Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
|
|
My Baja trip is postponed so the party IS ON!
Yes lets sport bolt everything AND make The RADS slow, lowest common denominator!
Just kidding.
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
Tapes, does that mean you don't consider us climbing gods anymore? I'm crushed.
OK Murf, lets power up the drill -- Zorba here we come.
Craig, DE (and Marge) are coming...Dave had some silly idea about a motorcycle trip in Baja getting in the way...he has since come to his senses.
Maybe he figured out -- be there or be slandered.
DPH (remember those initials on those homemade hangers) just called to confirm too.
Craig, if you're nice, I'll bring a new guide for you....
|
|
de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
|
|
Sketchy, it's be there AND be slandered.
And BRAVO on the guide!! It is a magnificent tome. Your greatest effort ever, thanks so much, inspiration has returned.
|
|
Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
|
|
Sorry Randy, now your just a climbing mortal. By the way a moto ride in Baja is never silly. This was last saturday! 100 miles of riding deserted beaches and we didn't see anyone else. When was the last time you could say that about Josh or just about any climbing area for that matter.
|
|
de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
|
|
That's what I'm talkin' about!
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
A lot of people really stepped up to the plate to make these new series of guides possible; anything that is right about it (them) is because of people like DE, TG, Dimes (and a lot of other people --some on this forum)..... and even the gracious Dr.F were kind enough to help clear things up.
Not to say riding moto-cycles is silly, just missing this to ride moto-cycles is. The beaches will always be there, this is a one off.
BTW, there are a number of places I've been over the last couple years in Josh where you never see anyone and the climbing is too good to believe.
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
Never seen another sole when out at this formation and the climbing is pretty sweet too:
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
Speaking of Last Unicorn, I remember when we first stumbled across this formation, to our addled brains, it looked about the size of the South Face of Half Dome. Upon closer inspection, it experienced a classic case Incredible Shrinking Josh Syndrome (ISJS).
Check out Route D. The traversing gap between the 1st "x" and 2nd "x" is the famed DE runnout.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
i notice in your pic last unicorn is up to 11a now? i think it was 10d last time i checked (mid-80's)?? you're disappointing me, sketch. josh is alla bout sandbags, dontcha know??
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
|
|
How odd, cuz Dr. Sketchy is one of the top sandbaggers of all time!
"Let the slander begin".....
|
|
todd-gordon
climber
|
|
Maybe Tapes thought D E E and crew were climbing gods when he first met them... but Tapes was stronger and bolder then most climbers of the day......when I climbed with Tapes, he did the rad leads and I took the top-rope.....(Damn... another person to add to my list I was a sub-man for.....)
|
|
todd-gordon
climber
|
|
If Dr. F. wants to add a bolt or two to his OWN first ascents to make them so they are not ankle breakers.... good on him.....HIS call...(Not yours.....)....now about bolting The Edge.....I don't think so........Unless Tobin were still with us and HE decided that is what he would like the route to morph to.......good on HIM.....(Sorry.. aint' gonna happen...)
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
i got my crowbar sharpened and i'm ready to fulcrum any interloper steel right outta tha sacred monzonite.
if i had to hang it out there, then by god so will these punk gym-rat sport-climber weenie roast wannabes.
the 70's are dead. long live the '70's.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
Hey Wonderly, good to see the photos from Baja! Man I got some OLD slides of you on a Cook Bro's bike out at josh, riding trials in the CG. Take care bro!
Peace
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
Ron, If you have shots of Dave on his bike -- doing trials stuff all over HVCG -- post up. I doubt I'm the only one who would like to see these.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
Tapes, good to see ya on line dude...
Quiz question: How do you spell sandbagger? R-A-N-D-Y V-O-G-E-L
Yes, RV is the absolute, and final, definition of the word. I know of no other way to say it.
DE, what could you have been thinking? You will be talked about, whether you're there or not. At least if you're there you'll have some kind of chance to defend yourself. Won't help much, but at least you'll have a chance...
I have a suggestion/request. The ethical debate (or troll?) about retro bolting is hardly in the spirit of this thread, and if allowed to continue here it will detract from the experience (at least from my perspective). If someone feels that the debate should be pursued perhaps they could start a seperate thread for the topic. Thanks...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
Largo: Dude, I just know you're lurking out there somewhere... Post us a story. I'm craving a fix. Way, way back you promised us a story about Piasano Overhang that I still haven't seen. So get that uni-wheel turning and post up... Or was that promise akin to the infamous Gramicci promise of an "Exhibit R" post. Which, by the way, I'm also still waiting for... Gramicci???? Promises, promises...
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
|
|
Henman,
Thanks for concurring on the defination of a sandbagger (spelled RV).
As far as Dr. F and his provocation regarding retrobolting, I suspect his brain chemistry is a bit imbalanced these days with too much time spent in the horizontal postion and nowhere near enough time in the vertical. Hopefully that will change after mid April.
"Let the slander begin"....
|
|
Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
|
|
Well this lurker finaly came out of the closet. It took me like three weeks to get through the entire thread. I have to say that it was very entertaining. I've got a personal Largo story since that is sort of how this tread started.
One day at Josh maybe in 79 there was a TR hanging on the Left Ski Track. I don't remeber who led it but John was there among others. I was hanging around hoping for scraps when big John tells me to give it a go. Now at the time I had never done a 5.11 so the pressure was on. John was belaying me with one hand on the rope what we used to call a "Largo belay". I'm up there hanging on for dear life ready to give up, but no, John starts yelling at me to GO GO GO. In the face of this I couldn't just give up and was able to scrape my way through the crux. I wonder how many others have been yelled up a climb by big John over the years. I bet most on this thread have had a similar experience with him.
By the way I think DE's trip has folded due to flaky partners, so expect to see him soon.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!