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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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I forgot to mention Bev Clark. He knew Hemming well. He's still in Switzerland. I can get you in touch with him. Also Davie Agnew who's in the Jackson Hole area. And yes Court Richards is now in Montana. Rick Sylvester gave me his new address/email/phone just last weekend.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dave Dornan and Rick Horn are two more from Jackson in that era. I believe Rick still lives in Jackson and Dave lives in Michigan now.
Hi Jan...Rick Horn lives in Bozeman now (unless he moved back to Jackson very recently).
Bill Briggs lives in Jackson...I'd speculate that Bill has some Gary Hemming stories...being he was chairman and conductor of the famous Teton Tea Parties.
I heard a version that Bill discovered Mr Hemmings body the next morning... that may be hearsay since that version put Gary near the south footbridge over Cottonwood Creek.
Dom may want to follow up on Jeff's offer. There was a poster on Cascadeclimber.com insinuating that Exum guides had slain Gary...I'm sure, ridiculous allegations to Teton climbers of the era. Attempts to rewrite history and demonize the innocent to make a story can come about with an incident so long ago, some witnesses deceased and embellished versions of the incident making circuit.
Edit: Al Read and Rod Newcomb are still with Exum Guides
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dom,
I just sent you contact information for Jerry Gallwas.
Good luck with your research and please share the results with us here.
Cheers,
Steve Grossman
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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My only contact with Hemming was a night of drinking with him at the Moose bar, probably in 1966. I was a bit in awe of him but found him quite affable without the mad streak that he may have shown at times. Perhaps we didn't have enough money to really get plastered but I don't remember that we ended up excessively drunk.
I came away from that night having heard some good climbing tales and having had a glimpse into the life of a great climber.
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Dom Green
Trad climber
Sheffield UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 11:11am PT
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HI All,
Thanks so much for all of your help, I have had some great contacts from you which I am in the process of following up at the moment. As ever, please send any nuggets my way. I am sincerely grateful. There's plenty to go at for the time being and I'll endeavour to keep you posted about the end result, which will be a film about Hemming, with the rescue on the Dru in '66 as a fulcrum to the story.
cheers
Dom
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:43am PT
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There are a few snippets of info in Spirit of the Age, info
mostly provided by Royal -- when his memory was still strong...
You might also contact Jim Perrin, and I'm sure there is
some reading in his bio of Don Whillans...
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Jun 24, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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Gary's article, "A la recherche d'un equilibre," in the Oct 1964 La Montagne, was very influential to myself as a British climber. I unfortunately don't have a copy, but his discussion of wilderness was a new concept for someone from Europe. Anyone have a copy they could post?
I met him on a couple of occasions in Chamonix in 1964 or 1965. He was so different than any of the other American climbers then active in the Alps, let alone the European climbers! Which is why his life is so fascinating.
Great project!
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GLee
Social climber
Missoula MT
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Jun 24, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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Dom,
Check your email
Glee
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Dom Green
Trad climber
Sheffield UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2012 - 06:27am PT
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This is great stuff - thanks so much. Chris, I haven't had any luck with his article (A la recherche d'un equilibre,"). There's also an interview in Elle magazine which was conducted straight after the rescue and a number of articles worldwide (German, British and US) arising from the rescue.
Thanks Ed for the pic - I hear you re kodachrome!
Interesting reflection on how he was different, Chris - I'd be interested in hearing more of your thoughts about how he was different, he seems to have really found his own voice when in France.
Does anyone know about his time in England or Sweden at all? I believe he was in north Africa briefly too?
Thanks
Dom
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 25, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Dom- Contact the American Alpine Club library in Golden, CO. They should be able to scan your article for you. I am quite sure that they have the magazine set.
No help from the BAC library on this project?
Cheers
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 25, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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Ed---great picture(yes, I do love Kodachrome!!!!). OK,I think Harlin, Frost, Hemming, who's on the far right? Alan
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 25, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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In 1970, I met Yvon Chouinard in Ventura, and we talked quite a bit. I mentioned to him that Gary Hemming had a huge influence on me, probably was the reason I started climbing and mountaineering. We talked about the crazy things people climb in France. Yvon then mentioned that Gary had written the start of a guidebook for the chalk cliffs in Etretat (on the NW coast of France), and gave me a copy. It was a bunch of hand written notes, sketches and included a recipe to make "pitons" to hold in chalk (a piece of steel partially cut crosswise along part of its length!). I planned to send the manuscript to the french magazine "La Montagne" but the document was destroyed in a flood of my belongings shortly after. Yvon might have some recollections about Gary's experiences.
Thanks for bringing Gary's story forward. He has been my hero all my life. Cheers!!
Phillip.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 25, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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Apparently Gary Hemming was on the first ascent of Toe Jam in Hidden Valley Campground in Joshua Tree National Park.
FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, 11/52.
Barbara Lilly lent me a photo of the First Ascent showing Gary leading. I have a digital copy somewhere. Let me know if you have an interest in it.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Jun 25, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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Stewart(? Stuart) Fulton on the right?
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Jun 25, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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You should talk to Jack Turner. You cn contact him through the Exum Guide service. He may know how to reach Tom Kimbrough. Both of them knew Gary well.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 26, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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Here is the article in Montagne & Alpinisme, we all want to see. Many thanks to Alex Depta at AAC Library for grunting this all out for us!!!!
It is interesting Hemming leads off with a quote from Robert Guillaume, the french climber:
"Pour moi chaque course en montagne doit etre l’objet de la recherche de la perfection"
"Each route in the mountains must be the object of the search for perfection"
A La Recherche d'un Equilibre by Hemming. October 1964
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 26, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
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Kelsey is probably back in Wyoming by now. He resides in Bishop during the winter. E-mail:
joekelsey1@aol.com
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Jun 26, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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Am preparing to translate the La Montagne article. Likely several Tacoistes could do a better job. Let me know if any of you are on it so we don't duplicate effort.
Chris
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