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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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You see what happens when you get old, Rich?
We become illegitimate.
;>(
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Johnny on the spot! much respect.
but how transferable is this skill? I do as much ice climbing as rock, and I see it more applicable to ice, but even there the skill doesn't strike me as all that useful. [but I can't do a single rep, so what do I know]
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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I used to be able to do one where the arm doing the pullup was actually grabbing the lose arm's wrist. I called the it zBrown's Mobius. Had to quit because the audience got too confused.
Fulls or partials?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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I could do three with left arm and two with right arm. The stars for that were not aligned very long, though lots of bouldering helped.
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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has any legit climber showed off this stunt? for some reason, I can't even imagine Bachar or some Euro-waif firing a single rep [Click to View YouTube Video]
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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but how transferable is this skill?
Occasionally it might help on a longer climb, but for several years I had a goal of minimizing contact with the rock when bouldering - a very peculiar approach to the sport which never caught on. Instead boulderers plaster every part of the body onto the rock in order to raise difficulty levels.
It's more a part of bodyweight exercise, challenging in that athletic arena (see Frank Medrano) but having limited transfer to the rock.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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So I can do one arms with both arms, but not from full hanging.
I found trick is to start the thing with your lat/back muscles, to slightly rotate your arm and get it bent, then bring the bicep in to play. Palm out version. I'm right handed and my left arm was quite a bit weaker than my right. I had to concentrate more with my left and was able to do them first with my left. Concentration curls help.Try practicing the start and finish separately. Good luck
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2014 - 01:30am PT
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has any legit climber showed off this stunt? for some reason, I can't even imagine Bachar or some Euro-waif firing a single rep
Well, what we have here is a failure of imagination.
Of course Bachar could do one-arms, as the video posted above by Rudbud shows. So that leaves us with the Euro-waifs. Does Fred Nicole qualify? One-arm one-pinky pullup anyone?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Here is Magnus Midtbø, Norway's best climber. He ended 4th in the last World championship.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
A quote from Chris Sharma (dunno...is he a "legit" climber?)
"Some holds are less than a quarter-inch, and you might only be able to get two fingertips on, and you have to put all your weight on that little hold. There are different ways to prepare for that. The classic is one-armed one-finger pull-ups, supporting all your body weight with one finger. It sounds crazy, but quite a few climbers can. Our tendons, forearms, elbows, shoulders generate an amazing amount of force. I can do a few one-finger pull-ups in the gym, but for me, the gym atmosphere is not motivating..."
From http://espn.go.com/sports/endurance/story/_/page/bodyissue2013chrissharma/rock-climber-chris-sharma-undresses-2013-body-issue-espn-magazine
In the crowded Euro-waif category we also have, for example, Alain Robert:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I could go on...there seem to be a whole lot o' elite climber jackasses out there sportin' this parlor trick...
You see what happens when you get old, Rich?
We become illegitimate.
Legitimacy is overrated. But considering the amount of work it took to become illegitimate, I'm going to consider it an accomplishment!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 12, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
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Seeing the Galen Rowell 1st ascent thread today reminded me that Galen could do one arms.
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Michael Fascinan
climber
Chamonix, france
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May 12, 2014 - 03:00pm PT
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3. When you are doing your weighted pullups with about 120% of your body weight, I think it is a good time to add in uneven grip pullups.
Really..?? You can do a pull-up with 120% of your body weight added?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 12, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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That does seem excessive. I had to go back and read that post. THAT is probably not needed! Ho! On the other hand, I was able to do a couple chin-ups with 100 lbs hanging around my neck while in High school weight training.....without hardly much specific training for it....just did it one day on a whim and dare in class one day.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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May 12, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Maybe 120% of your body weight (add 20%) rather than 120% of your body weight added.
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Michael Fascinan
climber
Chamonix, france
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May 12, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Humm... must be my english, I thought he was implying adding 120% of ones bodyweight....which would be some party trick.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 12, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
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Maybe 120% of your body weight (add 20%)
I'm sure that's how I had to read to the first go round.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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3. When you are doing your weighted pullups with about 120% of your body weight, I think it is a good time to add in uneven grip pullups.
Yeah, not too well-written; sorry about that. I meant, of course, that you are pulling 120% of your body weight, which means that you added about 20%, which isn't much extra weight (30 lbs. extra for a 150 lb. person...)
I edited the original post, hopefully now it is clearer.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 13, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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IIRC, Wolfgang Gullich blew out a finger doing one finger one arm pullups. I bet that pissed him off! There was a photo of him doing a one arm holding onto the barrel of a tank's gun.
I think that most of the young hard climbers prefer to injure themselves climbing, rather than while training. There has been some progress made over the years.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2014 - 08:43am PT
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I think that most of the young hard climbers prefer to injure themselves climbing, rather than while training. There has been some progress made over the years.
I have no statistics, but my sense from both the internet and the young climbers I know is that there are far more training injuries than ever.
If so, one of the reasons might be that training has become an integral part of the sport now, whereas BITD many fewer climbers trained and quite a few were even proud that they did not train. Which led, inevitably, to the converse problem: injuries one might ascribe to not training.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 13, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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I don't have any stats, nor do I really pay much attention, but I do see how the young sport climbers work out in the gym. They're pretty systematic, and they seem to stay healthy and strong, and they make progress. A lot of people in my age range tweaked their elbows and shoulders working out on Bachar ladders and doing excessive pullups. The early years of fingerboards caused a lot of casualties, too. Probably too much extreme dieting had a negative effect, too. It seems to me that people are getting more out of training now, and for those who look, there's a lot more good information (which is also easier to find). The most common injury I have seen lately are tweaked ankles from people optimistically falling off boulder problems.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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May 19, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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That's about it. People start at enormously different base levels, but I'd guess that many, if they follow this program and don't get injured, could get to repetitions of one-arm pullups in a year.
That seems like a long time, though I could never do one without cheating.
I'm embarking on my program, which is signficantly different, this week. Will let you know how it goes. I'm starting basically at absolute zero, one-arm-wise, and only about ten @two.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 19, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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You see what happens when you get old, Rich?
We become illegitimate.
that's probably true so far as styles of bouldering movement are concerned, but not when it comes to one-arms.
ms is just out of the loop-- campus board has become a standard training item for all of the top-level boulderers and sport climbers i see. i bet most of the best boulderers i know in my area can do one-arms.
that wasn't true 3o yrs ago.
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