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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 29, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Yeah, I know. I just climbed it. Trust me, there are many "natural" lines one could follow up there.
But your description is a bit embellished. The first bolt is no more than 25ft and not R to get there. The second is no more than 60ft from there with two knob tieoffs and 5.8 knob hopping between. It's after the second bolt that things get a bit sketchy as it's a long runnout traverse up and left through less then stellar rock.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 29, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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Positive on the bolts!
How long has it been since you last lead the route? Memories have a tendency to "develop" over timea ya know.
Not sayin' it isn't a ballsy route, just not out there insane is all.
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bergbryce
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Huh, and there you have it.
Nice job and thanks for the report.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Dec 30, 2013 - 11:19am PT
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No Sal, the original line went up and slightly right from the first bolt, a taped on sling for psychological support. Not much of a challenge by today's standards, especially with bolts sprouting all over that section of wall that lend additional psychological support. It was a very good FA lead for it's time (1977) by Bill, ground up, no pre inspection what so ever, outcome uncertain.
EDIT: Only two bolts on the fa, 1st at 60' second at 110+'. No not a Bachar Yerian or anything in that league, but more like the standard runout limey gritstone leads of that era.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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B-Y of tahoe is a one pitch climb whose difficulty is less difficult than 5.11, or even 5.10c? C’mon I think there is something way more bold out there. If the guy that did the FA was psychologically unstable, as stated up the thread, I don’t see anything special about this lead. I know a few people who like to solo because they do not value life that much. Whatever, it was his battle, I have not walked a mile in his shoes. But it seems this climb gets way too much fuss for what it is.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 30, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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I remember being grossed out as I clipped the
First bolt( which had been chopped
patched,chopped ,patched . Chopped and
patched in the same 6 inch area.
Ghetto.and a barnagerie of non ethics!
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Dec 30, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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I fail to see the issue. It's not like someone used a demo saw to cut a crack down the wall. (which I then bolted...)
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 30, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
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I remember being grossed out as I clipped the
First bolt( which had been chopped
patched,chopped ,patched . Chopped and
patched in the same 6 inch area.
Ghetto.and a barnagerie of non ethics!
What a clusterf*#k of wankery. If that is true, it's truly disgusting.
I've only climbed at Sugarloaf one time in 1986 (which is a bummer to say in its own right) so I can by no means be considered a local. I on sighted Finger lock, Fracture pitch 1, and Taurus on a stellar day at a beautiful area. It's pathetic that the stone is being butchered like this. From what I've read here it started with Cotrell. He should've been content climbing that terrain on a top rope. He wasn't, so more brainless dog sh#t followed and followed.....Shining example for future climbers of how not to act.
Two cents.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 30, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Oh Jebus the punter, you really are a drama queen aren't you. This is the first iv'e seen of this thread and I had to comment on the idiots, that call themselves climbers, who participated in butchering the stone on Tapestry. As usual, I see you are ten posts ahead of me.
Four chop, patch, and rebolt jobs in an area of rock the size of a paper plate? C'mon man, that's the laugher. You guys really have it together up there don't you?
As the smiling, happy cragging local that you profess to be, you should be disgusted too. Instead you just keep pedaling the moderates of yesteryear and blabbing on the web about it. It's Something you've become quite adept at.
BTW, most of the old men you refer to climbed harder thirty years ago than you ever will, and many still do today! Ha ha.... now that's laughable you flexing poser! Lol!
Blather from JTP......
just to convince us
Jebus the punter....Sorry to break it to you but there is no "us". Its only a computer man. Your'e all alone waterboy. As evidenced by the countless hours you spend on this "old man" climbing site.
More blather from JTP....
I'm done on this silly topic for a while
Your'e not done are you? Of course not. You love drama. You'll never be done on the internet. That's the only way a mediocre climbing talent like you can get the attention he so desperately craves.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Dec 30, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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who's got the bolt tattooed
next to their ass crack?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 31, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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Jeebus the punter didn't offer an opinion. He launched right into attack mode as usual.
No Ron, thankfully he still only stalks me on this sight. Sorry you have to deal with JTP's unwanted advances outside of here. He's clearly a very lonely little gal.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Dec 31, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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regards jebus.
i respect you and your
tactical jesting,
your climbing talents,
and your position within our community.
i hope to rope with you someday.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 31, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
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Figures.
What's most important though is that everyone is a smiling, happy cragging local like JTP.
Jeebus The Punter=swollen ball bag
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 31, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
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Wasnt as bad as the one where he wished me a slow death from cancer though
Stand up guy that punter he is. Especially considering that is exactly what has happened to more than a few well respected and well loved members of the climbing community as of late.
Jeebus the Punter, did you actually take the time to draft and send an in depth personal E-mail to another member of your climbing community wishing him a slow death from cancer? Of course you did. It was your childish response to what you considered to be "roughing the Punter". I wouldn't wish that on anybody. Not even you. And this is how you make it all better in your mind.....
My remarks were made in anger (and apologized for)
Wow, who's the intellectually challenged ballbag? You are Punter. You're a narcissistic half wit windbag. Be careful what you wish on people. Iv'e seen it happen first hand. God forbid it should happen to any of us. It's one thing to suck at climbing but you suck at life.
Pure class from the "celebrity" JTP aka nut sack.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 31, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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That was Jeremiah Chim..
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Ha!
Bit rusty on that one. Too much time lately in the concrete jungle.
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hbt
climber
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from the OP:“Tapestry starts up Farley for 20 feet.” While that may be true of the FA, a direct start to Tapestry to the left of Farley was done before blue velvet.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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ROTFLMAO!
That can't be real.
Well these guys had to "learn" to climb somewhere eh?......
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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That "route" has only three less bolts than Royal Robbins used on the 1961 first ascent of the Salathe Wall! LOL! awesome.
breakin' new ground these guys are....literally.
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