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Jo Jo
Mountain climber
Lacey, WA
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Aug 12, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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Earlier, someone had asked why I didn't turn around sooner. I apologize, but I can't seem to find that post any longer. However, here is my response if the reader is still a part of this forum: My boyfriend and I were initially going to climb to Camp Muir but scaled back to a Pebble Creek climb; and then scaled back again to a Mazama Ridge snowshoe, given the impending weather and advice of the rangers. We followed a group of about 18 snowshoers up through the Edith
Creek Basin and up near the Golden Gate trail. We were thinking at the time that the conditions and weather weren't that great for novice snowshoers (which this group appeared to be) so followed them up to the ridge to see where they were going and to keep an eye on them. It was pretty windy when we got to the top and we expected them to turn around (they were about 20 feet ahead of us) but they continued out over toward the Paradise Glacier side of the ridge and so we followed them, trying to pass along the way to get to their leader. We wanted to warn them that everyone should turn around because of the deteriorating conditions. It was then we realized that their command of the English language was limited and we had difficulty convincing them to turn. I told Jay I wanted to get the heck out of Dodge but when the snowshoers turned and started going up the ridge toward Pan Point instead of turning back, we once again tried to convince them to turn and go back with us. It was during this time that their leader (Mr Kim) stepped off a cornice and tumbled down into nothingness. They had contact with him via hand radio but no one could see him. There was chaos at this point with women snowshoers frantically trying to get stuff out of packs to get warm and people not knowing what to do. Jay and I made the decision that we needed to get off the ridge immediately as our tracks were quickly disappearing. We turned but even though the spot where we had ascended the ridge was probably only about 10 minutes away, we couldn't find it. I struggled to get into three extra layers of clothing, balaclava, ski goggles, heavier gloves, before we wandered up and down that ridge for two hours trying to find our way down. It was 2pm by this point and that's when Jay decided we'd have to build a snow cave ad hunker down for the night. We didn't see the snowshoers at all and, to this day, have no idea how they got off the mountain and alert the park rangers that Mr. Kim was missing. Perhaps there was safety in numbers; perhaps their hand radios helped. Who knows? Even the park rangers don't know. Apparently, they told the rescuers that they had seen us up there but the rescuers had no idea we hadn't returned to the car park at Paradise and left the mountain.
If I could have done this all over, I would have turned around the minute we hit that ridge on Saturday morning and let the snowshoers do their own thing but, being who I am, I wanted to help, and this nearly cost me my life. If Jay and I had turned at that point, we most certainly would have been done the mountain and in the safety of the visitors center within 45 minutes.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 12, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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I've had some rather sobering experiences on Rainier in July. It can be an unforgiving mountain even in the summer.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 23, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Still hoping that more will be found at this time of year. Please keep your eyes open if you are traveling on Rainier.
Yes, merely carrying a GPS does not mean that you will be able to navigate. Practice does. I practice even if I know an area to keep or build more skill. Still looking for the GPS manuafacturers to improve their products' display in bright sun/ driving precipitation, etc. My old eyes can struggle in bad light with that tiny print....
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janeclimber
Ice climber
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Aug 23, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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JoJo,
Thank you so much for sharing the details of how you survived the whiteout/blizzard/high wind/snow storm. Indeed, people who have never been through a whiteout has no idea how crazy it could be. I experienced a baby version in April 2005 on Rainier, which taught me to be respectful to Nature and be prepared all the time.
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Michael Fleder
Mountain climber
Torrance, CA
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Aug 23, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Jojo,
Thanks for writing some much detail about your story, it is great that you are sharing this with all of us.
I can relate to your feelings, since I have been in 2 boat sinkings. I am always amazed at how people question choices or actions when they never lived thru a similar experience.
On both of my sinkings everyone was saved, but the memories of the ordeals are always present and it is hard for me to talk about them. Your strength to talk and write about your ordeal is very inspiring to me.
30 years ago I was 19 years old when I visited Mt. Rainier. As I stood in the parking lot. I told myself I was going to climb Mt. Rainier. It seems like 30 years went by in a blink of the eye. Now I am training to climb Mt. Rainier as my 50th birthday present. I am planning to go with RMI and my sons will also come with me. Now your story is part of my preparation.
P.S. your story brought tears to my heart.
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Jo Jo
Mountain climber
Lacey, WA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Jane and Michael . . . thank you for your kind words. You are right, Jane . . . anyone who climbs and has never been in a whiteout, has absolutely no idea how the experience can totally turn you upside down. I've been in plenty of whiteouts on Rainier, having climbed up to Camp Muir dozens of times over the years. If it weren't for the fact that they were merely whiteouts and NOT blizzards, I probably would have found myself in the same predicament as I did this past January. Whiteouts at least allow you to sit down right where you are and wait for things to clear up, or offer less chance of maps blowing out of your gloved hands, or your contact lenses blown off your eyeball so you can't read; or freeze your fingers off trying to manipulate the buttons on a GPS. That's how bad this blizzard was. Despite maps and GPS and goggles (which just froze over with ice), we had no idea where we were and too scared to take the next step in case it was our last.
Michael, I am glad the detail has been helpful to you. That is why I shared it. I have a feeling you know what it's all about, having come close to dying yourself a couple of times???
I got off a plane at SeaTac airport 20 years ago, having just flown several hours from my homeland of New Zealand with my two daughters, to make the Pacific Northwest my home. When I took my first look at Mt. Rainier, I was awe-struck. From that day until now, there is never a day that passes that I don't look for her. She is a beautiful monument for this gorgeous state and I am so glad she has allowed me to live another day to go back. I summited in 2010 with RMI; but was not successful this past July 4th -- we attempted a little too early in the season and avalanches were threatening on the upper mountain. I was 52 when I summited Rainier in 2010, so you have two years on me. Have a wonderful climb!!!
I am returning to the Mountain for the long weekend and plan to camp up above Pebble Creek with Jay for a couple of nights. I will be thinking of Mark and Michelle while I am there. Although memories of that terrible weekend are still vivid, the Mountain still feels like an old friend. I feel lucky :)
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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Looks as though two more have come home to rest.
The remains of a man and woman have been recovered from a glacier on Mount Rainier on Friday, according to the Associated Press. Rangers believe they may be two of four people who went missing earlier this year.
The two parties vanished during a merciless blizzard on Paradise Glacier in January. According to Mynorthwest.com, the storm originally hindered rescue efforts with 15 feet of snow (some drifts topped 50 feet) and winds of more than 60 mph.
It was originally reported that Mark Vucich, 37, and Michelle Trojanowski, 30, were intending to camp on the Muir Snowfield.
A second party consisted of two climbers, Sork “Erik” Yang, 52, of Springfield, Oregon, and Seol Hee Jin, 52, of South Korea.
The body of Mark Vucich, 37, was exposed in August due to the summer snowmelt. Trojanowski, Yang and Jin remain unidentified or missing.
Rangers returned this past Saturday in search of what they believe to be the last missing person and to investigate a campsite discovered buried under the snow. The campsite was located about a quarter mile east of the standard climbing route on the Muir snowfield and on the other side of the ridge, according to The Seattle Times.
The recovered bodies were transported to the Pierce County Medical Examiner to be identified, and for causes of death to be determined.
http://www.rockandice.com/news/2219-two-bodies-found-on-mount-rainier
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crankenstein
Trad climber
Louisville, CO
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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Thread of the year nomination. The details of such an experience and eveyone else's input in such a constructive and respectful way... Amazing thread. Thanks to all for sharing.
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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Bump. Wow, what a powerful and eye opening thread. My sincere "Thank You."
-Anastasia-
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Jo Jo
Mountain climber
Lacey, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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I snow camped on the Muir Snowfield with Jay over the Labor Weekend. We pitched our tent around 8,600 feet; watched the sun go down and then got up early to enjoy coffee and the sunrise, which cast a beautiful light over the summit and Nisqually Glacier. Gibraltar stuck out against the cobalt blue morning sky like a big chunk of chocolate cake! I climbed up onto the ridge behind our campsite (Little Africa) and wandered among the smooth slabs of rock and protected undergrowth. It was a beautiful morning. I sat and looked out across Paradise Glacier as the light began to spread her warm fingers up onto the icy slope. A contrail streamed in a huge arc across the sky -- it looked like it was reaching upward from off the top of Anvil Rock. It arched clear across to Mt. Adams. I looked down into the far valleys of the Stevens Canyon, barely able to see Stevens Creek . . . the melting waters of the nose of the Paradise Glacier.
This was the very spot I had always maintained the lost climbers would be found. I had stopped during every climb to Muir since January and looked across at this very ridge, remembering that relenting blizzard in January and knew in my heart that this was where they would be. I sat and shed a tear for Michelle Trojanowski. I so much wanted closure for her family and friends. I so wanted Rainier to give her back . . . she had been too long a sleeping beauty on this great expanse of rock and snow.
Four days later a helicopter spotted Michelle's body in a crevasse no less than 300 feet from where I sat . . .
My healing has begun . . .
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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We have a good 6 weeks to keep looking.
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Jo Jo
Mountain climber
Lacey, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Seamstress . . . I am going to the Mountain Festival in Ashford this weekend with Jay; camping overnight tomorrow night. We were thinking of climbing up to the Paradise Glacier and photographing one last time before the summer weather bails on us. I'm glad there is still six weeks of "good weather" left to try and find the last climber; although my personal feeling is that she [Seol Hee Jin] is in the crevasse Michelle was found in. From what I gather, there was a false floor about 40-50 feet down the crevasse with fresh blocks of ice wedged in the narrow part of the gap. There is a big possibility that she slid into the crevasse before the ice dislodged and formed that false floor. I know that an intensive search of the area was done last week and they couldn't find her. I find it hard to believe that she would have been anywhere but close to the others . . . in that kind of weather, that's where I would have felt safe. Will you be at the Festival? If you are, please come and tell me who you are -- I would love to give you a big hug :)
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Jo Jo
Mountain climber
Lacey, WA
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Sep 17, 2012 - 04:52am PT
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I photographed a huge crevasse on Paradise Glacier, Mt. Rainier, this morning. It was at 8,169 feet, so I am assuming it is the same one where Michelle Trojanowski and Eric Yang were found 9 days ago. It was a beautiful day but, despite the sunshine, blue skies, and awesome vistas, my mood was reflective and somber. I stepped down onto the glacier off the edge of the ridge and looked right down into the crevasse. I could hear the dripping water and my close-up photos of the walls of the crevasse revealed beautiful blue ice shards, layered on top of each other like feathers on a bird's wing. We stayed up there for sometime photographing and videoing the area for the family of Michelle Trojanowski. I have yet to make contact with them as they have been in Atlanta this weekend, so will not be sharing any of the images until they have had the opportunity to see them first. My journey is now nearly over. I am relieved that this day arrived but glad for the new months ahead. It is truly time for healing . . .
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 17, 2012 - 06:32am PT
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hey there say, jo jo...
what a sweet thing to do for the family...
sad feelings, i can sure understand...
you know--when the doors are open for us to help folks that have lost
loved ones, god gives us the grace to find ways to do these deeds...
thank you for sharing with us...
i can picture the beauty of the area, and can yet, still feel
the sadness... prayers, still, for the family...
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