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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Dingus- We will be around till the 24th... When I'm referring to Squamish descriptions this is what I'm talking about. This is a classic route right by the Chief campground.
A noteworthy route cruises up the wall between Bulletheads
North and the left end of Campground Wall.
Liquid Gold 5.11a TOP 100
This climb is outstanding. The crack that splits the final
wall may be one of the best at the grade in Squamish.
Scramble five metres up from the cliffbase trail to start.
Pitch 1 (5.10d, 40 m) Climb a shallow, left-facing corner
which eventually arches left. When a bolt appears, head
for it and finger traverse a dyke rightward. Easy but
runout moves lead to a corner on the right. Gear belay.
Pitch 2 (5.11a, 20 m) Follow a corner which jogs left
around roofs. One tough move. Belay below a chimney.
Pitch 3 (5.10c, 30 m) Work into the chimney, which narrows
to offwidth size. Good cracks lead to a big ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.11a, 50 m) Stellar hand and finger cracks
lead up the wall. A couple of belay options are possible
with the best located at 50 metres where the angle eases.
Alternatively, climb a 70-metre super pitch. Classic.
Pitch 5 (5.10b, 20 m) Finish up the crack above. Either
descend (hike and rappel) via the Maņana Slab in Bulletheads
South or hike to the top of Wild Turkey, find an
anchor and make three double-rope raps to the ground.
Double rack to 4.5" FA Gordie Smaill, Mike Wisnicki; 1969; FFA
Derek Flett, Andrew Boyd, 2010.
Bluey!!! Thanks for the offer buddy but we are flying into Sacramento so I think we will get supplies and find somewhere to crash outside the park for the night... Relic says he has the Reid guide to between that and cmac's we should be able to get it done... Like Tami says "We don't need no stinkin' guidebooks!" (Not true.... I like to know where I'm going...)
MMMM Taco trucks.... MMMM In-and-Out Burger!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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You should take the In-N-Out challenge on the drive down the 101. Double Double animal style at every In-N-Out you pass.
I tried once from Truckee to SF, and failed.
Have fun man, it's the best time of year to be in the Valley in my opinion. They turned off the waterfalls but oh well. I'll be stoked to see some shots, you've got a good eye.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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Haha... In-and-Out challenge.... Were you still able to climb after that?? :) Thanks for the compliment Brandon it's something I've always had, my dad has it too so I guess the apple doesn't fall far from the tree... My challenge has always been getting image to look like it did in real life!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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In-And-Out urge, good eats, just avoid looking at the bottum of the cups.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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What's up with the cups? Mice??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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I think I can deal with a bit more propaganda... ;)
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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To be honest In and Out is a pretty good employer, they pay more than any other fast food. It is the only socal chain where you will see mostly teenagers working
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Them and Chick-fil-A; CfA never open on the Lords Day, imagine that.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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To be honest In and Out is a pretty good employer, they pay more than any other fast food. It is the only socal chain where you will see mostly teenagers working
With outstanding attitudes every time I've gone, never forgetting to supply the little ones with stickers.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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In n Out also has the whitest staff on earth. Go to the one in Hayward and somehow 95% of the staff consists of white teenagers.
As far as fast food goes, Carl's Jr has better burgers anyways. 5 guys even better and is probably going to knock christan burger off it's pedestal in CA.
Oh climbing.... yeah right... Tons of stuff in Yosemite no doubt but there is good stuff outside the park, all the stuff south of Yosemite, foothills stuff, Sonora Pass, Cal Domes, Tahoe, east side of the Sierra and on and on.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Thanks for the 5 guys reco berg... I'll check it out..
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Umm, you want a real burger, stop at Old Priest Station on the way up 120 and get a grass fed delicacy!
Take hwy 4 thru copperopolis to shave some time off the drive from sac. And of course take the Old Priest rd shortcut on 120 and the station restaurant is at the top.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Thanks for the beta Fet..... Jebus, i'm not interested in your beef... that's for sure ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mike, check your mail.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Why has no one mentioned to do Five and Dime? Huh?????? That thing is killer.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Knob Job. Cascade Falls.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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"In n Out also has the whitest staff on earth. Go to the one in Hayward and somehow 95% of the staff consists of white teenagers."
The one in San Bernardino is staffed mostly with Mexicans.
My guess is their staff reflects the community.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Big Mike is coming to The Valley for his first visit, and this is the best beta you can give?
During my first trip up to "Squeemish" I overheard a pair of locals discussing their own upcoming 1st Valley trip:
"El Capitan," one gravely described to her partner, "is their Grand Wall."
Reid's Guide will do. There's long routes, short ones; easy and desperate. If this were my 1st trip to The Valley, and I was comfortable on-sighting 5.9 fingers and hands, I gun up the first 5 pitches of Central Pillar of Middle Cathedral, and I'd show before 9am, so as not to follow another party.
If you want to work up to that length, then the Cookie, or Reed's would offer a high selection.
For face and friction, the rock on the south side is more compact than than of the north, which is a bit more decomposed from sun exposure.
Tuolumne, and Southern Yosemite can wait for another time. Autumn is the Valley's premier season.
I understand there are plenty of vacancies over at Curry Village - hell, now I'm getting into the act!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nutcracker for sure, Rixon's Pinnacle, Central Pillar of Frenzy, OMGoodness!
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