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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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So, Mr. Skeptic, does this make you born again?
Apparently the Lord of Creation intended for you to stick around!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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I agree with you Ron. I'll bring some tied slings on future forays in my second climbing career.
The biggest danger for the experienced climber is becoming blasé. Gravity is a constant and there are no angels to catch you.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
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Moral of the story NEVER assume that an older sling is good even after careful inspection.
Glad you made it! Still, not THAT careful an inspection as you can see the traces that used to be the color of the sling even in that photo. On the top of Church Tower in Yosemite, and rapping on Space Babble, I've encountered 1in tubular that I could rip in half easily with bare hands, even those it had no tears. I'm pretty liberal about rapping on older slings but completely bleached by uv is another story
Peace
Karl
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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My bad Karl, you are absolutely right......hopefully others will take note that even an experienced climber like me can make bonehead decisions.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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Jim, so glad to hear you had a back up. Now you have TWO birthdays to celebrate....seems like that's enough! :-)
xxx
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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See you at the Ice Fest Pam.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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Dang, Jim!
Don't die yet, we have to do the NIAD together one of these days!,
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Forest
Trad climber
Lafayette, CO
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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One of the first things the locals taught me when I moved to Tucson was that webbing dies incredibly quickly there in the sun. If there's visible fading, or the webbing is crunchy at all, it's absolutely not trustworthy.
People I'd climb with in Yosemite looked at me like I was crazy when I questioned using fixed webbing there.
"The biggest danger for the experienced climber is becoming blasé."
^^ This. A thousand times.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Glad you survived a(nother) close call, Jim. Look forward to sharing a rope and glass of wine at CoR this Summer?
Rodger
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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Crap! Happy second B-day
Never hurts to back stuff up especially if it's quick and easy to do eh?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Good thing you can still throw a good hand jam!
Never let you're guard down . . .
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
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Crusher, Bill Bellcourt from BD is coming to the Ouray Ice Festival. I'm giving him the sling to take back for testing. It broke in an area where there were no previous dings. I did run my fingers around the sling as part of my inspection, I'll post the test results.
Hmmmm. Sounds like a random spot on the webbing. You did run your fingers round and this was not an obvious wear point. I'm recalibrating my "when-do-I-add-a-new-sling" expectations already.
Thanks for doing the guinea-pig thing.
So, for your new birthday, did Angela buy you some new underwear......8-)
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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reason number 42 why bouldering is better than tard climbing.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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Well Jim you dodged another one. Glad you did. It's a good reminder to everyone to not be macho about anchors. Sh#t happens and in climbing quite often thats the end of the story. I'd much rather toast your second birthday than raise one to you at your wake. Losing Jay to anchor failure was enough. Back it up!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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Play the date of the incident as lottery numbers, you're lucky (and smart for backing it up)!
Maybe a diet is in order?
I'm glad you're safe, man
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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Wow! Glad you're still with us, Jim.
Did you have to burn your pants???
hee hee hee. . .
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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I hate to rap.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
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I applaud your dedication to scientific inquiry.
Don't get carried away, though!
Glad you made it through this OK.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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Damn! That was close.
Recent months bring lessons from climbing's best of the best, in all senses. As climbers and as men.
To do a "John Long check" now means:
CHECK YOUR HARNESS TIE-IN.
To threw in a "Jim Donini" now means:
BACK UP YOUR RAPP ANCHOR.
So glad we will visiting the Winds together again.
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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WOW! Close one.
Your instincts took over again.
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