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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 30, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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Let me know if you do, Jay! Unfortunately, the smoke from the Aspen fire is so thick, I can barely see to the foothills today, but for the last two weeks I've had a great view of the western end of the Bluffs on my drive home.
John
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Hi Clint,
I'm sorry, a couple of corrections it seems, my wife clued me in on. It seems that my right hemisphere just fills in the blanks with no apparent reason sometimes. I do beg your pardon.
The route that I had labeled Kibbles and Bits turned out to be Knobbles and Bits. This route and the route Knobblely Dogs was put up in April of 1992.
It seems that the left and right most routes on the One Pitch Wonder rocks were done in May 92.
The right most route is called The Price is Right, and was done by Chambers, and Bruce Price. Not Bruce Boe as I had originally labeled.
And the Welcome to Wedding Wall route was done in April 92 as well. One thing I do remember is that the late Eric Brand and Herb Laeger(he is still with us) were putting up, with a Bosch, the route that was to the immediate left of the route we were on. I don't think I'm making this part up.
Good luck,
Two-shoes
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cool sh#t, climbing related, style bump!
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 30, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
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Bump to hear anyone who went up this winter. Almost getting too hot to head up there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 30, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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That place looks really awesome.
Clint great job on the guide.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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May 25, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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I just happened to remember, when we first came across that One Pitch Wonder crag, Kevin Ludwig immediately free-soloed the center most chimney and down climbed the right most chimney. It could have been in the reverse order though? I think he did that while wearing converse high-tops. Two days later he free-soloed the Big Swaaa after top roping it the previous day. He shoed up for that one and actually tied his shoes. He used to boulder out some amazing things while wearing his tennies or not even pulling his laces tight on his climbing shoes. He never does anything that rad or scary anymore.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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May 27, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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Cool Berry. So between Knobblely Dogs and Knobbles & Bits we have Ledwig Rising and between Knobbles & Bits & The Price is Right we have Downward Dog-Ledwig??? Haha
Thanks for the info. I figured those had been climbed. There is a book to the right of Probably Did that must have been done as well.
PS Berry, You taught Jake well.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cool content bump
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nice work Clint. That's a big area with great rock.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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wooty woot woot, Things to keep The training stoke High - thnxs Clint!
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Jaybro and DMT
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:30am PT
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That place looks amazing!
I hate ticks.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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Did the recent fires clear out any of the PO and brush that guards the approach?????
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Bump for any activity up there. Duck season is over so my eyes are on the hills. Once in shape I think a few visits will be in order with all the snow blocked roads higher up.
Clint, You can add Ludwig's solos up and down the two chimneys on OPW that Barry mentioned a couple posts back. I don't have a clue for ratings.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Mar 22, 2016 - 08:11am PT
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Had a great time at Patterson with Paul Amico this last Sunday. Always amazed at the amount of rock up there.
Had to work Saturday so we didn't get on the road until 4:45pm. Sent off texts to friends to make them jealous. Had enough time to drive around and scout before dark. All the creeks and falls are getting after it up there and are beautiful.
Since we only had about half a day we decided on Down Under Dome.
Scored my favorite camp spot overlooking a stream but was really sad to see all of the dead trees in the area.
The fire had only burned on the opposite side of the gorge. We had a nice fire in the burn barrel with good drinks along with salad and BBQ venison, tooo good. I forgot my insulated bibs so I scrounged one of my wife's Easter table clothes once the wind kicked up.
After morning coffee and breakfast we parked off the road above the DU dome and rapped off the bumper to find the top anchors of No Oaky I helped put up in 13' with Matt Schutz and Danny Grey. I had forgotten my ropes so I rapped on a fixed 30m and found it didn't reach the anchors from the truck bumper by about 10'-15'. Tied on another shorty and made it. Paul followed to the anchors.
Rapped down 90' to a pillar to climbers right of No Oakey and found a nice ledge. I was surprised to find an old 1/4" leeper on the top of the ledge which looked to have been used to rap down after climbing to the top from one of several different ways.
Paul rapped down as well and we pulled the rope. I had planned to rap down to the ground and climb up to the ledge but it was beyond dirty with wet moss, DG and trees. Probably will go back and clean it when it is not wet.
Only option was up off the ledge. Headed up and left slightly then up a white streak and eventually placed some anchors. Placed 3 bolts on the lead and had 2 cam placements. Called it Sunday Funday 5.7; 105'.
We rapped back down because Paul wanted to climb another line. He is new to FAs but has caught the bug. He TRd the line and I did also. Found a pretty succulent on the route.
We talked and discussed the best places for bolts and I bolted it on rap. It went 5.8 with 4 bolts and a slung knob for 105'. Paul lead it out and called it Tickle My Tick Head for the tick I had to dig out of his leg with a knife that morning.
Sun had heated the rock and us. It was time for beer and snacks so we headed up and out. Scouted more on the drive back and took plenty of pics. Great time with perfect weather and many lines to return to.
Sunday Funday 5.7, 105', 3x gear to 3", FA: Fries/Amico 03/20/16
Tickle My Tick Head 5.8, 105' & shares anchor with Funday, 4x and knob sling, FA: Amico/Fries 03/20/16.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 17, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
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Made it up this last Friday for Paul's b-day. Everything was wet except these pillars just below the second bridge which we called Rebar Pillars. TR's the right one (#3) and found it a fun .9 with a couple.10 moves depending on which way you went. There is a bolted climb there with 3 toward the bottom and 1 more above it, most looked like they needed replacing. We used the rebar and a cam for anchor but later placed a set of anchor bolts for future parties. Climb is a full 100'+ and needed the full 70m to rap and TR it.
Set a pair of anchors bolts on the left pillar and rapped. Found a couple old bolts with no hangers (noted on picture) on the rap. The climb following the bolts (#1) is a .9/.10 and if you stay to the right side (#2) you get to play in a crack for a bit and then thin face in the .10a/b range. The greenery at the base to the right of #2 is poison oak. (70m rope required for TR)
Paul & I added a direction for TR on top of #1 for future parties. Fun routes which had a little loose stuff but overall great fun. Further left is a huge rebar handle you can TR a short steep 35'-40' rock.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 17, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
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Route plant is a Dudleya cymosa, aka liveforever. Thanks for the photo.
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