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edkeller
Boulder climber
NY
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Jan 18, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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Climbed with Jack and Pam in the Valley/Meadows in the 80s, over a few weeks. Both incredibly special people. Jack treated me [clueless young kid] with great generosity. I guess I was lucky that I met some stellar people back then, he was one. Climbs I remember ... Rostrum... some mellow cragging in Tuolumne... anything we got on was great fun. I knew at the time he was an all-round master, but he was so mellow... I also remember an epic sunday brunch at the Ahwahnee followed by hours of sunday papers and swimming in the river...Now I've not seen him in 25+ years and won't again, and deeply regret not going to Boulder last summer to climb. He was a wonderful, wonderful guy and I send Pam all good thoughts possible. Farewell, RIP.
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JohnHemlock
Mountain climber
CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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A few years ago, in Switzerland. I think he looked serious because they were about out of wine. So we drank all the grappa in the hut.
This spring I skied up the Ruth to take a look at the Timeless Face on Huntington. I about sh#t my pants. There was nothing about that gargoyle that said, "Climb me." I was thankful not to be on that face. But moreso, I was thankful there are people like Jack to remind the rest of us what is possible if you are willing to try.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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Crimper said it well,
He had always a twinkle in his eyes,
Whether it was 3 am and a passing on the trail near Longs Peak with a headlamp on, or in passing in Eldo......
I've thought about this all day today....
And I only knew him as for what he was not him, knowing him as another guide and a climber you always ran into when you were "out and about"
He was and is a legend................
He will be missed like so many others.....
Rest in Peace......
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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Rest in peace, kindred spirit.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Jack was one of my generations' guiding lights. Whatever the medium; rock, ice, mixed, sandstone, granite, bolted limestone, big alpine routes, he loved to climb it all. He was also a people person. When we were filming on the Eiger last spring, Jack was showing a young client the ropes over in Chamonix. The list of routes they had done was pretty impressive, and when Jack and his young buck had a spare day, they did the long drive to Grindelwald just to say hello and spend a few hours
chatting in our chalet. Jack had really set the hook deep: his client was bubbling over with enthusiasm for the alpine world Jackhad given him a solid grounding in. Jack was beaming with happiness. He was doing the work he loved. Without spending the night, guide and client left about mid-evening to make the long drive back to Chamonix.
Jack Roberts was an outstanding role model, a climber to the core and irreplaceable. We have all lost a good friend, but Pam's loss is huge and my heart aches for her. I love you Pam, I love you Jack.
Jeff Lowe
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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As I approached Jeff and Jack talking I could see the intimate conversation unfolding. I kept my distance so that they might continue what turned out to be a very meaningful conversation indeed. jack thanked me later for giving them some time. it was truely my pleasure to see these two alpha males being so warm and open with each other. Not many in their league - elders of the tribe sharing a private moment... I will sorely miss you Jack.
You have literally popped into my life from time to time. In 2009 I got a call from you. I was a bit concerned, as it was usually Pam that would call. We exchanged the niceties and then you asked me exactly where I lived. I told you a small town near McCall Idaho. Knowing that your Mom and sister lived in Idaho, I asked where you were. In McCall you replied. Where exactly I asked. At the hospital. I thought they might know the doula in town. I laughed heartily and since I was also in McCall we met up and you came to hang at my place til you wandered up the road to see your Mom and sis.
Awhile later I was working in Bishop CA. I was driving to the grocery store at about 7am. I passed a coffee shop and barely registered a honda element that looked like yours. Nah - what would Jack be doing in Bishop? Then at the Albertsons, I turn the corner and there you were! Holy Cow! I got you a ticket to the Banff Mtn Film Fest for that night since I had plans to go. We went the next night too. Always so fun to see you Jack, and even more so when Pam is around.
There are few couples that I am honestly dear friends with both husband and wife. I think it was easy because I knew you first Jack. Pam was easy to adopt! I'll never forget Pam and I laying in El Cap meadows for 3 days watching you and John climb El Cap. Meeting you two on top was one of the best hikes Pam and I ever did together.
Christmas dinner at your house a few years ago was equally special. I am so blessed to have known you for so long and in some ways, so well. Thanks for helping me load the van in Bozeman after the ice fest. Perhaps you are the brother I never had... or maybe you were the brother I didn't know I had all along. I love you Jack.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:32am PT
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Jack was a great person. He treated me well, always, and it was
always good to see him. I am sad and disappointed. Yet he lived
such a good life, a rich life. There is much to learn of his
life, as I find in these entries. Jack, my friend. Not long,
and I'll be there.
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Johnny A
Trad climber
Point Richmond, CA
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Jack. I remember him kicking my ass on a road bike in the early 80's; he trained hard for everything. Impeccable preparation.
We did the Salathe in the 90's and I remember him wanting to free this nasty section but his hands and feet were so sore and we were nearly out of food. " let me rest, I know I can do this." Toughest guy I've ever known.
I am deeply saddened by this event and am hopeful for the good that will come of it.
Jack's loyalty and Love for Pam was exemplary; I will miss him and his ethics.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:24am PT
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saw Jack at the ice park the day before this happened, he was busy with clients so I did'nt stop to say hi-kinda bummed now.
Valkeries ride my brother
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 10:16am PT
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This is awful news.
My sincere condolences to Jack’s family and friends.
Guy Keesee
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Double D
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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The first time I met Jack, he was bailing from a storm on El Cap's Tangerine Trip where he and Jim Orey were attempting a new line from the 7th pitch or so. The previous night was filled with lightning and a curtain of rain undulated a couple of hundred feet out from our overhanging perch in bat-hammocks. Augie Klein, Max Jones and myself were preparing for the morning's lead when Jack rapps down to us hanging 15 feet out in the air due to the overhang with an infectious grin and explains the situation: "We've run desperately low on provisions... namely beer... and were wondering if we could tie all of our ropes together to rap off." I gazed down at just a white void beneath us as the storm clouds wrapped us in a grayish-white cocoon and pondered if the four ropes between us would do the trick. "Sure", I said as we hauled him into our belay station.
We hung out and foraged for all the rope we could muster up and chatted excitedly about the amazing electrical light show the night before. I'd hear about Jack and his accomplishments but this guy right in front of me was one of the mellowest, low-keyed guys that I'd ever met. He soon drifted out into the white room, not knowing if the ropes hit the ground or not, with a big smile that made me realize just how cool it was to be able to do what we do here and what a special place this was. The ropes did reach all the way allowing them a successful retreat.
I would run into Jack several times of the next few years in Alaska and Yosemite. He always, always had that beaming smile. We will all miss you Jack, but thank you for the smiles while we had you. May you rest in peace brother.
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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Hi Everyone,
I am putting together the slide show for Jack's memorial service. We'll have an announcement on the time and location soon.
Please send me your best photos along with captions (identify others in the photo, location, date, etc), your full name, and any great quotes and stories. I'll need the photos as jpeg files and they need to be at least 2000 pixels on the long dimension, bigger is better. If you have video, let me know but don't send it yet. I have a preliminary music list from Pam but am open to more suggestions.
Email the photos to me with the subject "Jack photos" at clyde@clydesoles.com. Very important to use that subject so I can keep track of it all.
Thanks!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Sad news! I'd finally met him a few months ago at a Neptunes (Boulder) slideshow after knowing of him since I was 15. I assumed we'd climb together at some point. My condolences to friends and family.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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my condolences to all who shared jack's life. this was in the sky this morning:
the steep remains unmoved
when a soul shifts worlds
more supple is an ethereal sea
bearing waves that wash
at shores of island chains
and the unsheltered harbors
of our tethered hearts
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G&E Buffer
Boulder climber
Santa Monica, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Jack was a dear old friend of mine , back in the 70's in Santa Monica. We worked together at Westridge Mountaineering , and had many a good time together. Will miss him. Condolences to his family and friends.
Dave Hanbury
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 18, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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The tribe will gather Sunday, January 29th at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. Hawaiian shirts are encouraged. More details later.
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R.H
climber
las vegas
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Condolences to the family - I was lucky to climb with Jack BITD -
Jack was a good guy, as skilled and as hardcore as they come.
He will be missed.
Richard Harrison
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Cor
climber
Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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thanks folks for posting all those nice photos!
:(
stay strong everyone!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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Thanks, Steve, for posting this newer thread. Jack is certainly deserving of all the warm messages posted. My condolences to his wife and family, and also to all of us who shared in Jack's life.
I had the experience of going out there on that proverbial limb with Jack back in the Spring of 1976. We decided that Jimmy Dunn's line on the Captain, Cosmos, needed a repeat—since no one had touched it since the FA in 1972. Jimmy had jumared about a 1,000' of fixed line (after his partner was injured) and proceeded to finish Cosmos as a solo FA. At least those were the facts as we knew them...
Not a clue about any beta on the line, no topo, and no equipment list... But Jack was up for this adventure! Carrying twice the gear necessary, and having only hammocks, we headed into the unknown. We swung leads, took many falls, and spent many (uncomfortable) nights together swapping tales and sharing lives. David Bowie was our silent partner.
The going was slow as we followed an uncertain trail. As we began to run out of water, we rationed for another two days. Finally on the eighth day, we topped out, much the worse for wear.
Nothing tests a spirit like eight days of adversity and stress. Jack showed everything he was on that tour. I'm sorry to have lost such a one.
Memories help keep him close...
Robs.
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