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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Try climbing over guides on the regular route up the Matterhorn. These so-called tourist routes are a horror show.
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local1
Mountain climber
CH
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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MOUNT EVEREST, NEPAL
At about 8am on 27th April 2013 Simone Moro (IT), Ueli Steck (CH), and Jonathan Griffith (UK) left Camp 2 to reach a tent at around 7200m (lower Camp 3) on the Lhotse Face of Mount Everest. A team of high altitude sherpas were 'fixing' the Lhotse face and the climbers were asked to not touch the fixed ropes they were establishing. As such the trio climbed about 50m away and to the side of the Sherpa team to avoid disturbing them in their work. It should be noted that all three climbers have extensive climbing experience all over the world and were very aware of the work being carried out by the Sherpas and the respect given to them for it.
When the three climbers reached the height of their already established tent, they traversed across the snow and were forced to step over the lines of the Sherpas to reach their tent about 20 meters to the side. The climbers chose to step across the lines at a belay stance where 4 other sherpas were attached to the ice face whilst their lead climber continued to fix the line above. Stepping over the lines does not interfere in any way with the work being carried out. The climbers were soloing and not using ropes so there was no rope tangling either. In addition by passing beneath the lead climber no ice or snow could be knocked down on him.
Jonathan Griffith was in the lead at this point and after crossing the rope and traversing another 15 meters on a snow ramp Ueli Steck followed. At the point where Ueli Steck stepped over the rope the lead climber noticed the climbers below and began shouting and banging the ice with his axe erratically. Still shouting down at the climbers, he fixed his rope and abseiled down to the belay stance. As Ueli was soloing and therefore not attached to a rope it was natural that he should hold his hands up to take the impact of the force arriving on him form the lead climber abseiling right on to him. This prompted the lead climber to accuse Ueli Steck of 'touching him'. In between hitting the ice with all his force and screaming at Ueli Steck 'why you touch me' he said that they had kicked ice down on them and injured a Sherpa. Seeing as the trio were climbing a completely independent line and entirely on snow this is highly unlikely.
Ueli Steck tried to help calm the situation by offering to help fix the lines up to Camp 3 but this only made matters worse. Simone Moro then joined the team and the lead climber turned on him wielding his ice axe in his direction. Simone swore at the lead climber as is the natural reaction when faced with this aggression. No amount of talking would calm the lead Sherpa down and as a final act of defiance he ordered his whole team of 17 Sherpas off the Lhotse Face and back to Camp 2. There was no reason to descend off the mountain because of the three climbers. They had not touched or interfered with the Sherpa's work. To help smooth things over Ueli Steck fixed a further 260m of rope to Camp 3.
By the time the climbers descended back to Camp 2 some 100 Sherpas had grouped together and attacked the three climbers. They became instantly aggressive and not only punched and kicked the climbers, but threw many rocks as well. A small group of Westerners acted as a buffer between the out of control mob and the climbers, and they owe their lives to these brave and selfless people. Nevertheless all three climbers were attacked as well as many of the Westerners who were trying to calm the situation down. The climbers were told that by that night one of themwould be dead and the other two they would see to later. After about 50 minutes the crowd had calmed down and the climbers, who had been pushed away and told to hide, had regrouped and were told that if they weren't gone in one hour that they would all be killed.
The climbers packed the bare essentials and made a circuitous route back down to the base of Mount Everest in heavily crevassed terrain with no rope on, feeling that given the current situation this was the safest place to be.
The Sherpas said that the reason they attacked the climbers was because they had knocked ice down on a Sherpa below. As it stands no Sherpa has come forward to show any injury. Furthermore on an ice face getting hit by chunks of ice is a very natural occurrence. The climbers believe that the lead Sherpa was tired and cold and felt that his pride had been damaged as the three climbers were moving unroped and much faster to the side of him. Whatever the reason may be, there is no reason to instigate vigilante rule and to try and kill three visiting climbers.
The Nepalese authorities have taken the matter very seriously as have commercial teams on the mountain. At the moment the 3 ring leaders have been taken off the mountain and the Police, Ministry of Tourism and the head of the Sherpa Association are investigating.
The three climbers feel that they don't believe that their actions were the reasons behind such a mass attack. They believe that the reaction was from a far more deep rooted and long term problem, which is the way that Nepalis feel treated by Westerners on the mountain and this was a uprising against that. The three climbers are completely independent and not part of any commercial expedition.
The three climbers would like to extend a huge thank you to all those who saved their lives at Camp 2 and to those who are now taking over the investigation.
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local1
Mountain climber
CH
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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He concludes, "to me multiple mistakes were made from both sides".........."The professional climbers involved could have and should have chosen somewhere else to acclimatize on this day, instead of solo climbing above the rope fixing team".......
They were on the way to their tent, beyound the C3 - they had to cross the fixed lines. Where else to go and besides, the mountain doesen't belong to someone.
I double Jan's insights as I am in contact with the guys - it is more behind then a crossing of fixed lines
Sad story! If you know Ueli and the others you would know, that they give big respect to the work of the sherpas.
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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"It's so crowded, nobody goes anymore"...Yogi Bera. Jan is correct Everest is a money machine for the Govt. of Nepal. But if the Ministry of Tourism keeps over booking the south side, they will have essentially crapped in their own messkit. Even fit non climbing athletic types will forego attempting Everest with a trekking co should this keep up. That photo of the line up last year did not do the ministry much good. Now this. But then again maybe most paying to jug the SCol route just see at it as another athletic event like the Iron Man etc where they are used to being in crowds. And it is Everest. Sure isn't climbing to me.
There is a beautiful mountain just down the way on the Tibetan border. Gyachung Kang. It has a south facing spur that looks like the Walker and has huge faces. The cool thing is that on the summit your feet are under 8000m but your head is almost at 8000m. Do a shoulder stand and your there. No fights on that mountain.
Jan also has it on another point as well. The Sherpas see self sustaining alpine expeds as a threat, financially. Therefore a threat to their way of life. Unfortunately this is not limited to Everest. Seen it first hand and long before this.
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jschaefer
Sport climber
Munich, Germany
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Oh, isn't Mr Wool Stick the cousin of Mr. Yvon Clochard, the famous clothing expert?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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By the crowded standards of the Alps, climbing over people and their ropes is ok. The Sherpas however, come from a different culture and I'm sure, feel their perogatives, responsibilities, and livelihood are threatened by do it yourself crews. They come from a culture of hierarchy, protocol, and face saving, all of which were ignored.
That sounds pretty true. But to resort to gang mentality and outright thuggery when the guys returned to camp 2? It seems they HAD to know that it wouldn't go well for them in the long run.
And people wonder why I go SO FAR out of my way to avoid climbing above or beneath other parties. A mini example that rears it's head is our climb of Birdland last year. Parties came up beneath us, one accused us of not yelling rope as we descended to the side of them, then they dropped a piece of gear on us as we continued down the wall. Some choice words were shared by all......
Everest is the ATM of the Nepali government. Put westerners in, take money out. Sherpas stuck in the middle.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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It always takes two to tango.
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weezy
climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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i see this becoming a thing. UFC meets alpinism. let's breath some life back into the biggest chosspile on the planet. two men climb up and square off with ice axes at each camp. three minute rounds, points for every good "stick". whoever doesn't die, wins. redbull needs to get on this sh#t.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
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We should send in the Drones.
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orle
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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Ever wondered how he solos up steep ice like that, getting every axe placement right on the first swing?
Wool Sticks
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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Bottom line:
Because of many circumstances such as the greed of the Nepal government in issuing so many permits to the perceived cache of climbing to the highest point on earth, etc.... Mount Everest can't really be seen as a true mountaineering challenge where all normal rules apply. It's a circus and because of that circus rules (AKA free for all) apply.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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moro is working for fishtail air services as of last year. Prolly repacing the pilot that was killed rescuing two climbers from the summit of ama dablam.one of them was one of the giri boys. they were trying a skid landing ,got a roter strike, and tumbled down the mountain. next guy pullrd it off with a long line. amazing that it actually worked the first time.....the climbers were just devastated
i think that they were climbing the Humar route, got to within 300 feet of the top and found unconsolidated snow and could climb no further. these days you can have a nepali cell phone and they used it to call a rescue.The guys at the hotel in namche knew that pilot....they said he was nuts
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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So is Ueli Moro and Griffith coming down and not gonna go on with their plan? That would suck.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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It was Aleister Crowley with a revolver on K2.
Oh, I thought we were playing CLUE.
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orle
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Woolister Cowleg in punch-up with guides above 7000ft!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 29, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
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My ol' climbing buddy is up on Everest right now. I'll see if I can get in touch with him for the low down.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Apr 29, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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Everest Blog. Maybe the 1st satellite image of recent Kung Fu fighting
on the Lhotse face above Camp II ?
Unidentified climber (Wool Stick?) negotiates right of way with Sherpa
guides.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Apr 29, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
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Everest sounds so horrible. I don't ever want to go there.
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