Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
|
The better your technique the less need for hand jammies. The better your feet the less pressure on your hands. Yadda yadda
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
|
hahahahaha Cosmic, bad news for Locker- she doesn't have great technique!
|
|
ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2012 - 01:50am PT
|
Wow, 56 thats pretty good.
Sunny but cold up here today, went bouldering around 4:30, it was like 34 degrees...but sunny.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2012 - 02:13am PT
|
Guy on the left had a ton of technique and experience. Guy on the right had a fair bit of experience but not the greatest hand crack technique
Reality: Guy on the left was climbing routes that were easy for him. Guy on the right was climbing routes that were hard for him.
Fact: If you are working on routes that are hard for you and you are not taped, you will bleed, scar and be forced to climb less for fewer days.
|
|
John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:57am PT
|
Tape and Hand Jammies are aid?
Next thing yer gunna tell me is that standing on a cam hook is aid
;-)
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:10am PT
|
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:36am PT
|
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
You gonna follow that guy's example? That worked out pretty well for him.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
|
Get a bulk box of Kendall Curity 1" tape for her for Xmas and she can make a thin second skin tape glove every time she climbs.
Unless they've changed there sizing since I bought some 10 yrs ago, the smallest ones are huge. Jammies are like climbing with stick rubber sandals on your hands. For the same reason that loose shoes are annoying, having a piece of rubber slide back and forth even a little was even more frustrating than the girth.
|
|
brusman
Gym climber
United States
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
|
I am just ordering some from my friend in Europe, if you want a pair or 2, let me know. I think they come out to $35 each depending if I get enough, due to the shipping charges. I am in Orange County.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
|
Can Largo pipe up about his rig for Paisano overhang? Stories of welders gloves with lots of tape. Is this true?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
|
Technique is king, but sometimes ya gotta tape!! Fifty years of crack climbing have left my hands a mass of scar tissue. Curtis is the best!
But what Murcy said early in this thread, there are times when gloves work. I too like the ones he mentioned, but they tear. Thats what happened to Em's. it's not a perfect world out there.
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2013 - 02:20am PT
|
I only use tape when blood makes the climb slippery...
|
|
Sslib
climber
|
|
Happy to report that can find Ocun Crack Gloves at http://blicard.com/collections/crack-climbing/products/crack-gloves. They are in stock as of the date of this post and we have all 4 sizes, $35 USD.
Hope this is helpful.
*Full disclosure I am co-owner of Blicard.com. We are a small company run out of Vancouver, BC & happy to be able to help out our fellow climbers with our small unique selection of climbing gear on our site.
Climb on!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Don't use crack gloves or tape gloves.....but I do tape. New tape job for each day, acts a bit like coffee to get me jump started.
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
|
|
I've been using the Ocun crack gloves for years now. For me they are way superior to tape gloves 95% of the time. I started using them for climbing down in Patagonia where its pretty helpful to have something covering your hands while jamming. Also they don't get wet like tape gloves and stay wet all day. You can also take them off and put them on in 15 seconds. This makes it easy to remove them at belays and put real gloves on. Often when its really cold I actually put them over my R1 hoody thumb catches which allows my hands to be insulated but I'm still able to jam pretty well.
For real hard thin hand cracks i probably wouldn't wear them and I actually find myself taking them off mid pitch. all I need is one good hand jam and I take them off with my teeth and put them down my shirt. and i've even put them back on mid pitch though it takes a stem or no-hands rest to do that.
I've also turned a few of my friends onto them. Colin Haley uses them as does Josh Wharton. Josh even wore them on the 2nd ascent of the North Twin in the Canadian rockies. I'd love it if somebody told him that the gloves were aid or that he should work on his technique.
and here is a pic of Kate Rutherford on a steep and hard 5.12 in the bugaboos wearing the Ocun gloves.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Mikey, I've noticed that most who complain about gloves/tape being aid actually have climbed but it was BITD.
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
Ocun gloves are way better than Hand Jammies imho. Tape is great but I"m concerned with how much trash I put into landfills. I save the tape for all day outside climbing and reserve the gloves for individual pitches and gym climbing.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Daphne....tape makes a great fire starter.
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
|
|
I even had my days of talking down to tape. When I use to actually spend time in the Creek I never taped. I didn't need to. It felt so soft after spending all season in Yosemite.
I do agree with a lot of people that tape or crack gloves shouldn't be a substitution for good technique they should only be a compliment. But the reality is that takes a lot of miles and time.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
My lady uses Ocun gloves... I just bought her another pair this morning but shhh! they're part of her birthday present. Their sizing is not favorable for ladies with very small hands. But they are pretty thin and form-fitting in latest design- with a good tight fit, they would be almost as slim as taping up, and less messy and wasteful. But taping would still give you the advantage when you need every bit of help possible.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!