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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 20, 2012 - 06:55am PT
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Be safe up there, Richard. Looking forward to the pictures.
Edit: Also, my puny brain can't handle your multiple name variants.
Edit: Also, I'd bet Sweet Apple Acres that madboiter1 = madbolter1 <> madbolterI.
It's no troll.
Edit: It's a space station.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 20, 2012 - 11:19am PT
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Another thing I had forgotten - Richard is a practising Seventh Day Adventist. He observes the traditional O.T. sabbath from Friday sunset through Saturday sunset. He would knott climb on a Saturday, in the same way as he and Mark didn't climb on Saturday.
I don't know if he would be allowed to post on a Saturday, however. Doing so might cause him to go to heck.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 20, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Does one go to heck in a handbasket?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 20, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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Hmm. Good point, Pete. I hadn't considered that.
The suspense builds...
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madboIter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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Well, I know that nothing I say with this screen name will be credible, but this IS Richard Jensen. I log in as normal, as I've done for years, and THIS is the account I'm saddled with. It's like something is very, very screwed up on that Taco's back end with my account! I've changed nothing, but now I get this slight variant of my former screen name. I don't know who to contact to address it, but it really is me.
Pete, you can tell because I just emailed you virtually the same thing from my conclusivesystems email account. So, you know that's for real. And I do have Internet in the evenings if I hike further out the train about 1/2 mile. So, most evenings I hike out and catch up on emails, post to the blog, and so forth. (Oh, and the blog is mine also.) I'm really baffled what's going on with my account, and I hope that somebody can alert the right people to connect my account up with my old screen name and past postings! VERY irritating indeed.
The pictures on the blog can be found in the "pictures here" gallery links on many of the postings. I'm about to post more, and tomorrow I'll have a bunch of the infamous hook anchor.
I combined the first two pitches and anchored about 30 feet below where they say to. Looking up that 30 feet, it's crumbly crap, and they tout another "bad belay" on their topo. Where I stopped, you can get multiple buried peckers, along with two of their buried bashies. It's the best series of placements I've seen so far, and a perfect anchor spot. It's about a 170-foot pitch, which is what these goofballs SHOULD have done in the first place. Instead, they intentionally broke things up as they did TO have the stupid hook anchor. AND, if you're just gonna drill all the way up the thing, why not just stop where makes sense and plant bolts for the anchor, even if you CAN'T get other good placements?
These nutjobs were WEAK in the pitches and then tried to be heroes at the BELAYS!!! SO, so stupid! And, given how things are turning out, I'm not even inclined to try to maintain their "no bolts at anchors" bit. Everything I've got is bombproof for a downward pull, but nothing good for an upward one. A nice, beefy, 1/2 x 4 1/2 inch five-piece with a rap-ring on it will serve a lot of purposes at the same time, AND it will last basically forever! If I do that sort of thing at each anchor, it should be possible to rap the route. Still just thinking.
Anyway, two pitches up, and the drilled/trenched crap continues!
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 20, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
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Hi Richard! Hope you're well up there!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 20, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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I did not find a madboIter Troll duplicate on this thread!
madboIter1 9 posts on ST starting on May 16th 2012. Then two posts in 2006.
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_forum.php?dcid=OzMzPDU4NiY,
First home was WallaWalla, WA, then Denver.
No other madbolt1 on the thread at the moment.
Did the troll delete, or is this the result of madbolter1 inhaling too much sand?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 20, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Well, how about that - madboIter1 really IS Richard Jensen!
The only way I can confirm this is because of the email he just sent me, which was in direct reply to the email I sent to him at his legit email address:
"This is really weird!!! I log in as normal, as I've done for years, and my user name comes up as madboLter1. Not as madbolter1."
Note from Pete: He really means his user name comes up as madboIter1. Perhaps it is hard to tell an I from an L on his portable device?
"I've changed nothing, so I have to assume that somebody at ST has screwed this up and is no longer properly linking my account with my past posts. I don't even know how to address this, and I sure can't deal with it now. But it's me, even though the screen name is screwed up.
Thanks for the heads-up, Pete, as always!!!"
Well, I'll be buggered. Certainly you can understand my confusion, when there was a previous imposter for Richard who was madbolterI. Thanks to rincon for the bump.
Da_Dweeb had figured it out, because he knows Richard. Thank frickin' goodness that crazy bastard left out the damn ponies! ;)
So Richard can *still* climb, eh? Not bad for an old fart. Hey Mark Smith, why aren't YOU still climbing too?!
Dang, now I gotta go back and read everything.
Note to our webmaster: any chance you can fix this? Has this happened to anyone else? Very strange.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 21, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Hooraay! I will start up a Supertopo pony thread to celebrate! It will be okay because I'll put (OT) next to the thread title
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 21, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Hey Mark Smith, why aren't YOU still climbing too?!
Mark Smith turned 50 rather recently. Is there climbing after 50?
Also, Mark Smith has the nasty problem of a real job, one that expects him to schedule multi-week trips in the summer, a time when Richard Jensen thinks the summer heat of Utah would be too much for his (Richard's) aging frame. (Seriously, I was invited, but declined.)
Hey, on another front, here's what I find as far as who MadBolter is:
madbolter1: the original handle for Richard Jensen
madboiter1: the new handle for Richard Jensen. (Based on a phone call I had with Richard tonight, the Taco seems to post some of Richard's stuff under one name, and some under the other. Richard has no control on which name will come up when he posts. Maybe Spurrier can help figure this out.)
madbolteri: a self-acknowledged troll mimicking madbolter1. The "i" is displayed in upper case, making it look like a "1".
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 21, 2012 - 03:31am PT
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Basically, the guy who is pretending to be OP Richard Jensen is in fact OP Richard Jensen.
He's trolled HIMSELF.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 21, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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Over 50 and a job... dang, that sucks!
;-)
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 21, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Tada... I'm back as the real madbolter1. Don't know what happened. Same login, but now I'm back. Sorry for the confusion, but NOT, repeat (all caps) NOT my fault! OKAY?
LOL
Enough caps for y'all now?
Anyway, MANY new pics on the blog. First two pitches up and cleaned, and I took the time (solo) to set up for many pics and video clips to document all I've found. I've got peckers IN trenched head holes (good seams in the back... no need to trench). I've got bashies less than 18 inches apart. I've got DRILLED ANGLES fore and aft of the hook anchor. I've got very enhanced hook placements at the hook anchor. It goes on and on. Photo proof of one of the great botches in climbing history, and the lead goofball said, "The rating is not a proposal. This is harder than Intifada, which was A6. So, the route is A6+."
NOT "harder than Intifada," even with all the conniving to manufacture a rating! And Intifada wasn't considered A6 for well more than a decade before these guys did "Look Out! Danger!"
Looking up at the thing almost a year ago, I actually expected some seriously hard climbing... not A6, of course, but perhaps A5. I honestly can't believe the levels of absurdity these guys went to in order to manufacture a rating (and ego pump). And what they did to the rock would be unbelievable without the pics. Sad, so sad.
I'll go up another pitch (also rated A5) and see if the absurdity continues. I'm not committing yet to going further or bailing. I'm just taking this one day at a time.
Oh, and, PLEASE... no ponies! But thanks for the well-wishes.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 21, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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HAHAHA! All right, bud. No ponies, I Pinkie Pie promise.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 21, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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The FA are liars in the great tradition of Cesare Maestri.
those certainly look like drilled angles which equal bolts.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 22, 2012 - 09:01am PT
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bumpty
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 22, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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Weird shit
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 22, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Well, I'll continue for awhile to see if it gets any better. Thanks for the support, guys. This is one weird route indeed!
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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May 22, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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How does anybody get excited about aiding up a dirt pile?
Any debauchery will melt away in a few years.
It's pretty existential that way.
Also, some part of me can't help but be suspicious that the FA team reasoned that the melting away of the route would cover the evidence that they had torn out their drilled placements. They could claim it was as hard as they liked - at the time that _they_ climbed the route.
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