Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 12, 2013 - 04:07am PT
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The 2001 AAJ (p. 171) published a brief note which says 44 days were spent on the FA of Murcia (on El Cap):
El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that E.J. Luis Garcia Gallego and Alfonso Cerdán (Spain) established the route Murcia (VI 5.10 A4) on El Capitan over 44 days. Further details are lacking. (Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya) http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200117101/North-America-United-States-California-Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-New-Route
But on a spanish website, they call it 54 days and in 2007 (year wrong, so maybe time wrong also, unless Murcia was really their region/team name and not the route name...):
In 2007 the expedition Murcia formed by José Luis García Gallego and Raul Garcia, reached the top of El Capitan, the vertical mountain world after 54 days of ordeal, getting open a new avenue of winter. http://www.regmurcia.com/servlet/s.Sl?sit=c,30,m,1546&r=ReP-23868-DETALLE_REPORTAJES
27 days for the FA of Mediterraneo:
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198417102/North-America-United-States-CaliforniaYosemite-Valley-Kolana-Dome-West-Face-El-Capitan-Mediterraneo-Route
I posted previously, remembering about 42 days was spent on the FA of Verano Magico, but I don't have a source for that. I do remember seeing their hanging bivvy tent up on El Capitan weekend after weekend, without moving up much....
And Tom recalls 52 days for one of the Gallego brothers routes.
They once spent 69 days on the FA of a wall in Spain:
But it was in 1983 when a young José Luis García Gallego, then a law student, enters the history of mountaineering along with Miguel Angel Diez Vives. In that winter came into the west wall of Naranjo de Bulnes and did not leave until late spring.
For 69 days and nights and in one of the harshest winters in living memory in the Picos de Europa, the seasoned climbers remained hanging on the wall in one of the most memorable mountaineering feats have been performed in the giant Spaniard.
The feat led to opening a fabled route, called by mountaineers as "Winter Dreams" as well as the largest wall endurance record of world mountaineering history. http://www.regmurcia.com/servlet/s.Sl?sit=c,30,m,1546&r=ReP-23868-DETALLE_REPORTAJES
Chris Mac mentions "over 20 days" for Ring of Fire:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/731523/Chris-MacNamaras-AAJ-1998-Free-Fast-Clean
So, to summarize:
52? some Gallego brothers route - maybe Murcia, below
44 or 54 Murcia
42? Verano Magico
39 Wings of Steel
27 Wall of Early Morning Light / Dawn Wall (29 was wrong)
27 Mediterraneo
20+ Ring of Fire
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