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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 31, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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You guys should just hold these events in Vancouver or Squamish, in say October or November. Rains here all the time then, nothing else to do. Everybody would come!
It would probably be a considerable stretch to hold an event like this in the Valley, even if the facilities allowed.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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I wish I could have been there for the gear day! The gear I'm out climbing on was developed by those people in that room. The gear they were showing was developed out of their engineering creativity and that is what gives me my experience today. I finally "got" the full impact of the brains and balls those guys have to walk into the landscape of the valley and say "Yeah, I think we can do this."
Werner ya shoulda been there.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 09:53am PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Looks like all gray people looking at their past .......
several also took the name of W.B. in vain!
there were a number of chicks at this thing who looked so sleek that you didn't care, and probably couldn't figure out, which side of 40 they were. if i drop names, i'll be in big trouble. dr. F knows how to handle these things: "one of the three hottest women there".
i had some discussion with yonder mouse on the various muses. since we're both writers attempting to become rich in our respective old ages, i suggested we start to pay closer attention to which ones we get along with. i list them here for reference:
calliope--epic poetry
clio--history
erato--love poetry
euterpe--song and elegaic poetry
melpomene--tragedy
polyhymnia--hymns
terpsichore--dance
thalia--comedy
urania--astronomy
personally, i think the mouse does well as a reporter, and i think he ought to show up at more things and give us reports about them. he may have a muse which hasn't been named.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 31, 2012 - 10:19am PT
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I wish I could have been to this thing but I'm out in the wilds where SCseagot and Ferretleger are and it's too far away. Speaking of which, I hope to cross paths with you guys while you're here, Susan. You ever have coffee at the love muffin? I get there fairly often.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 31, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Nice pics!!!! Wish I could have made it....lot's of familiar faces and, best of all, I would not have been the oldest person at a climbing event.
A couple of slide shows of current climbing events might have drawn some younger climbers. Mixing with the old guard would have been more interesting for them then they would have imagined.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Oct 31, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Climbing royalty, very special to have that much history in one room, also very nice to see Bonnie Kamps.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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I agree Jopay, great to see Bonnie Kamps. She had her knee replaced last year (just before I had mine) and is now doing really well. I think there was a period where the new one was still painful and seemed to be a disappointment but today she is quite comfortable, she indicates.
Donini, they did try to have Yuji Hiruyama and other younger presenters but this did not work out/they couldn't come, even as helpful as it might have been. The program was really quite long---three days---and I guess in the final analysis it was geared to the truly hardcore history buffs amongst us. If the event is done again next year, it would be helpful to somehow have more time for actual meals so one did not have to play hookie on the program in order to eat. And Oakdale restaurants don't stay open as late as ones in big cities.
The American Alpine Club had its Western Regional Coordinator present, Jeff Deikis. He is a recent hire and a great one too. Very friendly, bright, mobilized younger guy originally from Ann Arbor, now living in Bishop. He was taking lots of photographs and mingling with everyone quite well. I think Dougie Robinson is going to go climb with him on the Eastside soon, perhaps. Beth Heller, the AAC librarian, was also very actively participating in the audience. She is out west working on Nick Clinch’s library I understand. It was important to meet her too; up to that point I had only been talking to her online.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Oct 31, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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It was an amazing event, and there won't be another assemblage like that. Very well done, all who organized.
You're right, Werner. Lots of grey and lots of white.
Your turn will come my friend, much sooner than you think.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Hans gave a real good, "down to earth" presentation as one of the last speakers.
But before he left off he had to answer the question, "How long will it be, in your opinion, before the two hour mark is broken on the Nose run?"
He said plainly, "9.7 years." That would be on or about August 13, 2021.
"Hans, honey, remember the time...
you taught me how to do arm bars?"
Diamond Cs used to be a girl's best friend.
Hey, she's singing "Anything Goes!"
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Yes, me! ~_~y
...was there through the whole event, from beginning to the end.
It was a fantastic weekend!! I have to say it is one of my best experiences.
I was simply thrilled and excited (and super stoked!!!!!!!) to be in the same room with some of the coolest and most amazing climbers to date, listening to them making history and their great stories (some hilarious, and some emotional.) It's something I'll never forget.
Everyone,including the speakers and the audience, were all very kind and friendly.
Saturday was a full day; one program after another. I cannot believe that I had been sitting indoors for almost 8 hours!!!! ...don't think I would ever be able to go thru that many secessions of lecture at school all in one day, happily. XD
Especially thanks to Steve, for organizing this event. Before heading home, I talked to him and showed my appreciation. This is like a once in a life time opportunity - oh wait, there is next year! You bet I will be there! =)
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the buckaroo
Boulder climber
Oakdale
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[photoid=271535]hey jody...took my 11 year old boy, Ryan, to the fest. He got Al, Nick, Tom & Royal to sign the four sides of his climbing shoes (mine too!).
Needless to say, he was in awe of the silver backs (heads). Great community he is becoming a part of. He uses my term, The Granite Kissing Crowd, with pride & honor.
Took him to Desolation last summer for his lesson in fist jamming granite cracks. Same rocks his older sister challenged many moon ago.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Powder - those are some nice shots. What are you shooting?
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the buckaroo
Boulder climber
Oakdale
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...gonna need a new pair of scrambling shoes...these pups won't be kissing granite again.
Thank you Royal, Tom, Al & Nick...they will be cherished. Nick also signed bottom...his sly idea of fun & games.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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What a great thing! SG, I've always appreciated the great finds you share on Supertopo, this is way above that. Great job sir!
Given the intransigence of life and how fleeting time is, please, someone PLEASE, tell me that this was videotaped. In fact, imagine a film wherein the ageing storyteller at this conference is telling a tale, and old shots of the actual ascent (or the actual climb) are interspersed. It would sell, and be a lot better than watching the latest young wizz climb an overbolted line in Spain.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jody- It was a pleasure to meet you and your Teton-rich father!
Thanks for all the wonderful comments about the event everybody. It went just as I had hoped it would and more. The speakers stepped up to the plate and hit it into the parking lot on then first pitch! Dreamy...just plain dreamy!
I just got back and have the next one mostly fleshed out once I get commitments from the prospective speakers. So many thoughts and emotions driving back home once I cleared out of Tom's garage and headed for Yosemite and the eastside. It was a real pleasure to meet new friends and deepen my bonds with the many iconic climbers that made this inaugural event so special and gave me so much inspiration forty years ago when I began to shape my own climbing dreams. Mutual respect is the gift that keeps on giving back to our splendid community.
The mutual appreciation and pride that filled the hall will stay with me forever. An unmistakable sign that the North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA) is off to a resounding start!
This forum has been a great historical crossroads with so many quality people taking time to participate and share their lives and experiences with anyone that cares to join in and enjoy the fare. Many thanks to Chris for creating such a powerful platform for the historical work that I am taking on for the next several decades. What I am able to learn will continue to be shared on this forum. More about NACHA soon.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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There have been several comments above about the timing of this event not being optimal, and that perhaps contributing to the lower attendence of the "younger crowd". Although I myself am in the "older crowd", like a lot of others I had plans to go climb that beautiful Fall weekend.
Otherwise I would have attended this event, and I'd be much likelier to attend an event like this in the future in our rainy season (late November to February).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Once Tioga Pass shuts down the eastern Sierra community has a much longer drive to Oakdale. I thought through the timing of the event thoroughly before setting the date so that folks would still be around. If you would rather get out climbing, so be it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oakdale is known for world class rodeo riders...and wild buckeroos like Tom Frost whose dad was a bronco buster! If you have ever rode a wild layback or tussled with a overhanging wide crack, you know what it's like to hang on for time. Nobody dislikes coming off too soon more than Tom.
Tom originally lead the first Dog Leg crack on Sentinel's West Face with only a wooden piton like this one for pro when it counted. Paul Sibley liberated this specimen from the Titan and it was on display at the Festival.
Solid 5.9 and the most amazing free climbing lead that Yvon had ever witnessed back in 1960.
More Oakdale history in next year's event.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
moving thru
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Cheers Steve and Mimi,
I love you and so hated to miss your event. I had to get back to my "other" job in San Diego after they gave me a 5 month hiatus to work in Tioga.
Peace and Joy, lynne
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Two of those were stuck in the flared chimney below the lieback ear on the original Rixon's rte. I pulled them out of there and thoroughly rotten as they were, I threw them to the ground. This was about 1964 I think. Even then they were outmoded as we had bongs.
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