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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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Ooooooooo! And I almost forgot to post a picture of my latest foray into the dark side...
The kind folks at Mountain Tools shipped 'em straight to my door. ")
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Gene
climber
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May 12, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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That pink T shirt picture made my day.
g
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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The muppet was on the rope today for the first time @ the rock wall @ our Y. She was grinning ear to ear pushing off of the wall & swinging...big appreciation to Ryan from Maine @ the wall for making her 1st experience stellar. I have no pictures, but will never forget the pure joy radiating from her eyes.
I'm not going to further humiliate myself by letting on exactly how long it took me to tie my 1st double fisherman's knot (eh-hem), but I did manage to get some equipment slung...finally.
We were disappointed to miss the infamous GLee @ the Gunks this weekend, but are looking forward to the Facelift!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sounds like a great day! and yes those are perfectly tied double fishermans with proper length on the tails.
Perhaps the most complicated knot commonly used in climbing.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Finally got my paws on the original "Boston Rocks" and its companion..."Boston Rolls". Total riot!!!
Lest I inadvertently violate the forum's posting policies, I refrained from posting the cover.
;D
Countdown to last day of work (for the foreseeable future): 5
Time to scratch up my embarrassingly shiny hardware!
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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"Graduated" from the Boston AMC ' S Spring Rock Climbing course a couple of weekends ago, so am eligible to participate in a trip to the...
Woohoo!!!
It's pouring buckets there tonight, but we're headed down @ the crack of dawn tomorrow morning for two glorious days of climbing. And thanks to GLee, I have some excellent reading material for the trip!!!
Package containing latest damage to bank account arrived just in time - lol. I am now the proud owner of a RURP and some beak - type things, some rap rings, a nifty DMM offset and a bunch more stuff I won't confess to unless tortured. ")
Now, how to sleep tonight...
Edit: stupid auto-correct.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 16, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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"...now, how to sleep tonight"
some advice after many years of anxious non-sleeping before climbs. First, experience helps... but what helped more was the idea that just laying down and physically resting helps your body get ready for exertion, whether you sleep or not. And the fact that rock climbing isn't a hugely intellectual challenge requiring your brain be tuned-to-a-tee and ready to perform at a high level. In fact, it's usually just the opposite, your brain is along for the ride.... oh hum.
the point is you're resting what you should be resting. Don't worry about it.
Once I realized that, i stopped being anxious and ever after had no problem sleeping. So don't worry about actually sleeping, just get the rest your body needs for climbing.
let everything else take its course.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
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It's the excitement that's killing me, Ed. I'm SO excited I can't stand it. :D
I'm fiddling with gear instead of staring at the ceiling...
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GLee
Social climber
MSO
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May 17, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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We're all hoping you'll let the muppet drag you up FOOPS, or maybe High E, at least!!!!
;-D
(Well, maybe it's just me.....)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 17, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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Audrey- So cool to see you follow in your dad's footsteps so many years later.
A word of caution about omega pacific link cams. You might have been told this already but they are prone to failure if they are not placed properly. I have a double set and i love them, but i don't place them in bottomed out pockets where the back of the axle will rotate into the rock and break the axle. I also avoid horizontal placements so the stem will not lever against the axle but others have told me this might actually catch a fall. I still prefer a normal cam (bd, metolious, wild country) for this application.
Here is the omega pacific warning on the subject
Be sure to anticipate direction of load, should you fall or weight the cam. This is particularly important with Link Cams, due to their unique construction. Since they are built using trisected cam lobes, Link Cams can become damaged%u2014and the placement may fail%u2014if a load is placed that makes the cam "shift" when a climber falls onto it. We are constantly researching ways to improve the strength and durability of Link Cams, but it is critical that Link Cams be placed with direction of load in mind. You should always place any removable protection with this principle in mind, of course, but Link Cams in particular should be placed so that the stem is aimed directly toward the ground and, when loaded, the position of the axle does not rotate during a fall or when bounce-testing. Although Link Cams' flexible stems can help "correct" a less-than-ideal placement, it is still important that the initial placement be made in proper alignment with anticipated load.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Mike, thanks so much for the info -- I wasn't aware of this specifically, so I really appreciate you making the effort to both point it out and explain it to me as a n00b. ")
It was awesome meeting you and Sandra at Facelift!!!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Craazzee BUMP!
My tablet tapping led me here .
I've got both the Boston rocks& rolls with the cover, wink wink nod nod.
Good rock climbing season almost at its end
But
This next week sounds dreamy my favorite times
When I lived there warm in the 70s and the early sunsets
I could - might be able to not resist - a trip to the Gunks!?
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
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How on Earth did you read my mind?!
NO, seriously!!!
I've been trapped by too many hours @ work for too long, but have been diligent in rehabbing my shoulder and both increasing endurance and lower body strength...all of which adds up to a major case of cabin fever. I've been trying to figure out a way to play hooky and climb for a few days...and I keep thinking about the Gunks.
:D
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