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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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May 23, 2006 - 04:21pm PT
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Feeling is mutual when going for the right colored tape climbing route.
Just part of stick'n to it, so to play fair track the right color.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Tahoe
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May 23, 2006 - 04:27pm PT
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I hear what you're saying, John -
but sometimes, the route setter has a particular move that he wants you to do - for instance, setting a route so that a newer climber learns through trial and error, to do a drop-knee to become a more efficient climber, or to teach a heel-hook, or a smear by making the climber use a very small foothold to progress upward, etc.
I dislike the contrived nature of taped gym climbing, too, but it is not completely without some advantages - that can really pay off by increasing your odds of sending when you make it outside.
That's my take on it.
-Aaron
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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May 23, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
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Fortunately the gym I climb at uses all the same colored holds for a route. Bouldering is by tape color though. The way I look at routes in the gym, is they are either well set and feel natural, or they are poorly set and contrived pieces of sh!t. If I am on a route that is well set, I climb on the correct holds. If I get on a contrived piece of ...., I either get off and go get on something better, or I start 'rainbow' climbing on any hold I want. It's supposed to be fun so that is how I try to keep it.
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Zac 817
climber
New York City
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May 23, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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Hey,
I normally just lurk here, but I felt like I should chime in on this topic. I work at the Manhattan Plaza Health Club climbing gym, setting routes and working the counter. You may interpret it as bias on my part, but I think this place is great for what it is. The walls are not high (bout 25 feet) but we have a very excellent lead roof and a separate room for bouldering and a lot of cool people without too much attitude or testosterone.
Katiebird, I invite you to check out MPHC on 43rd st. between 9th and 10th aves and see if it's any better than your experience at CCC on 59th. If you come in tonight or tomorrow night (5/23 or 5/24 after 6pm) I'll waive the day pass fee and call it a free trial.
Actually, that goes for any of you super-topo-ers who are in NYC. Happiegrrrl, if you think you can stand the plastic, come check it out. And anyone else in NYC. Just go in the club, ask how to find the climbing gym. When you arrive just ask for Zac and mention this thread (though, if a lot of people show up, I may have to start charging money).
-Zac
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UberBabs1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 23, 2006 - 04:59pm PT
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I agree with Anastasia that Boulderdash is quite tolerable (just too far from Hollywood for me to frequent it). Gyms are just a training tool and not the place for attitude. As for the OP, not very attractive to spout negativity. Think carefully before you post for all the world to see. A future employer could be online!
And what's with the lack of capitalization? ee cummings LIVES!
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katiebird
Sport climber
austin
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2006 - 05:09pm PT
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Zac-
I appreciate the offer, but I'm flying back to ATX in a couple of hours. Next time I come up I'll be sure and see if your offer still stands.
-Katie
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Zac 817
climber
New York City
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May 23, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
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K.B.
Too bad. If you're in town again, you should definitely drop by. Send me an email at lumberzac@hotmail.com to double check if I'm around and we'll work something out.
To everyone else, offer still stands for tonight and tomorrow night. If you can't make it, email me and maybe we'll work something out if you want to check out the gym.
(and after work, if you want to watch the Sox-Yanks game with me at the sports bar around the corner that would be fun too!)
edit to say: GO RED SOX
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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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May 23, 2006 - 05:48pm PT
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anastasia must be refering to,"the ole Nixon charm".
that is a good one!
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wyJames
Mountain climber
Dripping Spring, Tx
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May 23, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
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Hah KB,
I dislike the gym you work at for all the same reasons!
See you in the valley!
Cheers
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sean stitt
Sport climber
sacramento
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May 23, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Tape confuses me too. Furthermore, I hate all of those lines and nets all over the grass and courts when I'm playing tennis, basketball, football or soccer. Now that you mention it, all those crazy colored lights at all the intersections confuse me when I'm driving too.
No offense guys, especially you JB you know I love you, but you are the definition of old school.
Try this, it works for me; when you start an indoor route, say the color out loud - YELLOW. Everytime you move your feet repeat the mantra. Pretty soon you will find yourself yellow-yellow-yellowing through the gym, your confusion will be gone and you might just appreciate the "lesson" the routesetter is trying to teach you.
I think you old schoolers problem is your ethic. You are looking for the path of least resistance up the wall, the way you would outside, and that is not necessarily the objective for many people inside.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 11:18pm PT
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Damn Locker, you see right though me, that give me little shivers....
what are you doing later big boy?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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Re: Climbing Gyms and disenchantment.....
May 23, 2006, 02:51pm PST
Author:
Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
From: Cali
Perhaps Dirt and Rainbow would be good for each other?
I love TR. Always have. She knows that. But she wants to marry that scum Karl Babbler!!! I am CRUSHED!!!!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 24, 2006 - 08:44am PT
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Sean Stitt, in one way I see your point, but I don't really think you can equate bouldering/climbing with a field sport where the lines and nets and all are part of the game.
I think you old schoolers problem is your ethic. You are looking for the path of least resistance up the wall, the way you would outside, and that is not necessarily the objective for many people inside.
And I don't think being old school, new school or any other school has much to do with it. Maybe some people don't like playing 'connect the dots'.
Maybe some people use gyms to keep in shape during bad weather or when they can't get out on the rocks due to other commitments, or such. Not because they like hanging out in gyms conforming to the routes that they have had created for them, or afraid to do the real thing. Some people like being creative and following their own dictates, not others.
To each their own. If you want to play 'connect the dots' then go for it, others want to be a bit more imaginative and original. No offence.
And path of least resistance? Trying telling that to Bridwell, or Charlie Porter, or JB and Largo, or Higgins and Kamps, or Kauk and Gullich, Batso, Chouinard, Don Whilliams, Doug Scott, Galibier, Bonatti, Ron Fawcett, Wunsch, Barber, Pat Littlejohn, the Lowes, Mugs Stumps, Joe Brown, Patey, or... the list can go on and on.
It seems to me that many gym monkeys can do all the hard moves indoors but shite their drawers when they get on the real thing. (PS, this is just a sweeping generality, but is there truth to it?) That is, if many of them ever do venture outdoors.
Question: Do sport climbers take the path of least resistance (ie pre-placed pro) or do they search out the toughest routes?
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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May 24, 2006 - 09:21am PT
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Path of Least Resistance....Wasn't that the John Gill philosophy?
Oh wait.....my error, it was the Path of Least Existence.....
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 24, 2006 - 09:35am PT
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where the "new rock" is...
Here's an arch for anyone that cares
Anyone need directions to the local gym? (Tennessee Bouldering Authority)?? It's right below good climbing on Lookout...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 24, 2006 - 10:17am PT
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I sort of thought that first least resistance comment along with the old school comment was meant to be funny.
Locker, new rock is any unclimbed rock, get it? Got it? GOOD!
Now get back in your closet, silly man.
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MikeL
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 11:08am PT
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Anastasia, I liked your post.
Climbing gyms cause me injuries. Someone tell me why I get more injuries pulling plastic than I ever get outside. In fact, other than a sprained ankles and plenty of torn-up skin, I've never injured muscles, joints, or tendons outside. But in the gym I have, and more than once. I try to stay away from those places now.
-MikeL
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 24, 2006 - 11:34am PT
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Sean - you're right, I guess I'm pretty old skool. I have had some fun on taped "bouldering" routes but the tape still seemed to bother me. I suppose if I had to climb in the gym a bunch I would be playing the tape game as well just to keep it interesting but overall I think it can potentially create bad habits for when you get on real rock. I guess I prefer to pretend the gym is real rock and just use whatever holds are there in front of my eyes. It's already bad enough that no "holds" (especially tiny foothold things) exist between the bolt-on holds - which in of itself forces you into a connect the dots type of climbing approach and kind of "teaches " you to ignore looking for other possibilities (although some walls are getting better at increasing the amount of micro details). Sometimes I think taped routes also mess up your natural rhythm as well by making you pause to "find a color" instead of pausing to "discover a sequence".
Overall, I got to say that modern gyms are great! Way better alternative to no gyms (like 'back in the day'). I just wish they would set more "anything goes" type routes now and then (like they set for comps). That would help people train their "eyes and mind" (for real rock) - not just their "muscles"! cheers, jb
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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May 24, 2006 - 12:05pm PT
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Before I start climbing at the gym I first stretch (some basic iyengar yoga - so sue me, I'm getting old), then some light aerobic exercise (or maybe not so light if I have been riding my mountain bike beforehand). This seems to keep my gym sessions from injuring me, and I think it helps me with flexibility. Your mileage may vary.
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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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May 24, 2006 - 12:12pm PT
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zardoz when is the last time you were in a climbing gym?
My goal in the gym used to be to not get injured. Then to get stronger.
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