed Storpillaren - an awesome day
24 hours of daylight - is very liberating.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Nov 12, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
|
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
Nov 13, 2017 - 08:58am PT
|
Katiebird: That's a fantastic video. TFPU
Troll Wall
The Troll Wall was first climbed in 1965 by a Norwegian team. The Norwegian team, consisting of Ole Daniel Enersen, Leif Norman Patterson, Odd Eliassen, and Jon Teigland, finished one day ahead of the British climbers Tony Howard, John Amatt and Bill Tweedale, who established the most popular climbing route on the wall, the Rimmon Route. As of 2003, this route was reported unclimbable because a rockfall in September 1998 destroyed five of its pitches.
The wall saw its first winter ascent in March 1974, when Wojciech Kurtyka from Poland spent 13 days repeating the 1967 French Route.
In 1979, the wall was free climbed for the first time by local climber Hans Christian Doseth and Ragnhild Amundsen.
Today, there are many routes on the wall, ranging in length and difficulty. The classic Rimmon and Swedish routes were normally free climbed in a day or two until being heavily damaged by the 1998 rock falls. The longer and more engaging aid routes, such as the 1972 test piece Arch Wall (climbed by Ed and Hugh Drummond in 20 days), or the 1986 Death to All/Pretty Blond Vikings, which cuts through the steepest part of the wall, require advanced knowledge of big wall climbing and several days on the wall.
Due to the serious character of the wall, in addition to a cold and damp climate, new routes on Troll Wall are rare. In February 2002, a Russian team established the Krasnoyarsk Route during 19 days. The 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) long Krasnoyarsk, graded f6c+/A4+, is generally thought to be the hardest aid route on the wall and was awarded first prize in the 2002 All Russia Winter Mountaineering Championships.
In July 2010, Arch Wall, previously a serious aid route of difficulty up to A4+, saw its first all-free ascent by local climber Sindre Sæther and his father, Ole Johan. Arch Wall is about 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) of climbing over 37 pitches, and it took the two a total of 36 hours of climbing to reach the summit.
In July 2012, Sindre and Ole Johan Sæther repeated the feat by free climbing the Krasnoyarsk Route.
The most recent contribution to climbs on the Troll Wall is Katharsis, established by Polish climbers Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski over 18 days in January and February 2015. According to Planetmountain.com, the new route shares the first two pitches of the French Route, before forging a line between the Russian Route and Arch Wall. The team reported of difficulties up to A4/M7.
On 11-26 January 2017 Polish climber Marek Raganowicz made the first solo ascents wall in winter.
A video from the FA: https://www.nrk.no/video/PS*218376
FA of Trollveggen 1965: Eliassen, Patterson, Teigland, Enersen
The British team who reached the top soon after
|
|
Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
|
|
Nov 13, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
|
Trolls can be a problem, especially the mountain trolls
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
Nov 13, 2017 - 05:23pm PT
|
Cool history and a great video from Katie bump
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
Nov 13, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
|
great vid, tfpu!
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
Nov 14, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
|
hey there say, marlow... wow, very very nice photo shares, here...
thank you very very much...enjoyed these...
:)
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Nov 14, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
|
Great article, Anders! They did a great job reproducing those photos!
Liked this line:
"Det kan ikke ha vært flere jomfruer i Muhammeds himmel enn det var ubestegne vegger i Romsdalen.
There can not have been more virgins in Muhammed's heaven than there
were unclimbed walls in Romsdalen.
Sounds like heaven to me!
BTW, I, of course, knew of Leif in Seattle but I never knew whether he
was born in Norway or Canada.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
|
|
Nov 14, 2017 - 11:16pm PT
|
Leif was, of all things, born in Hammond, Indiana, in 1934. His father was working there. It's probably best to describe him as Norwegian-American - he did the required service in the Norwegian military, but also did his doctorate at MIT. So was probably eligible for both a Norwegian and a USA passport, at a time when you couldn't have both. But in the late 1960s he and Marijke settled south of Golden, BC. Somewhere I have a letter from him about this.
|
|
tallguy
Trad climber
tacoma
|
|
Mar 13, 2018 - 10:23pm PT
|
Resurrecting this thread.. I will be in lofoten this july doing some climbing and touring. Anyone have the lofoten climbing guidebook they are willing to part with? Looking for one.
Would also love recommendations for 5.9-10 climbs.. especially climbs or areas beyond the obvious ones. Doing a bodo lofoten bodo loop over 3 weeks or so.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 13, 2018 - 10:55pm PT
|
If yer tall go do the Sydpillaren on Stetind. You could cut the number of
pitches in half with a good reach. :-)
|
|
tallguy
Trad climber
tacoma
|
|
Mar 14, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
|
Thanks Johnokner,
I was wondering about the grades, 10d can go either way for me in a legit trad area. Soft grades give me a bit more confidence to jump on that. Thanks for the recommendations..
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Mar 14, 2018 - 06:53pm PT
|
Yes, the Katie Lambert video is a peach!
She says:
It's like, I don't know if you can expect for something to be so spectacular.
Yo, Reilly, come at me bro: how many languages do you read?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 15, 2018 - 08:42am PT
|
Tar, as long as I avoid Asia I won’t miss my train or mis-order from the menu, although I did
suffer momentary confusion upon seeing Spotted Dick on the menu in Olde Blighty last year!
|
|
tallguy
Trad climber
tacoma
|
|
Mar 15, 2018 - 09:19pm PT
|
Awesome john, would appreciate that...
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
Mar 25, 2018 - 09:47am PT
|
Yes, "Bare Blåbær" can be translated to "Just Blue berry". When Norwegians say "Bare Blåbær" they usually mean "Easy"...
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 25, 2018 - 10:24am PT
|
En glente var sett i går nær Farsund lufthavn!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|