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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 28, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Wow Rene, that sure is a wild concept, ripe for a whole 'nother thread.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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hi all, thanks for all your input, happy climbing, mike a.
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Gene
climber
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Mar 29, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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Maybe the first Ascentists should get royalties just like musicians. You don't see anybody just coming out and releasing a Beatles album. Really,I know it gets crazy but whats the difference?
That's a provocative question. Are we ready for climbs to be intellectual property owned by the FA team? No.
But what about this? If the FA team makes known to a guidebook author that they don’t want a route published, should the author respect that wish?
g
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 29, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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Yes, intellectual property on public lands seems pretty far fetched, not to mention obvious trad climbs where the FA party had little to no part in "creating" anything, but just happened to find it first. And the implication of incentivizing the development of even more routes by possible royalties is pretty scary.
Up to the author I suppose to respect wishes to exclude routes. Much easier to exclude entire crags than to exclude a route here and there on the same cliff as many other existing and recorded climbs. It can get confusing for the first time visitor to use a topo with some routes included and others left out, whether intentional or not. But hey, the bonus is that fine adventures often come out of having little to no tangible (or even accurate) information! In that sense, as long as expectations are set, the minimalist guidebook is a great service.
Hey Mike,
Are these latest guides on the shelf at PGSF or other bay area gyms, as in the past? If so, many of us can take a gander first.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Mar 29, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
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Climbers are cheap motherf**kers, arent we?
I mean, arguing that 70 bucks is too much to spend on the accumulated effort of scores of people over many years seems crazy to me. Oh you have so many other things to spend money on.. ummm.. chalk... and beer?
Skiers spend more than that on a single day pass at virtually any half well known ski hill these days.. photographers regard a lens as cheap if its less than a grand... to quote one example of many...
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2012 - 08:55am PT
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morning @ nate d., yes, one can get all my books at any pg, cheers mike a.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Mar 30, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Hey Mike,
I'll take one of the Shuteye books. How do I contact you? Sorry if it's already been answered up thread. I don't have much time right now. E-mail me if you have a moment.
Thanks,
Scott
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Double D
climber
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Mar 30, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Wow Mike, congrats on the books! Missing hanging around the campfire and hearing your warped humor. Best wishes with the books and if I weren't so geographically challenged, plus surrounded by such awesome climbing in my back yard, I'd be stoked to own all three books.
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casey yorkunas
Trad climber
CA/CO
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Dec 21, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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Just wanted 2 post my topo's of some cool routes me and friends did a while back on fresno dome. Dont know if they are in the new guide so if not here's my crusty topo's....
Petey the Underdog is to the right of south pillar in a gully with an obvious arching finger crack on the wall to its left. This route takes small tcu's and stoppers. On all ascents I traversed under the roof into the chimney on the left and then back onto the face to reach the 1-bolt natural pro anchor (not set up for lower off). It's a worthy 2 pitch gear route with tech crack climbing to thought provoking 5.10 face climbing on gear.
Green monster is a one pitch variation off the easy bolt routes up the south face. It's the obvious green lichen witch shaped flake on the north face of the steep summit blob. Crux is bouldery moves out of the gully/ramp to gain the overhanging thin hands corner. There is a large jug before you get established in the crack that I used a sky hook for pro on the F.A., without a large hook this section is R-rated. There is a one bolt anchor @ the top of the pitch. Finish out easy cracks to top-out.
Peace All.....:)
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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casey yorkunas
Trad climber
CA/CO
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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Yeah its the corner/roof/flake on the north side of the summit blob in that picture. Start is bouldery (don't care if someone adds one bolt), hard 5.10 through roof. Somebody please repeat "petey the underdog" I remember it being epic so it probably doesn't suck too bad. Don't know about fixed rope by Petey it was a long time ago, it has a chimney on the left and a hands corner on the right. Petey goes up the short corner (ultra sharp arete on left wall of corner) to double thin cracks. If someone wants to add a bolt at the anchor for lower-off go for it :)....
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Casey,
Can you confirm DL is for Dave Lane, as your partner on these? Was the Green Monster also done in 98? Have any more precise dates?
Thanks!
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casey yorkunas
Trad climber
CA/CO
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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Yeah DL is Dave Lane. He was with me when we went to the rim on Petey and Green Monster. I had sent the first pitch of Petey earlier in the summer and was belayed by Zeke Federman. Don't have exact dates, for sure summer of 98'.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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Hmmmm.....is there drama in the works? some where along the beaten path, rumor has it that soomeone was f#ckin' with Green Monster after you and DL put it up. LG?
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casey yorkunas
Trad climber
CA/CO
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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I'm not one for drama, just good times.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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Not you Casey....
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
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thanks for getting back with me on fresno dome info, this season for sure will check if out, hopefully i will run in to you at fresno dome, i am up there alot, i am somewhat of a local, the girl friend has a place in oakhurst, so i am there a ton, if you need any beta for shuteye, let me know and i will try and hook you up, cheers arechiga.
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casey yorkunas
Trad climber
CA/CO
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Jan 26, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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More crusty soyo topos of cool routes...... These routes are on perfect rock "All Along the Watchtower" has an epic finish....:)ffa's: C.Y. D.L. M.M A.M. (summer 98")
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Thanks for getting the guidebook out Mike! I will make sure to pick one up and check out this place, seems awesome.
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