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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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GDavis- how far did you have to walk through the snow?
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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why can't BD put kevlar on the C4's? those wire cables always get fukked up
They could definitely use an upgrade there, but hey, replacing trigger wire should be in every serious climber's skill set. However, it does look like there is kevlar on the blue unit in OP's picture.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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How bout that 17% unemployment rate in Alpine County? Maybe things are better in a big city like SF where you can get a job making games to grow imaginary vegetables on your smart phone so you can make friends.
maybe the funniest non-RW/non-Farouk post I've yet read here
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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Some of my old chouinard cams say manufactured in rok is that republic of Korea?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
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There has always been alot of unemployed people in Alpine county mostly by choice.
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 12, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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It also looks like they are using a dyneema sling too, I remember reading somewhere that they thought the cable pinched skinny slings too much and they would only use nylon slings on their cams.
The article you remember is probably from their QC Lab blog. The narrower slings caused failure at ~10 Kn and kinking of the cable at 3-4 Kn. Maybe that load rating is sufficient for these pieces.
Is it just because it's not opaque, or does the tubing around the thumb loop look beefier? Also, does the red sling look doubled up?
it's not only the width of the sling but how it is attached. notice how bd doubles the sling around the cable. these new cams have that feature too. that is what makes the sling stronger around the cable and helps partially prevent the cable from pinching and also the pinched cable from cutting the sling. makes me feel safer :) although now i wonder about falling on cams that don't have this feature like my master cams.......is that sling gonna kink the cable and then the cable cut the sling if i take a whipper on it? sh#t?!?!?!
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 12, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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I'm more worried about the Chinese metals used to make the cams.
I mean, for f*cks sake, the Bay Bridge was made with Chinese Steel, and sh#t fell apart in 2009.
the piece that failed was fabricated in america 100%. it was a reinforcement piece used to patch a crack. someone i know was right behind the car that that piece landed on when it came off. it's the new span that is still being built that is chinese steel........time will tell on that one.......
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 12, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Well I bet the BD cams are made of the exact same material, so there.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 12, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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I used to sweet old dried paint chips off warehouse floors in Pamona in summer when I was 15 to make some cash, used to bus tables and work 16 hour days that I only could count as 8 being a projectionist building shitty movies in BFE. No ACLU to my rescue, just shitty jobs that we all get if we are lucky
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briham89
Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
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Jul 13, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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^hahahahaha this is becoming entertaining. Btw nice south park video clip gdavis, classic
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 13, 2012 - 02:01am PT
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People shop at WalMart, too.
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Red Wing
climber
Truckee
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Jul 13, 2012 - 10:33am PT
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These are pretty cool units, very well thought out. They are more flexible than a Master Cam. As the first photo shows, the larger sizes are dual axle. But the real design innovation was how BD increases the range of the smaller units. BD addresses the challenge of increasing the range of the smaller units by offsetting the axle. The smaller sizes have the range of a dual axle without having to accommodate two separate rods of metal in the head of the unit. Thus, it is compact, strong, and you get more range than any unit sized "Green Alien" through "Red Alien". My prediction is that people are going to be very pleased with the units.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jul 13, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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When they retail for $80+, would you rather have two cams that cover the same range, or a single wider range cam?
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Red Wing
climber
Truckee
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Jul 13, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Well surfstar, in this case I would rather have two cams that cover a wider range. These units will be rather affordable... : )
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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Jul 13, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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When they retail for $80+, would you rather have two cams that cover the same range, or a single wider range cam?
This sort of logic has always mystified me. You need however many pieces you need for a climb. The range isn't anywhere near as important. If you want to bring doubles from .4 to 3, that doesn't mean your partner is going to be psyched if you show up with four link cams thinking it will do the job.
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jul 13, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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BD addresses the challenge of increasing the range of the smaller units by offsetting the axle. The smaller sizes have the range of a dual axle without having to accommodate two separate rods of metal in the head of the unit.
Any chance of more detail on this, or a pic?
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Red Wing
climber
Truckee
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Jul 13, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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The axle design is hard to describe here, and I don't want to spread junk info. Its a totally new and original design concept. I give them a lot of credit for figuring this out.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jul 13, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Doesn't look that similar to me. I believe that is a u-stem system.
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jul 13, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Yeah, it's a u-stem but I'm talking about how the axle has eccentrics on it (which is what the patent is about). The eccentrics allow the lobes to rotate on different centers as if they were on a dual axle, but still be on a single shared axle. Would work just as well on a single stem as a u-stem.
Found a way to grab pics...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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