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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 01:31pm PT
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I guess because he ripped to the deck from there on the first attempt when the micro brass ripped from the flare. In retrospect I don't know why anyone ever tried to lead any of the stuff up there. "Someone" bothered to bolt up Uncertainty Principle, for instance--quickly chopped. Ray O. bolted the sh#t out of a thing that lived in the brush he called "Silver Stream"...named because it had to have so many bolts so you wouldn't hit the deck on it after each successive move. besides that, it was A0 to start the thing. The first woodson 5.10a A0? The Sineater was nailed, then throughly comfortized and had expoxied in pins...then "someone" straight up bolted/sika'd a shiteload of holds on some overhanging boulders to make a "gym." People did some wacky ass sh#t down there. So anyhoo, I reckon that's why he drilled by the seam. Woodson lore will always be wrapped up in brush, bullsh#t, the drill and chisel. Still some kick ass stuff to climb though and them was those days.
Nahhh, Grug, it's not seal rock...it was this lower outcrop on the east side of the highway...it wasn't a boulder, it was a rock band bulging out of the hillside. I think we trespassed through some avocado grove to get to it...
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 01:40pm PT
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Yer various "questionable" Woodson routes...
Here's "someone" climbing Hairdo or Cooljerk ( i dont recall as they are right next to eachother). The crux "knob" on this thing blew up, but people would try to glue it back on. It would get passed from person to person. I think finally someone tried to screw it in or something. I don't know if its even still there, or the bolts. Anyone? Anyone?
Then there was this thing...a seam in a dark corridor, somewhere around Long's crack I think...a Ray O project.
all this stuff was happening in the mid-late 80s...i left S.D. in 1990.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Apr 28, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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Getting back to Rick's 40 foot fall. Man, I broke my back falling off of Generator Crack in 1995 - only 22 feet. I was told by my doctor, that they will automatically x-ray your whole damn body for any falls over 20 feet.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
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hmmmm....guess i'm way overdue for about 700 toe-to-skillcap x-rays.....
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Robb
Social climber
Flathead Valley, Montana
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Apr 30, 2006 - 01:47am PT
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"not fade away"
BVB
Bro, the mirror tells the truth... we're all fadin' away!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 30, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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whoa, how'd I get into a mussy nebula thread?!
Voodshun!!! Und YA!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 30, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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more Munge...
good times
Salad showing how to jam it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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"not fade away"
BVB
Bro, the mirror tells the truth... we're all fadin' away!
speak for yerself, babe...everyday is a new dawn...
everytime i boot up i still bust like a bubble,
flag and woodson together man you know you're in trouble
ain't nuthin' but a B thing maynard
two dime size crimpers and i'm skyward
anasazis are the shoe that saved me
steep limestone has the movez that slay me...
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Apr 30, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
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I don't mean to be rude or anything Bob, but what came next?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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twin toe hooks on the flake that allow you to match hands on the pretty damn good slopers on the lip, cut both feet loose while similtaneously doing a sick stomach crunch to kill the swing, then big "easy party" campus moves to a suspect bucket at the lip.
bring you feet up, mantle over, then fight off all the bouldering betties who are so stunned and amazed at your primeval prowess and animal magnatism they demand to do you on the spot.
(roubidoux 5.10a, on the outside. or woodson 5.11c. same as it ever was....)
somethin' like this....
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Apr 30, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
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I liked the part about the Betty and her friends--got pictures.
Oh, Robb, maybe just the two of us are fading away.
Cool move, Bob.
Transcend Life, Climb aka TL,C.
Best, Roger
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Leeeeeeeeedia, man.
Tom Lindner, I believe at Josh, not long after he got out of his back brace..note the F.R.O.G. chalkbag...
Woodson, eighties, euro-trash, Retropulsion...
I, Mini
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