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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Pads are for pussies. LOL.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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Ah, for the simplicity of a top rope
OK, he spent a lot of time dangling before soloing. But I'm not sure why a stack of pads and an assembly of spotters is somehow stylistically superior to a simple top rope with one companion. But times change.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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all the punts makin fun o' the ladies,
got know clue!
jesus can you imagine a monthly routine of
some such! i am not worthy.
not even close.
i can hardly manage my hourly balance of mind chemicals,
let alone a cycling and
messy reproductive operating system.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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The term "Sport Bouldering" has just entered the lexicon.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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"Did Kauk & Bachar use a pad for Midnight Lightning?"
Bachar wore socks. That was state-of-the-art for crash-pads then.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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Before pads were invented, I busted a leg real good.
What I later learned from some old UIAA charts was that a 150 lb weight fall 10 feet generates 2000 pounds of force.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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I imagine it would have to be very unpleasant to fall on those pads from that height! Give me a top-rope!
Me too. You could easily break your neck even with the pads and guys.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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The photo in the OP has now been credited to Wills Young. Go check out his site for some cool asss shizz.
http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Crash pads are a way better alternative then top roping. Why is this even being discussed? Bottom line, anyone hating on crash pads is probably not a very good free climber.Top roping promotes vaginitis in the balls region of the male body.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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I wonder what people think when they see a couple guys with no shirts and wearing beanies with matresses strapped to their backs running into the woods together.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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What cracks me up are the spotters. Like they are going to be able to deflect someone falling from 20'-50' up without incurring significant injury? There is a lot of force involved with a fall from that far up. The spotters should be wearing helmets.
Been there, done that with a leader who's pro failed while he was 20' off the deck. Spent an afternoon in the hospital in Hemet getting rock chips pulled out of my head.
That may explain some things...
No matter what, if one falls off that big of a high ball, someone is going to be hurting.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Congrats on a great send Alex!
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Well its because you and those who think a like contracted vaginitis. I told you that would happen.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Actually I've seen a few pretty nasty injuries which resulted from relatively short falls onto pads. One guy I saw fell off Three Pigs at Stoney onto two pads stacked. His feet were less than his height from the ground, but he turned an ankle badly. I think his peripheral vision and sense of horizon told him where the ground was, but he hit the pads about a foot sooner and that screwed up his landing.
Landing right on the edge of a pad has done in a few ankles too.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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A few years ago, a woman fell off that traversing section below Horsemen in the Gunks, hit the edge of her pad with her foot and.....
the ONLY thing holding her foot and leg together was a flap of skin. Her foot was very nearly completely severed. BLAAAAHHHH!!!!
A very short fall, maybe 12 feet off ground.
edit: I am glad Alex did not need to find out if the pads would be effective as protection. From the height he got, I think the blood flow would probably be a LOT worse than even on one of my heaviest days...(har har har)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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happie -- I've saw at least three falls end with the ends of both bones sticking out & the foot on only by soft tissue in 2011. All caused by either hitting the edge of the pad or the pad sliding on impact.
Non of these falls had feet above 5 feet
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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//And once again like Levy already mentioned, you should try down climbing some time instead of just being a pansy and jumping onto half a dozen matresses from fifteen or twenty+ feet. Adds another whole element, dimension to "the burn". How do you think JB and all the other Stonemasters, et al got so good? Are you saying they were "probably not very good"?
Someday yer gonna have to down climb suptin and yer gonna soil yer knickers.//
Awesome post. Sometimes dowclimbing is easier (with different moves), and sometimes it sucks ass!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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maybe it's a Spinal Tap thing...
"the bigger the cushion, the sweater the pushin'"
but maybe just climbing the high ball without any pad or top-rope would be the best style,
sorta old school style
and let's loose the "revival tent" scene too, with all those upraised hands, don't you think?
if you have partners, they can help drive you to the hospital if you blow it.
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