L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900

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crankster

Trad climber
Dec 17, 2014 - 11:52am PT
Very interesting. I still have stuff like that in my garage!
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Dec 17, 2014 - 11:56am PT
Here's a catalogue from Britain but no date. Anyone care to hazard a guess (I don't know)...



For those not familiar with the old pounds, shillings and pence... 12 pence (usually written 'd') = 1 shilling, 20 shillings (written 's') = 1 pound (written £). For some reason, up to about £5 prices were often expressed in shillings. So when you see, for example 62/9, that means 62 shillings and 9 pence, which is of course £3 2s 9d. Clear?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2014 - 11:59am PT

Crankster

It would be great if you took a photo of the stuff and post it.

Cool Jaaan.

Does anybody have an idea how old the shoes are by seeing the catalogue?
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Dec 18, 2014 - 01:49am PT
OK, well I'm guessing 50s...? Or even late 40s though that would seem less likely.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
While we are lingering around a century back, a timely tidbit from F. Ormiston Smith as it appeared in C.B. Fry's Magazine Volume 4 1905.





Merry Christmas Folks!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 10:54am PT

Steve.

A great article. Thanks for posting and a Happy New Year!

The history of Tricouni Nails

The Tricouni website: http://www.tricouni.com/
In 1883, a group of Geneva climbers coined the phrase ‘varrape’ (rock climbing in French) while climbing on the face of the Salève mountain overlooking the city. Of these climbers, one was to later revolutionize alpine equipment. Perhaps Felix Genecand was fed up with destroying his street shoes on the Salève face, perhaps it was the death of a friend who’s shoe fell apart that inspired him to invent better climbing footwear.He adopted the nickname Tricouni which was the name of an Italian climber he admired. Tricouni invented several models of steel climbing boot nails which could be attached to the leather soled shoes of the time. The Tricouni climbing nail was later to be known the world over.

A dozen number model #1 Tricouni nails attached to the sole of the shoe, weighed only seventy grams and revolutionized mountain climbing at the time.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
cintune

climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Jan 2, 2015 - 02:04pm PT
Cool thread.


"Woman Mountaineer" 1885 print by Granger
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 02:26pm PT

Therese Bertheau had the first female ascent of Store Skagastølstind

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 02:51pm PT

Norwegian historian Arne Larsen has just published a book about the history of Store Skastølstind (whose popular name is Storen): http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Inspirasjon/Storens-biograf

Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Jan 3, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
Jaaan,

I'd say the catalogue dated from just before or just after WW2. Timpsons are still very present on British High streets and have a good web presence

http://www.timpson.com/timpson-history.php

Steve
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 08:35am PT

Drawing of ice-axe by Oscar Eckenstein in the article "Claws and ice-craft 1" in "Climbers Club Journal 1912"
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Jan 4, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
Spooky seeing ads for equipment that was state-of-the-art when I began climbing in 1953!

For some of you who have not seen it, here is an internet piece on Oscar Eckenstein that appears on my website. He was a brilliant innovator and probably the first serious boulderer in the British Isles.

Oscar Eckenstein
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 01:36pm PT

jgill

Thanks for linking the article, informative and great fun. I once read somewhere that OE cooperated with the werkzeugschmiede Hupfauf to produce the short ice axe. I think it was a Crowley book.
cintune

climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Jan 4, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
Particularly liked this part:

For instance, during a number of years he was the object of repeated murderous attacks which he could only explain on the hypothesis that he was being mistaken for somebody else.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2015 - 11:04am PT

The first Simond ice axe - made around 1900 - it all started with a reverse...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 19, 2015 - 11:39am PT
I have a pair of Eckenstein drawings from about 1910 that show a much more refined ice axe shape than the one shown here with a larger pick and adze.

Makes me wonder how many distinct sets of drawings he did while he was involved in axe and crampon design and specification.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2015 - 09:59am PT

Sporthaus Schuster 1932
oldnutz

Trad climber
OAKLAND
Jan 22, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
Just curious what the pupose was for the "magrakarabiner"? Was the design to prevent it from rotating?

I apologize if it's explained in the caption...I can't read German :(

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2015 - 02:30pm PT

Oldnutz

They were known to be strong. The bend took tension off the gate side of the carabiner.

An old Stubai is now sold on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stubai-Rock-Clip-Curved-Carabiner-Mountain-Ice-Climbing-Made-In-Austria-/231454439603?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e3c278b3

I think the Marwa was first out
Vertical archeology: http://verticalarchaeology.com/blog/2014/04/12/marwa-carabiners/
oldnutz

Trad climber
OAKLAND
Jan 23, 2015 - 07:15am PT
Thanks Marlow: That link led to a detailed post on MP with a lot of info...very interesting evolutionary track of carabiner design.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/old-biner-id/108239762
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