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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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if you don't become proficient at wide stuff, there are a lot of great routes you're not going to climb because there is a gap in your skills.
Yep. That's why I started focusing on them, the std "work your weakness" approach, and a few pants-filling episodes on classic long routes. Then figured out I actually like them...most of the time anyway.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jul 24, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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I have no idea at all how to climb offwidths. Try to get inside and squirm. If at all possible, layback. I remember flailing on the first pitch of DNB, a 5.7 flared chimney, which looked like the hardest pitch on the route. If there are techniques to learn, I didn't.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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Ed, ignore JLP, he's a troll that doesnt need to be fed. He keeps parroting that line about the ow ratings with with nothing to back it up. This has been pointed out to him and he remains myopic. I don't know of anyone rating an ow 5.13 that hadn't climbed other kinds of 5.13's. Maybe he's sulking about the britts, but like has been said, they have experience in that grade range. However the rating shakes out after more ascents, i'm sure it will be seen to be in the right ballpark. But there will always be people like him who don't let experience with something affect their incidence in rating it. Maybe it's simply projection.
To change gears, like someone up thread said. Not all hard ow s are enduro, some have distinct hard cruxes I'd describe Squat, The Owl, and Paisano that way.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 24, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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One thing is pretty clear - the days of run-out wide crack climbing are mostly over (unless of course you can't afford it). My own personal history includes many variations on 'A Boy and His Tube Chock'.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 24, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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I don't know of anyone rating an ow 5.13 that hadn't climbed other kinds of 5.13's. Is this your best defense? I am talking about flashing them or redpointing in just a couple goes.
A 13 in just a few tries is a very rare thing, but seems commonplace in the OW world. I remain skeptical, to say the least.
I think the well known "hardman OW circuit" in Yosemite is pretty solid with considerable consensus - topping out around mid 12?
http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing-misc/yosemiteoffwidths/YosemiteOffwidths.html
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 24, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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A 13 in just a few tries is a very rare thing
C'mon, you're going to have to do better than that.
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ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
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Jul 24, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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I do all OWs on a TR since I have a secret weapon OW ropegun... his name is Weeg.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 24, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
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JLP's not trolling. I don't always agree with him (or her, as the case may be), but do think he's one of the more realistic and experienced voices on either here or MtnProj.
Is a strong opinion, forcefully stated, that you don't happen to agree with, what constitutes a troll these days? Really?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 24, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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I do all OWs on a TR since I have a secret weapon OW ropegun... his name is Weeg.
So your the silent partner he is always bragging about.
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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Nah Will, he's trolling. He whines on this subject every few months. Has nothing to do with how he does or doesn't climb. Just the way he manifests himself online. My answer to Ed s question.
Like i said, Just ignore him and he fades away.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 24, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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Ed said:
One night drinking beers at the Fish compound Russ opined that his favorite OW was The Living Conjunction 5.11d at JT... pretty tiny grade there, but as he observed "it's smeared with the DNA of the best climbers of the day who couldn't touch it" what's that all about?
I done the thing, on top rope of course.
Or as we like to say: "I fokked the monster" or ... maybe it fokked me.
What that is all about = sandbag.
But not a sandbag in the classical sense. Just a ludicrous rating really.
Don't even remember any offwidth moves (maybe at the start?). Although it is an overhanging maw, the crux is a tricky double knee bar torso swinging maneuver (never doing that on the 5.11+ on-site lead), assisted by finger locks as I recall. Then some burly DNA scavenging wide hand jams through a very steep flare to gain the exit.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 24, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Last bastion of true climbing?
Why, it's always been and will remain the pub.
Or Peter Haan whacking in pitons to protect an on-site free lead of Meatgrinder.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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I want to check that one (living conjunction) out sometime when we make a foray to the south lands again. I've never even seen it....
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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I think I may have to concede to The Warbler's point about hard, run-out slab.
Since the protection is pre-established and one must sack up to the standard of the time of the FA, it gets the win IMO.
I still think the combination of physical ability AND mental determination put OW in a strong second position, even with the advent of modern gear.
Thanks for all of the input, it's great food for thought.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 24, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Yes Mister E, counterintuitive, but fairly accurate.
We might start out by mentioning slab as a joke response, but when taking a closer look it's the only thing that's really limited constraint-wise in terms of protection and does have a sack-up-and-go element to it, just like offwidth used to have.
Keep in mind it's kind of silly dragging a ton of those giant cams around for the one nice offwidth pitch one is going to encounter during a 9 pitch route.
So the things haven't been completely tamed.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 24, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Yeah, Tarbuster...just walking around the store with ONE giant cam seems a bit, I dunno, flamboyant or something.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 24, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Hey. Just a question for you OW folks-
Am I allowed to wear an old wetsuit?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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Only if you have hand-jammies and a snorkel...
were you expecting a gimme? ;)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 24, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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And here's a photo I took a while ago near my house.
I specifically had Jay in mind, and this seems like an appropriate place to post it, finally.
Widefetish guys feel free to rip it off if you like it.
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