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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey Werner, do you have any idea what these guys are talking about? Are 80's, 90's and 00s, like 5.80,5.90,5.00s? Are there a,b,c,d subdivisions?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I think free'ing two Grade VI's on El Cap in sub-24 hours is fairly noteworthy ...
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WBraun
climber
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Roger
80's, 90's and 00's means the years 1980's 1990's 2000's , and so on.
Just more stupid mundane climbing drool for these fanatics ......
:-)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey Werner, you know you are old and over the hill when you make a joke and someone with a concerned look gently touches your arm and explains reality to you in a slow, steady voice.
I think it is funny that this service is provided by one of my contemporaries. Want to move to Cleveland, Werner? I have a full time job offer for you.
I know that you are kidding about "mundane climbing:" This list is anything but.
Elcapinyoazz, what is the story behind the season when bigwall speed climbing took off?
Melissa, in answer to your question about getting paid to climb in the 70s, I think the answer is no, no one got paid to climb, at least no Yosemite climbers (I think this started in the 80s). Guiding became more prevalent in the 70s. A few folks made a little money working in movies on stunts or rigging. A few made money publishing or presenting--not much money in presenting. A few worked making gear.
Does anyone know the details of the first paid climbers; who was first (Bachar?) and what products/companies? George Meyers told me a few years ago, but I cannot remember anything about the details except that he thought, at the time, the compensation was unsustainable.
Ed, are you planning to organize this is to something?
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Leo Holding's Prophet should be on the list and I am told it is very bad ass runout old school for a modern route
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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I think what Ed is looking for is information for the "History" section for the upcoming Yosemite Guidebook. If you think there is something that should be in that section of a guidebook then offer up.
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Double D
climber
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Randy Leavitt's Book of Hate... has it even seen a second?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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imagine updating this history:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=655407&msg=659915#msg659915
a continuation from about 1986/1987, probably relooking at the 80's just to make sure it jibes with what is in the guide....
certainly there is room for Melissa's "style change"
and there should be much more about aid... and the wild path of its evolution
The 00's were pretty amazing,
I'll be getting to the 90's, sometime next week I reckon...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aid gear...I have to wonder if w/o hybrids some places would have turned into such flaring holes that they'd be bolted by now? And even though I saw their invention as dating to the 70's, did cam hooks come into use before the 80's? Ball nuts/sliders?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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here are a list of aid climbs done in the 00's (some FA dates are not known... if you know them be a champ and tell us!)
2000
High Line VI 5.10r A4 FA Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright
Laughing at the Void VI 5.7 A2+ FA Jerry, Sigrid, and Lynnea Anderson
Renaissance Wall VI 5.9 A3 FA Bob Gaines, Alan Bartlett
Operation Bravo V 5.9 A3 FA Bryan Kay, Jonathan Blair
2001
Known Offender V 5.11b A3+ FA Ammon McNeely, Jennifer Kelly
2002
Endangered Species VI 5.8 A4+ FA Jon Blair, Mark Garbarini
Age of Exploration V 5.9 A3+ FA Brian Kay, Josh Thompson.
Tora Bora VI 5.9 A3+ FA Josh Thompson, Brian Kay
Reign in Blood VI A5 FA. Eric Kohl
Quo Vadis VI 5.9 A4+ FA Jacek Czyz
The Twisted Road VI 5.12 FA Paul Turecki, Kristen Kremer, Greg Collins
In Justice For All VI A5 FA Eric Kohl
Martyr's Brigade VI 5.11 A5+ FA Jim Beyer
2003
Sticky Rice VI 5.6 A4 FA Kibum Lee, Kipum Kim
High Life V 5.9 A3+ FA Bryan Kay, Josh Thompson, Jamie Mundo
2004
New Age V 5.8 A3 FA Josh Thompson, Jamie Mundo
Mythenthropic Execution IV 5.8 A3 FA Josh Thompson, Bryan Law
Voices of the Drowned IV 5.8 A2 FA Jamie Mundo, Josh Thompson
2005
Resisting Arrest V 5.8 A3 FA Jamie Mundo, Josh Thompson
Great Southern Trend Kill VI 5.10 A3+ FA Jamie Mundo, Josh Thompson
Block Party VI 5.9 A4+ FA Dave Turner
Atlantis VI 5.8 A4+ FA Dave Turner
2006
The Crucible VI 5.9 A3+ FA Bryan Kay, Josh Thompson, Mark Garbarini
2010
Scarface V 5.8 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Josh Mucci
???
Prowd VI A3 FA Bryan Law
Psychedelic Shack VI 5.10 A3+ FA ?
The Vodka Putsch VI 5.10 A4 FA ? Bill Russell, Pete Takeda
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Dr.Knox
Trad climber
Salzburg, Austria
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1986 Wolfgang Gullich free solos Seperate Reality
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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parking lot KO's?
Cameron free solo of that wide thing?
Skinner/Pianna on Salathe?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Has anyone mentioned the 1982 Wings of Steel crapdown?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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I remember running into Bachar at the Mountain Room bar after his free solo on Cookie - "HFS!"
(HFS = Holy F*#king Shit)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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BVB and the Evil Ex score their dream house in El Portal, 1987:
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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some Yosemite highlights from the 1990s, have at it!
1990
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz climb the Rostrum, The West Face of El Capitan, Crucifix and Astroman
Peter Croft solos Steck-Salathé, N.Butt. Middle Cathedral, Royal Arches, Regular Route North Dome, and Arrowhead Arête
Hidetak Suzuki FA Van Belle Syndrome, 5.13c
Ron Kauk FA Crossroads 5.13a
Dave Schultz FA Meat Grinder Arête 5.13b
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz speed ascent of The Nose (6h40m)
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz speed ascent of Salathé Wall (10h6m)
1991
Peter Croft repeats Van Belle Syndrome, 5.13c
Scott Cosgrove FA Black Fly, 5.13b
Hans Florine and Steve Schneider speed ascent of the Nose (8h5m)
Hans Florine and Andy Puhvel speed ascent of the Nose (6h3m)
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz speed ascent of the Nose (4h40m)
Scott Burke FA Shockwave 5.13b
Jerry Moffatt FA The Force V9
1993
Ed Barry FA Whipcord 5.13c
Jerry Moffatt FA Dominator V12
Peter Croft and Hans Florine speed ascent of the Nose (4h22m)
Hans Florine roped solo ascent of the Nose (14h)
Steve Schneider, Bill Price and Jeff Schoen attempt FFA of Excaliber
Todd Skinner and many others FFA Direct Northwest Face of Half Dome 5.13d
Lynn Hill FFA of The Nose 5.13b
1994
Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove, Greg Epperson attempt FFA of Muir Wall, cited for power drilling
Lynn Hill free ascent of The Nose in a day (23h)
Steve Schneider and Hans Florine climb The Nose, Lurking Fear and West Face of El Capitan in a day.
Dave Schultz, Scott Franklin, Jason Karn attempt FFA of North American Wall/New Jersey Turnpike
Dave Schultz, Scott Franklin, Jason Karn attempt second free ascent of Salathé Wall
Alan Lester and Pete Takeda attempt FFA of Dihedral Wall
Steve Schneider, Bill Price, Jeff Schoen, Alan Lester attempt FFA of Lurking Fear
Hank Caylor and Alan Lester attempt second free ascent of Southern Belle
Rolando Garibotti and Jon Rosemengy speed ascent of Lurking Fear (13h)
Rolando Garibotti and Adam Wainwright speed ascent of Tripple Direct (8h20m)
Rolando Garibotti and Adam Wainwright speed ascent of The Shield (18h20m)
Rolando Garibotti and Rob Slater speed ascent of The Nose (5h48m)
Steve Schneider and Jeff Schoen speed ascent of West Buttress of El Cap (18h1m)
Steve Schneider, Scott Stowe and Lance Allred speed ascent of Chinese Water Torture (17h15m)
Steve Schneider and Mark Deger speed ascent of Dihedral Wall (27h38m)
Kevin Thaw and Adam Wainright FFA Direct North Face of Sentinel (V 5.12a)
1995
Alex Huber free climbs all the pitches of Salathé Wall
climbers from Prescott College volunteer cleanup on The Nose
Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston, Brian Guizot speed ascent of Diehedral Wall (less than 24h)
Scott Stowe, Steve Gerberding and Dave Bengston speed ascent of The Shortest Straw (24h43m)
Joe Terravechia and Peter Coward climb The Nose and RNWF in a day
Andy Puhvel speed solos The Prow (9h)
Hans Florine and Peter Coward speed ascent of Zodiac (10h57m)
Hans Florine solo speed ascent of WFLT (5h56m)
Chris and Morgan McNamara climb Zodiac (youngest to do it 16 and 13)
Bob Gaines and Scott Cosgrove FA How The West Was Won V,5.12b
Hans Florine, Peter Coward and Steve Schneider speed ascent of Son Of Heart (29h24m)
Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe and Dave Bengston speed ascent Pacific Ocean Wall (36h24m)
Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe and Dave Bengston speed ascent The Bad Seed (19h58m)
Steve Schneider, Mark Deger and Kevin Thaw speed ascent of Horse Chute (27h7m)
Conrad Anker, Topher Gaylord and Steve Schneider speed ascent of Wet Denim Daydream (less than 24h)
1996
Christian Zenz and Christian Wassertheurer charged for rescue off El Cap for being ill equipped
huge rock fall on GPA
Peter Coward and Hans Florine climb RNWF and DNWF in a day
Greg Murphy and Chan Harrell speed ascent of RNWF (3h24m)
Hans Florine and Peter Coward speed ascent of RNWF (3h1m)
Hans Florine, Mark Melvin and Conrad Anker speed ascent of North American Wall (21h48m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Al Swanson speed ascent of Mr. Midwest (21h)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of Iron Hawk (33h50m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of Lost in America (26h55m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of Lunar Eclipse (23h24m)
Conrad Anker, Scott Stowe and Dave Bengston speed ascent of Mirage (20h2m)
Erik Weihenmayer climbs The Nose, first blind ascent
Abby Watkins and Vera Wong speed ascent of The Nose (16h30m)
Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt speed ascent of The Nose (17h40m)
Lou Renner and Matt Brooks FA Galactic Hitchhiker VI, 511a/b
Jared Ogden and Rob Miller speed ascent of the RNWF (17h)
1997
Aischann Rupp eight 1 day ascents of Salathé Wall
Aischann Rupp and Silvo Karo speed ascent of the DNWF (11h20m)
Yuji Hirayama free ascent of Salathé Wall (38h)
Ron Kauk FA Magic Line (5.14b)
Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt speed ascent of Salathé Wall (30h)
Yosemite Valley largest flood in recorded history
Dougald McDonald and Chris McNamara clean ascent of North American Wall
Dave Dyess and A.C. Robertson clean ascent of Mescalito
Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott and Chris Kalous second ascent of Reticent Wall
Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott and Chris McNamara speed ascent Lost in America (24h47m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of New Jersey Turnpike (24h48m)
Jared Ogden, Cameron Lawson, Willie and Damian Benegas speed ascent of Atlantic Ocean Wall (50h)
Kevin Thaw and Chris Kalous second ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster
Peter Coward, Steve Schneider and Hans Florine speed ascent of Eagle's Way (14h27m)
Sylvia Vidal and Pep Masip FA Saraganta VI,5.9 A4
Eric Kohl FA Cluster F*#k 2000
1998
Lynn Hill climbs Midnight Lightning V8
Dean Potter and Rick Cashner FFA South Central 5.12 R
Dean Potter and Rick Cashner FFA of p1 Silent Line 5.13
Alex and Thomas Huber FA El Niño (VI 5.13c, A0)
Scott Burke free climbs every pitch of The Nose
Leo Holding and Patrick Hammond second ascent of El Niño
Alex and Thomas Huber FFA Freerider 5.12d
Dean Potter solo the RNWF (4h16m)
Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke FA Disorderly Conduct VI 5.9 A3+
Miles Smart and Brian McMillan speed ascent of Aurora (23h55m)
1999
Hans Florine and Nancy Feagin climb The Nose and RNWF in a day
Chris McNamara and Mark Melvins girdle traverse of El Capitan
Tommy Caldwell frees Salathé Wall
Chris Sharma second ascent of Excellent Adventure 5.13b/c
Dean Potter and José Pereya speed ascent of Salathé Wall
Dean Potter solo of the RNWF and the Nose in a day (23h)
Hans Florine solo of the RNWF and the Nose in a day (20h40m)
Dean Potter and Steph Davis speed ascent of the RNWF (3h45m)
Dean Potter solo Blind Faith 5.11d
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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what happened in 1992?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 11, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
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Scott Burke free climbs every pitch of The Nose
You actually believe that?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 11, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
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Scott Burk - no "e".
Edit: Leo's e-mail is "leo_burk@..." Although it's commonly spelt Burke, apparently not in this case.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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I didn't say "lead free" every pitch...
thanks for checking the detail...
and I thought it had an "e" Anders...
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